So Im wanting to piece together a turbo kit. Im familiar with boosted civics but this is my first adventure into the s2000 world. With the civic, throw a ram horn on it and its good to go. AC/PS was always out of the question unless you wanted to pay big dollars for a custom manifold.

So what should I be looking for in a manifold? I don't want to break the bank but I want something that will last and allow me to keep PS/AC and won't build up to much heat.

My power goals are mid 500`s. Wont really be needing to go any higher, 600 at the very very very most.

So what are your opinions/thoughts? Im just looking for some general info on manifolds right now as I don't know which turbo I`m gonna go with yet.

 

full race/ full blown/ p fab should solve any manifold concern you have, ram horns, top mounts and sidewinders(front mounts)

 

i suggest learning more about the S2000 before you decide to go FI.

1. ac is on the other side of the block, so it all comes down to bending the ac lines or getting custom lines if you have some sort of manifold that gets in their way.
2. our power steering is electric and built into the rack. if a manifold wasnt "power steering friendly", it wouldnt be steering friendly either.
3. you want 500-600hp but not too much heat?

 

Im not looking for "go learn the car first" type responses. I understand a 500hp application would put off heat but I want to know what type of manifold would put off the least heat. And yes I know the power steering is electric and where it is. I want a manifold that won't require any line modifications to the AC at all.

 

^ You should still take his advice.

He was kindly saying "you don't know enough about this to own a turbo car, if you insist on owning one anyways it'll become a huge headache, you could end up loosing a motor etc., and or waste a lot of money doing things wrong the first time".

The fact that you are asking what manifold would put out the least heat shows you know next to nothing about turbo cars.

You know where the PS is yet you're asking about a manifold that would allow you to keep it? So we're wondering why you're asking this question.......

I'll answer your questions regardless:

1. The manifold that puts of the least heat would be the manifold that is the smallest, meaning a log style, they're less efficient, heavier, however they are stronger and rarely ever crack. I should mention here that if you're worried about heat you should be ceramic coating inside and out of the manifold as well as the hot side of the turbo. This will cut down on heat and spool the turbo faster as well as help with max power and mpg, furthermore it'll resist rust. AFTER ceramic coating you can use heat wrap since rusting won't be a worry due to the ceramic there's no real risk, especially when the temp of the metal itself will be cooler since the inside is coated, you don't have to worry about over-heating the exhaust tube itself nor the hot side of the turbo. Finally add a blanket over the turbo itself, that will make a massive decrease again to temps in the hood area. Best case scenario is a manifold that has the turbo UNDER it rather than on top there's only a few choices for this.

2. Keeping your A/C is easy if you run a log manifold. I ran a log and kept mine where it was, I went to a smaller battery Odyssey PC680MJ so that it wouldn't melt plus it has a MJ (metal jacket), it's a dry cell so it also won't leak nasty acid all over and explode when it gets hot.

3. Power steering isn't an issue regardless.... probably shouldn't even be mentioned in this thread at all.

4. You may want to drive a 400-500hp S2K if you haven't yet, you'll probably find that's PLENTY of power for the S. Also, do keep in mind that around 450hp or so you'll start to run a risk of blowing up the rear differential and have transmission issues in some cases but the differential is at severe risk around 500hp, generally I say it WILL blow up if you drive the car hard at 500. I strongly suggest you limit power to 400hp for at least a while. You can turn the boost up easily later if you deem you want more power.


The things you'll need to know to keep a turbo car alive don't seem to be displayed by you yet, that's why we're trying to push you towards doing a bit more reading in the FI section on setups and such. You'd be smart to spend 3 months minimum reading daily on a few threads in FI before going turbo. It'll save you a lot of headache in the long run and you'll better know which components you wish to use.


That all said, I've got a log style with the turbo below that's been used just a few days if you would like to purchase. It's $200 buckaroos, pretty cheap I think. It puts the turbo DOWN below the manifold instead of on top so you can keep everything stock as it keeps the heat below the car. That's the reason I used it. Most manifold put the turbo on top, right by the battery and A/C etc. If you wanted to make it even colder in the engine bay you could spend $40 bucks and have it ceramic coated. I can refer you some places if you wish but this manifold is small enough and with the turbo below I don't think it matters much.

-Greg

 

x2 to Greg's suggestions.

 

x3 on gregs suggestion

 

great job explaining these types of questions are asked all the time and the answers are always right after them.

Do research!! Find out what works best for you and what will support your goals. If thats SC or TC...400whp to 1000whp...log or not?

 

what manifold on earth would require you to remove the steering rack then??? c'mon man.

so, back to my first statement, "learn about the car before doing anything else." Or, be prepared for a cluster fvck followed by a "part out" thread.

 

Speaking of steering racks, yesterday I swapped mine for an AP1 that I got free from a crash damaged S. 9.2% tighter steering ratio (same as the CR) I can honestly already note the difference. Hurray for a free mod! I should note, to anyone who does this, be sure to use a press to remove the AP1 bushing and put your AP2 bushings in as they are MUCH stiffer thus less mushy feeling. You'll need to mostly trim the bottom lip off the bushings to reinstall them or they'll rip.

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