Vortech timing controller.
I've been trying to diagnose the "CEL" that I had for years. Went through books, on-line manual, references, and what ever you name it. Anyway, as I was studying, I realized that in Vortech SC installation guide, the diagram shows that pin #19 (NEP: Engine Speed Pulse) is tapped to yellow/black wire from timing controller yet it is not described in text. People who has installed it on their own, did you leave it out? or connected it?
also, the color of the wire is "BLU"
which is same as pin #28 (APR: Air Pump Relay). if it was crossed, would it caused CEL?
last, timing controller splices TDC1P, TDC2P, & CKPP. in near future, I'm trying to remove timing controller and use e-manage which does not interfere with any of those. is it the right idea to only use e-manage?
CKPP: CKP Sensor P side
TDC1P: Camshaft position (CMP) sensor (top dead center (TDC) sensor) A M side.
TDC2P: Camshaft position (CMP) sensor (top dead center (TDC) sensor) B P side.
thanks,
also, the color of the wire is "BLU"
which is same as pin #28 (APR: Air Pump Relay). if it was crossed, would it caused CEL?last, timing controller splices TDC1P, TDC2P, & CKPP. in near future, I'm trying to remove timing controller and use e-manage which does not interfere with any of those. is it the right idea to only use e-manage?
CKPP: CKP Sensor P side
TDC1P: Camshaft position (CMP) sensor (top dead center (TDC) sensor) A M side.
TDC2P: Camshaft position (CMP) sensor (top dead center (TDC) sensor) B P side.
thanks,
Originally Posted by nibble,Nov 29 2005, 01:09 PM
Anyway, as I was studying, I realized that in Vortech SC installation guide, the diagram shows that pin #19 (NEP: Engine Speed Pulse) is tapped to yellow/black wire from timing controller yet it is not described in text.
The written text is NOT complete and should only be used as a "guide". ONLY the wiring diagram in the manual is complete and only using it will make it possible to connect all the wires that are supplied.
As for your other questions, I don't have any answers for you.
The e-manage timing control isn't a effective as the vortech supplied part. The e-manage timing control quite frankly sucks. You'll have detonation in areas you never had before, even with the entire map zeroed. I used both the e-manage, and vortech controllers. You can eliminate the small "black box" as it's function is the same as the boost cut setting in the e-manage.
If you wire the vortech controller with the written directions, you will have problems. Use the diagram only.
What DTC have you been trying to fix?
If you wire the vortech controller with the written directions, you will have problems. Use the diagram only.
What DTC have you been trying to fix?
ironically... it's P0410 : air pump circuit malfunction. I have not yet checked the wiring. So far, I've replaced air pump relay and other "long" name valve. I've checked wires all over the place. and air pump does work. I need to fix CEL only to pass inspection.
But my main concern is, whether to go with ECU+e-manage or ECU+e-manage+Vortech controller. I like the idea of ECU+e-manage since it sounds simpler. but that's when I thought e-manage and vortech controller controlled same thing. as I'm researching more and more, they don't control same thing... I need more input.
regarding APR: Air Pump Relay, its wire color seems to be as same as NEP: Engine Speed Pulse according to helm's. So I was thinking what if imcompetent mechanic wired a wrong one? I didn't do this myself... So I don't know yet. I'll have to take a look and see if it's the case.
also, can I run (just be able to drive) without vortech controller?
and last, how do I upgrade vortech controller? and how much does it cost and what's being upgraded?
thanks for all your reply.
But my main concern is, whether to go with ECU+e-manage or ECU+e-manage+Vortech controller. I like the idea of ECU+e-manage since it sounds simpler. but that's when I thought e-manage and vortech controller controlled same thing. as I'm researching more and more, they don't control same thing... I need more input.
regarding APR: Air Pump Relay, its wire color seems to be as same as NEP: Engine Speed Pulse according to helm's. So I was thinking what if imcompetent mechanic wired a wrong one? I didn't do this myself... So I don't know yet. I'll have to take a look and see if it's the case.
also, can I run (just be able to drive) without vortech controller?
and last, how do I upgrade vortech controller? and how much does it cost and what's being upgraded?
thanks for all your reply.
The vortech controller can be re-mapped using the R4 software from www.splitsecond.com The unit is vortech specific, supplied by Split Second.
I've used both the timing controllers, the vortech just works better. I had to pull 10+ degrees below 4K rpm to eliminate detonation with the e-manage.
The Vortech controller only pulls 3deg max at 9k. My controller was remapped once by me, to eliminate detonation on winter/oxygenated fuel.
A Plug and play harness makes all the wiring connections much easier to make when using both the e-manage, and the vortech controller.
I've used both the timing controllers, the vortech just works better. I had to pull 10+ degrees below 4K rpm to eliminate detonation with the e-manage.
The Vortech controller only pulls 3deg max at 9k. My controller was remapped once by me, to eliminate detonation on winter/oxygenated fuel.
A Plug and play harness makes all the wiring connections much easier to make when using both the e-manage, and the vortech controller.
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thanks for the info. www.splitsecond.com took me to some other site. but with your information, I was able to find following.
http://www.splitsec.com/products/r4softw.htm
So I presume you've used this to control your timing on your vortech controller.
on the other hand, the wire was in correct position so I disconnected the vortech controller. the symtom remained same...
more and more I look at it, it comes down to bad ECU.
http://www.splitsec.com/products/r4softw.htm
So I presume you've used this to control your timing on your vortech controller.
on the other hand, the wire was in correct position so I disconnected the vortech controller. the symtom remained same...

more and more I look at it, it comes down to bad ECU.
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