S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

What NGK copper sparkplugs?

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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Momentum,May 13 2010, 11:24 PM
Knock or detonation can break the tip off an iridium plug, I've seen it on dozens of cars.
Knock or detonation can knock the bearings out of a motor and cause plenty more damage too.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Momentum,May 13 2010, 07:24 PM
Actually regardless of the tip size the arc will only be between the very sharp corners of the electrode. The only advantage to iridium plugs is longevity. There is no way having a non resistor plug would cause misfiring. Sounds like you might be running to rich? I can't really think of a good reason you would have had a problem with those plugs that was solved (only?) by changing plugs to iridiums... I run non resistor plugs in both my cars like I said and my TA car runs on strait ethanol (which would only misfire worse) and it never misses.

Knock or detonation can break the tip off an iridium plug, I've seen it on dozens of cars.
A thinner electrode allows a spark at less electric tension, thus giving a better spark for a given system strength. Another advantage is that the spark is more consistently placed with a thinner electrode. I highly doubt the engineers would design a sparkplug with a superthin electrode just to risk it breaking. It clearly has some advantages.

As far as knock and detonation goes, I would not consider it a normal condition.
Whats your input on the strength on the ignition system of the s2000 overall? How does it hold up to e100? What powerlevels are you talking about?
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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Here is a list of the NGK spark plugs off their site. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/product_list.pdf
It shows all the resistor and non resistor plugs. If you notice, most lower boosted S's run the BKR7E "non resistor projected", which measures out at 14mm, 3/4 reach and 5/8 hex. So, there are many others with these measurements that are "resistor projected" that will work with our car in the 8 heat range that I think will be better than any of the non resistor plugs. I dont know what ISO is though. I found the part number R7233-8, stock number 5974 but there are others. What do you guys think?
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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Not quite as easily as it can break the tips off the plugs haha, but a valid point. It's almost certain that if you are tuning for the edge that you will knock at some point (hopefully just once on the dyno) but I'd rather know my plugs not going to crack if that happens.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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I've never had that issue with the iridiums, ever. And I've had them in 2 different cars at 700+whp, and one car with 600+whp. Plus a 1000+whp race car....haha

Like I said, everyone has their preferences. You aren't going to find a product on the planet that someone hasn't had troubles with. Finding out the reason why is the hard part.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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I have stock AP1 coils and R5671A-10 plugs and have no problem running at 600whp. I have plans to make more soon and don't foresee the need to upgrade. I still have the plugs gapped as they came out of the box.

ISO is a international standard, not sure how it's relevant though?
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Momentum,May 13 2010, 10:30 PM
I'm not buying the electrical interference from a non resistor plug causing problems with anything but your radio or radar detector (i'm really not even buying the radio). I have 4 separate logging/control modules on my car and a beacon and have NEVER even had a glitch. They all run on a CAN bus which is notoriously susceptible to noise. That said I posted a part number for a 8 heat range copper plug with a resistor above
You need to read this then. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spar...faqresistor.asp

These are the exact problems I was having with the 7173 non resistor plugs.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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I have no idea why anyone would even run a non resistor plug? Why? Especially in a car that came from the factory with resistor plugs.

I understand the difference in materials, heat ranges, etc. That's a legitimate reason to choose a certain plug, but putting non resistors plugs in an S2000 is beyond me??? Hell, it obviously works for some people, but I just don't get why you would choose to go that route?
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Read it, I've probably tuned 100+ cars with non resistor plugs and like I said the only thing I have ever had a problem with is radar detectors. That's not to say it doesn't happen but I haven't come across it yet. I would bet anything that I could tune your car to run perfect on those 7173s. The iridiums or resistors might be covering up some other problem but I guarantee the problem isn't the plugs.

Well for one reason, find me a 10 heat range resistor plug... or a 9 for that matter.

(copper only i would never put an iridium or platinum plug in my car)
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by boostedf22c,May 13 2010, 10:41 PM
I've never had that issue with the iridiums, ever. And I've had them in 2 different cars at 700+whp, and one car with 600+whp.

Like I said, everyone has their preferences. You aren't going to find a product on the planet that someone hasn't had troubles with. Finding out the reason why is the hard part.
Carey, did you re-gap your iridiums or leave it like it was out of the box? I left mine at the .030" pregapped setting. If you did, what did you gap them to? I've heard that gapping the iridiums is very hard and you can damage them. As a matter of fact, Adam Blevins my tuner/friend was tuning a civic the other day with a new set of NGK iridiums and when they went to gap them before putting them in (they were brand new BTW), the iridium tip broke off one of them. Thats messed up. That tells me that it is possible that they can break off into the engine. What do you think?
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