I was just wondering at what point do some of these things need to be upgraded to aftermarket parts...

Just fyi, as far as my power goals, I'm only looking for ~350whp at ~10psi.

1. Headstuds? I've read of people doing 20+ psi on them, but I had a friend who said to go ahead and change them out for ARP ones...
2. MAP sensor? I've read that 10psi is the limit that the stock one will read. Is that correct? If I plan to run exactly 10psi is the stock one ok? Or should I go ahead and upgrade? Any suggestions as to which one, if so?
3. Fuel Pump? Thought I read/heard that 350whp was about the breaking point where the fuel pump would need to be upgraded? What do you think? Guessing a Walbro 255 would be sufficient?
4. Clutch? Haven't really found any concrete evidence as to when the stock clutch needs to be replaced... I'm guessing that I'll be right on the edge with my power levels again... Just had a new disc put in and the PP resurfaced recently though, so I was hoping for the OEM one to last a bit longer... Any (cheap[ish]) suggestions if I need to upgrade it?


Any other things off the top of your head that you can think of that typically go overlooked that might need to be upgraded to support the power gains of a turbo? Already have 750cc injectors.


Thanks,
-Will

 

Search is your friend. All your questions and many more can be answered there...

 

1. Dont touch the motor itself till you want much more power.

2. Change the map sensor, running the OEM at the limit with a turbo is not a good idea because it might creep and the EMS wont see it.

3. Get the Walbro.


4. Get a new clutch in there and safe yourself the headache of taking the turbo stuff apart to change it later.

If your really planning on not going any high then SOS Sports clutch is perfect for you.(Holds 255wtq)

ACT PP w/ OEM disk if you want more head room but the pedal will be heavier.(Holds 380wtq)

CC Stage 4 is pretty lightweight but its a on/off type of clutch.(Holds 400wtq+)

 

I've heard the stock clutch will hold that power for 10,000 miles or so. If you baby it. But like said above. It will be a bigger hassle to change it out later.

 

Leave head studs and MAP sensor for that boost. Change clutch, fuel pump.

 

As far as a clutch goes...

Do NOt get a competition clutch stage 4 or any pucked style clutch. They are completely horrible undriveable pieces of sh*t. (I have one)

Go SOS street or ACT with a stock disc.

 

story I've heard in every "which clutch to buy" thread.

 

My Clutchmaster FX400 (stage 4) clutch (6 puck) feels so close to stock that it's almost scary. Just a slight bit of shuddering when you are feathering out the clutch from a dead stop, otherwise feels like OEM....great for driving in stop and go.

Scott-

 

So ARP headstuds aren't needed for that low of boost? That's good to know I suppose. Just curious why my buddy said I needed them? Extra precaution I guess?

MAP sensor and Fuel Pump shouldn't be too bad. Sounds like those are definitely getting upgraded for the turbo build.


Ugh this is the answer I was dreading the most...

I figured it would need to be replaced. Just such a pain in the ass to do it, and so expensive.

What the part # and or a place I can buy that ACT PP you are talking about? I have seen several different ones. Sounds like that might be the one I go with if/when I do it.

Any other suggestions for clutches?

What about MAP sensors... any suggestions? AEM? GM? Other?

 

Yes, get the ACT setup and take your crank shaft for a walk while you're at it



My CC stage 4 clutch is perfectly fine for DDing, not as easy as stock but def not impossible like some people make it sound.