Is this valve float?
My tuner is tuning a friend's car with the Greddy turbo kit and has a bit of problem with the tune. He gave me a call and emailed me these dyno runs. I am not home so I can't go over and check. The F20C is stock and has done more than 100,000 km.
The car seems to loose power above 4800 and during vtec. The torque curve belows vtec looks good though
With the AEM

and with the supplied E manage

The blue line is the stock power run. The red is with the Greddy kit.
Both had good Air Fuel ratio of 12
The car seems to loose power above 4800 and during vtec. The torque curve belows vtec looks good though

With the AEM

and with the supplied E manage

The blue line is the stock power run. The red is with the Greddy kit.
Both had good Air Fuel ratio of 12
12.5 afr's are a little lean compared to other tunes i've seen on this kit.
were these afrs with the greddy basemap?
what kind of map did you use for the aem runs?
btw, what aem product were you using?
FIC? EMS? EMS with uego?
i can't imagine the motor being the problem if the car baselined so well.
off hand it almost looks to me like the ECU is pulling timing HARD up top.
it seems relatively common for the ECU and the emanage to fight like this,
but it usually happens right at vtec.
you say he yanked the exhaust and made a pass? this kit is prone to
major creeping if left too free flowing - what exhaust and cat is being used?
unfortunately i think i need a little more info. is there anything else you
can give us to help out?
i would suggest logging via the emanage or EMS to check timing/knocking.
were these afrs with the greddy basemap?
what kind of map did you use for the aem runs?
btw, what aem product were you using?
FIC? EMS? EMS with uego?
i can't imagine the motor being the problem if the car baselined so well.
off hand it almost looks to me like the ECU is pulling timing HARD up top.
it seems relatively common for the ECU and the emanage to fight like this,
but it usually happens right at vtec.
you say he yanked the exhaust and made a pass? this kit is prone to
major creeping if left too free flowing - what exhaust and cat is being used?
unfortunately i think i need a little more info. is there anything else you
can give us to help out?
i would suggest logging via the emanage or EMS to check timing/knocking.
The tuner is a very experienced tuner on this side of the wood. He tuned a lot of high powered vehicles, European exotica and turbo bikes
He also tuned another S2k with AEM in excess of 300rwkw in the past. The dyno used is the latest state of the art 2WD Mainline dyno with all options ticked. AF ratio printed is from the dyno wideband. Dyno and wideband were upgraded only a few months old ago.
Tuner tuned the AEM this morning and ran into trouble and gave me a call. The AEM is not very common over here and it's been a while since the tuner play with it. I am used to the older V1.11 version and could be bit rusty with the latest aem pro version but I did not notice much change. Beside that we trouble shot everything and they were all correct. The tuners tried a few things and it did not response as one would epxected. The car is making good boost, AF ratio is fine and timing is maintained on the log. The engine just doesn't want to make power above 4800rpm and we knew that the f20c LOVE boost
The tuner removed the AEM, replaced it with tthe stock ecu +the supplied emanage and the car did the same thing. You can see that the car made more boost with the aem, so the aem tune probably had a bit more timing than the emanage. If it's a BAD aem tune then one would expect the supplied emanage to be like a lot better. I've asked the tuner to send me a map and I can analyse it a bit more and can post answer to any more suggestions. Knock control was OFF during this tune.
s2kadl, sorry for the not so good new buddy. I did not know that your engine has done a few km as well. If I knew that earlier I would have recommended some new valve springs and AP2 retainers. I don't think it will hurt to replace them now. My friend replace his every 20-30k km on his NA engine. I have a set of AP2 retainers at my engine rebuilder. If you want them urgently let me know. I don't have the oem springs but your local Honda or D&D Motor should be able to get them in.
s2kadl, if it's the valve/retainers problem. I think this exercise has probably saved you an engine
My mate lost 3 engines from retainers problem. He is changing them every 20-30k km now. So changing them now is a pretty good idea.
The tuner has seen this in sort of valve float issues before but just want to double check and asked me to post here. So guys what else could it be? What's common on the s2k? What have we potentially missed?
He also tuned another S2k with AEM in excess of 300rwkw in the past. The dyno used is the latest state of the art 2WD Mainline dyno with all options ticked. AF ratio printed is from the dyno wideband. Dyno and wideband were upgraded only a few months old ago.Tuner tuned the AEM this morning and ran into trouble and gave me a call. The AEM is not very common over here and it's been a while since the tuner play with it. I am used to the older V1.11 version and could be bit rusty with the latest aem pro version but I did not notice much change. Beside that we trouble shot everything and they were all correct. The tuners tried a few things and it did not response as one would epxected. The car is making good boost, AF ratio is fine and timing is maintained on the log. The engine just doesn't want to make power above 4800rpm and we knew that the f20c LOVE boost

The tuner removed the AEM, replaced it with tthe stock ecu +the supplied emanage and the car did the same thing. You can see that the car made more boost with the aem, so the aem tune probably had a bit more timing than the emanage. If it's a BAD aem tune then one would expect the supplied emanage to be like a lot better. I've asked the tuner to send me a map and I can analyse it a bit more and can post answer to any more suggestions. Knock control was OFF during this tune.
s2kadl, sorry for the not so good new buddy. I did not know that your engine has done a few km as well. If I knew that earlier I would have recommended some new valve springs and AP2 retainers. I don't think it will hurt to replace them now. My friend replace his every 20-30k km on his NA engine. I have a set of AP2 retainers at my engine rebuilder. If you want them urgently let me know. I don't have the oem springs but your local Honda or D&D Motor should be able to get them in.
s2kadl, if it's the valve/retainers problem. I think this exercise has probably saved you an engine
My mate lost 3 engines from retainers problem. He is changing them every 20-30k km now. So changing them now is a pretty good idea.The tuner has seen this in sort of valve float issues before but just want to double check and asked me to post here. So guys what else could it be? What's common on the s2k? What have we potentially missed?
Originally Posted by s2kadl,Aug 4 2008, 10:21 PM
I can help with a little info.
AEM EMS 1052U is being used.
Exhaust and cat is stock.
AEM EMS 1052U is being used.
Exhaust and cat is stock.
Read the first greddy questions thread near the end.
Originally Posted by SOHCmyDOHC,Aug 5 2008, 05:40 PM
thats your problem. the greddy kit was tuned/designed for an 80mm or 70mm exhaust and stock cat.
Read the first greddy questions thread near the end.
Read the first greddy questions thread near the end.
Is there anything else guys?
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I had lots of problems with my kit like this until I removed the turbo and installed another. Along the way we tried a bunch of stuff, my car would make 250hp then just die not dip but die.
Check your vtec siliniod
Check your map sensor
Check what manifold you have make sure it's not cracked the old ones did
I would use the e-manage intially to touble shoot I also swithed to an AEM but my problem did not get fixed either
Oil level
Clutch slipping
sounds like your getting some kind of backpressure
with the stock psi and exhaust don't expect much over 250-260 on an ap1 and around 280-300 with exhaust and increasing the boost with other supporting mods
Check your vtec siliniod
Check your map sensor
Check what manifold you have make sure it's not cracked the old ones did
I would use the e-manage intially to touble shoot I also swithed to an AEM but my problem did not get fixed either
Oil level
Clutch slipping
sounds like your getting some kind of backpressure
with the stock psi and exhaust don't expect much over 250-260 on an ap1 and around 280-300 with exhaust and increasing the boost with other supporting mods
Originally Posted by stena,Aug 5 2008, 07:03 PM
really odd.
I wouldnt blame everything on the valves...
you should take the valve cover and chack the valve clearances on the intake and exhaust valves...
odd.
i hope you sort it out
stefce
I wouldnt blame everything on the valves...
you should take the valve cover and chack the valve clearances on the intake and exhaust valves...
odd.
i hope you sort it out
stefce
May be it's an initialise or sensor setup faul
I've never seen or install this Greddy kit personally so I don't know what is really causing the problem. Does the kit come with a map sensor? What brand is this?
Is there a download link for the installation manual for this kit?






