I agree... thats a good suggestion, I may do this if I cant figure out before then. I want to replace my injectors and check wideband connections before the dyno day.

 

i can only comment on water. i was originally running tap water. had IAC failure within 1 month. put on a used one still ran tap water. then that one started to act up. bought a brand new one and started running distilled water. at the same time, adjusted some idle stuff for idle offset fuel and ignition things. still working now.

i have heard many problems with peak, but also way more sucess stories.

def need to figure this out though. if your wideband is malfunctioning, need to replace it. but what if its right and your car is freaking out.

at the very least, get it on the dyno and compare your wideband to theres at idle. see if its bouncing around. mine will jump +- a point, but not huge sweeps from rich to lean. idle were talking dipping to 14:0 or blipping to 15:5 ish max but not often. and cruising, its pretty rock solid around 14.7

heck, they might even let you just toss the wideband in your tail pipe and just compare idle numbers. no need to even strap the car down

 

[QUOTE=camuman,Oct 7 2009, 09:26 AM] i can only comment on water. i was originally running tap water. had IAC failure within 1 month. put on a used one still ran tap water. then that one started to act up. bought a brand new one and started running distilled water. at the same time, adjusted some idle stuff for idle offset fuel and ignition things. still working now.

i have heard many problems with peak, but also way more sucess stories.

def need to figure this out though. if your wideband is malfunctioning, need to replace it. but what if its right and your car is freaking out.

at the very least, get it on the dyno and compare your wideband to theres at idle.

 

update:

I swapped in the other injectors and no change, still same issue being reflected on wideband or being with wideband.

I'm thinking the next thing to do is replace the wideband 02 sensor. Any other ideas or confirmation on this before I start spending money on parts I didn't need would be great.

 

do you remember what size belt you use for a 10lb pulley? i believe its a 3.6in pulley. im getting some slip and only see 8lbs.

 

^^^ Infiltrator!! just kidding man, you can "hijack" my thread for a little help I believe 85 is the last digits there for the suggested belt size, id check mine but the numbers stamped on the belt have rubbed off. But a tip for you, you want to use as big of a belt as you can without running out of adjustment room to tighten fully if that makes sense, the reason for this is to get more belt wrapped around the pulley for better traction. If you use a small belt you can just barely fit on (which some try and do for some reason) once you tighten the belt, you will only be covering half the pulley = slips easier.

Now, do you have any suggestions for my situation?

 

sorry for an off topic question.. well i would first replace the O2 sensor and see if the the readings still fluctuate. You said its not showing steady afr's "anymore". how long has it been acting up? Also check your charge pipe and MAP sensor, see if there is any residue from the meth.

P.S. off topic again..
what are your IAT's now with meth/water? i have a non AC CTSC and my temps are 150-165F*. i have the aem meth kit setup but not running yet.

 

You can always test the wide band.

Take your wide band out of the exhaust but leave everything hooked up, then take a rag and spray some brake cleaner on it, turn your key on (to the let the wide band do it's warming and whatnot), now the wide band should read Stoich. After that, wrap the rag (that you sprayed the brake cleaner into) and the gauge should start slowly reading rich. If not, you have a bad WBo2

 

Also you have ot remember, WBo2's are like flurescent (sp??) lights, they just don't die right away, they slowly die away.

AEM sells the replacement for 80 bucks or so.

 

Its been acting up for a month or more but has gotten progressively worse. Thanks for the suggestions there.

I haven't measured my IAT's before or after, I just know its beneficial to a large degree. I'd say being that your non after cooled, especially at 10psi, I would strongly recommend running this, you don't even need to run meth in the mix if you don't want, just water injection would do wonders for you. 165 is nuts, thats like a constant heat soak and added wear and tear on your engine parts, oil, everything. You will probably pick up 20whp by injecting water and increase the life of your motor.