If I upgrade to the Walbro will I also need a fuel pressure gauge and/or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?

 

I had no issues with it....

 

I think you should start reading around in here a bit. These are all very basic FI 101 questions.

 

nothing wrong with my 6 puck competition clutch here, its a tad hard to drive but u get used to it pretty quick

 

Hey Spec_Ops, that is a very misleading jab at a product that has been re-engineered and works great.

Some owners had problems with the earlier pressure plate and crank walk. Other owners with stock or other clutches also had crank walk. The numbers pointed to ACT and they redesigned their clutch to decrease the thrust on the crank.

Crank walk still continues to be a problem if you ride the clutch or hold it in at stop lights. At traffic lights and so on it is best to be in neutral and not using the clutch. Use the clutch like a switch and limit it's application.

A clutch lockout bypass is a good way to decrease the thrust against the crank. I highly recommend this if you can remember to start the car in neutral.
It takes a few minutes to do.
A simple piece of wire 2" with each end stripped of insulation and tinned is all it takes. Bend the wire in a U shape. Pull the top switch connector from the clutch pedal shaft. There are two switches so get the very top one. Work the connector down to where you can get to it with both hands. Bonus, you won't need to put it back up in that mess. Hold it and plug the wire into the two openings in the connector. You have effectively bypassed the clutch lock out switch and can start the car in neutral. Get used to leaving it in neutral since no clutch action is necessary prior to the start button being hot.

 

I was just wondering at what point do some of these things need to be upgraded to aftermarket parts...

Just fyi, as far as my power goals, I'm only looking for ~350whp at ~10psi.

1. Headstuds? I've read of people doing 20+ psi on them, but I had a friend who said to go ahead and change them out for ARP ones...

->dont touch them. leave stock bolts.


2. MAP sensor? I've read that 10psi is the limit that the stock one will read. Is that correct? If I plan to run exactly 10psi is the stock one ok? Or should I go ahead and upgrade? Any suggestions as to which one, if so?

->Fine with stock map sensor, but if you wanna go above 10 psi later, might be worth it to just change now. aem 3.5 bar works great for me, some run the gm 3bar, some run the SOS oem replacement, one, it really doesnt matter, just pick one.

3. Fuel Pump? Thought I read/heard that 350whp was about the breaking point where the fuel pump would need to be upgraded? What do you think? Guessing a Walbro 255 would be sufficient?

->Walbro 255, stock FPR, no gauge needed.

4. Clutch? Haven't really found any concrete evidence as to when the stock clutch needs to be replaced... I'm guessing that I'll be right on the edge with my power levels again... Just had a new disc put in and the PP resurfaced recently though, so I was hoping for the OEM one to last a bit longer... Any (cheap[ish]) suggestions if I need to upgrade it?

->My stocker wouldnt hold a money shift NA, so my rec is to swap it. some say theres held a long time, well i just dont buy it, or they drove the car like a wuss, IMHO. clutchmasters stage 3, SOS sport clutch, ACT PP with stock disc, all are good and will hold what your asking it too just fine. i run the CM stage 3 so i am biased and say do that one.

dont forget a tuning solution. aem ems and kpro are gangsta

have fun and good luck.

PS, 350whp gets boring

 

I have a rev hard setup. I make 320whp/220tq
Im have
a stock clutch for 6000 miles no slips, Ive taken it down the 1320, and play with it a lot on the weekends. No slips.

Stock map sensor at 9 psi.

wahlbro 255

stock engine + ap2 retainers.

 

And it is kinda boring...