Darton flanged dry sleeves hands down for you. Ill give you the little breakdown of the Darton dry vs darton wet/MID sleeve price comparison.

Darton Flanged Dry (Slip Sleeve) 30++ PSI Rated... Easily able to support 800hp++
$300 Sleeve Cost
$600-800 Machine Shop Charge for balancing crank, wash block, install slip sleeve, hone, final bore per piston manufacturers piston/wall clearance, deck

Darton MID/WET (Full replacement Sleeve) 50psi+ Rated... Able to support 1100hp+
$700 Sleeve Cost
$800-1000 Machine Shop Charge for balancing crank, wash block, install slip sleeve, hone, final bore per piston manufacturers piston/wall clearance, deck

Be careful with sleeves like AEBS. Yes you can get the raw AEBS full wet sleeve kit for $400 or $300 but they come in a rough finish with no coolant jackets. So rather than the $800-1000 in machining costs you could easily spend $1200-1400 to have the AEBS sleeve installed and finish bored. Another option to is send it out to golden eagle for their full wet sleeve. I believe its $1400-1500 for the cost of the sleeve installed. But the pricing I provided keep in mind is with the crank balanced and polished and the final bore. For you I would suggest just go to a repuable local machineshop and ask them if they have a no name brand slip sleeve they could install or go with the name brand darton flanged slip sleeve. You should be able to do a slip sleeve all said and done for under $1000 and reliably handle 800hp+!

Good luck!

 

I've run darton dry sleeves with and with out a block guard.. no problems either way. The darton dry sleeves interlock at the flange which adds some stability over a straight sleeve.

 

Thanks for all the info sounds like you guys are having good results with the darton dry sleeves I think I'm going to give them a try hopefully my motor will last till I get my spare built.

 

For sure man. Yeah the Darton slip sleeve only comes in flanged style to prevent it from dropping. You machine shop should be able to offer a no name brand straight slip with no flange if you want to save $100 or so, but I would recommend just sticking the the darton flanged slip dry sleeve. Personally I do not like block guards unless they are welded in. Just to many potential chances of failure with them dropping or not being properly installed. I mean stock motors are making 700-800whp now with head studs so just doing the iron sleeves you`ll easily be able to support those power levels with more reliability!