That's exactly why.

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just guessing . i think the most part giving off hot air more than anything else is the exhaust manifold. if you heat wrap that i think your engine bay temps would go way down. i personally dont like the look of a vented hood. so that is why when i go turbo im wrapping everything up!

 

You should do us all a favor and do back to back data logs with black shroud on. Then off. Then with cooling plate

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What's getting too hot? Coolant temps or iats?

I'm at 12 psi I don't have any issues with coolant or iat's.

Coolant sometimes on the hottest day will go up to 205 or so which isn't an issue.

Intake air temperature goes up to 115-120 in 90 degrees while driving. Stop and go can go up to around 145 or so at most.

 

I have done nothing to lower temps. Stock radiator with both fans on all the time. Oem hood not vented.

I know everyone says get lower thermo, vent hood, bigger radiator but my motor has only given me over heating issues when coolant system wasn't bled properly. Otherwise always good.

 

Water injection lowers my IATs to ambiant, its awesome, and cleans motor

 

I've made some changes to my cooling system i run the novi 1000 comptech 6.5-7 psi larger aftercooler radiator . with stock rad in 100+ degree weather it ran205 -217 water 145-165 intake fast forward now i have a vis vented hood fullblown radiator mishimoto stat and fan switch stock fans with a seal against the rad just did a 265 mile drive in 105 degree heat coolant stayed around 192 intake 130-135 at highway speed in traffic coolant actually drops to 187 intake goes to 145 idling for 3-4 minutes 155but after you get rolling a mile or so intake drops down to135 let the meth kick in and 100f on along pull coolant will get up to 200f but drops back down quick looking to build an air dam behind aftercooler radiator to help cooling at speed will post my findings after but as you can see this combo does work and ive talked to people who track there cars and the stock hood venting doesn't help at speed the more holes the higher the temps if you want to cut your hood stick to the first two holes the windshield is a low pressure area air pushes down in that area which is why the a/c intake is located there the vis hood holes are sloped and air flows out not in streamers have verified this for me my two cents hope it helps

 

Why is that?

I also have a cold air intake for my turbo (aem style) and i have a j's vented hood/ cooling plate (with stock shroud still in place)

What can you guys recommend me? I still seem to suffer from heat soak even with the filter located under the passenger head light...

 

can you install an amuse style heat deflector behind the radiator to shunt some rad heat away for the motor ive heard they work good. someone in the sponsor forums is selling a heat shield you may want to look at . i left the stock air dam in place i think its very effective do you heat soak in traffic/idle or at cruising speed because the inter cooler some times restricts airflow at speed?

 

I continue to have temps of 205-215 in stop & go traffic. I am breaking in the motor so I am not driving it hard. This does not make any sense to me. I hope someone can help me correct the problem. I just rebuilt the engine due to broken top rings in all cylinders (predetionation).
Here is my setup:
Vortech SC w/ 4.0" pulley
AEM EMS v2
ID 1000's
Comptech exhaust (no header wrap or ceramic coating).
Supertech head
Benson sleeved block
CP pistons 10:1
Brian Crower rods
ACL bearings
Offset cam keys by sideways
Dual Pass radiator with 2 SPAL fans (found here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/940.../page__st__100 )
Evans Coolant
Foam around the radiator to eliminate air bypassing.
Cleaned & combed AC condensor
SOS heat exchanger
stock hood (I really don't want to vent my hood if I can avoide it. I want a sleeper look & trying to cover up the sound of the SC)

With all this "cooling overkill" I still have temps up to 212*F at stop lights @ ambient 91*F & the AC on. On the highway my temps stay around 200*F. I am not even driving it hard! As soon as the engine is broke in, I am planning on installing the 928 Motorsports upgraded impeller and a 3.8" pulley & having it retuned. I am hesitate to even consider this until I get my temps under control.

I found an old thread on the AEM ECT calibrations being off but I think this is only for AEM series 1's. If the calibrations are also off on the Series 2, then perhaps this is my problem.

Any ideas why my temps are so high?

Any help or experience would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!