These temps seem fine to me. Your stop&go traffic temps are probably more regulated by the temperatures at which the fans kick on and off. So they probably turn on at around 212-215 and shut off at 205.

As for your highway temps, is your car an AP1? If so, I think the thermostat is set at 95C, which is 203F. So it's right where it's suppose to be. AP2s have a 90C thermostat.

 

spdracerut is right if you have stock thermostat and fan switch thats where they run if you put a 170f fan switch and spoon thermostat with a 1.3 bar cap id bet you drop 15-20 degrees in temp i found my car has more torque and less bog my two cents

 

You think we could put a spal fan on our intercooler to help with intake temps in traffic?

Sent from my Galaxy S II using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for your suggestions. I do have an AP1 so perhaps an AP2 thermostat will help get a jump start on keeping it a tad cooler during stops with the AC on.

I beleive my fans are set by the AEM EMS. They both come on around 195*F. So when temps start to climb up to 215 it is apparent that they can't keep up. I think a shroud that pulls all the air coming through the radiator & through the fans might help. If you see the link on my radiator I have holes in the fan mount shroud where air is not getting pulled through by the fans. My concern with a solid shroud would be reduced airflow on the highway since the air would have to be directed out of the holes where the fans are located. Thoughts?

I do have a 1.3 bar radiator cap but I don't think this is helpful because I am running Evans coolant. The boiling point for Evans is ~350*F so I will never build the type of pressure you would typically see with a water based coolant. Evans suggests a 0 or 7lb cap.

By the way, what temp is considered too hot??

 

Thanks for your suggestions. I do have an AP1 so perhaps an AP2 thermostat will help get a jump start on keeping it a tad cooler during stops with the AC on.

I beleive my fans are set by the AEM EMS. They both come on around 195*F. So when temps start to climb up to 215 it is apparent that they can't keep up. I think a shroud that pulls all the air coming through the radiator & through the fans might help. If you see the link on my radiator I have holes in the fan mount shroud where air is not getting pulled through by the fans. My concern with a solid shroud would be reduced airflow on the highway since the air would have to be directed out of the holes where the fans are located. Thoughts?

I do have a 1.3 bar radiator cap but I don't think this is helpful because I am running Evans coolant. The boiling point for Evans is ~350*F so I will never build the type of pressure you would typically see with a water based coolant. Evans suggests a 0 or 7lb cap.

By the way, what temp is considered too hot??
[/quote]

Hmm... and you're running the dual fan setup? That should be plenty.... As for a typical aftermarket shroud that blocks all the airflow which is not covered by the fan, yes, horrible idea in my opinion. I think it's questionable if it even helps when you're stationary, but I'd say it is definitly hurting when you're moving as that much of the radiator is blocked off. Are you fans all the way up against the radiator?

My car is still NA, so there are a couple major differences between your setup and mine. You have the SOS heat exchanger which causes to issues: it's like another resistor in an electrical circuit which reduces your airflow (voltage) and you're also pulling heat off of it which means warmer air is hitting your radiator. Also, all the supercharger related stuff sitting behind the raditor impedes airflow itself.

I'm also running an oil cooler, so the radiator/coolant system doesn't have to deal with cooling the oil down either.

For coolant temps... well, since you're running Evans with a 350F boiling temp, you don't have to worry about it boiling. On my CBR 600RR motorcycle, the fans don't kick on until the coolant goes over 220F. I seem remember the old C4 Vettes use to run around 230F. Based on those, 220F is a bit toasty but nothing really to worry about. I would cringe at 230F and definitely have the heater on, but I don't think you'll blow anything up. 240F would probably be all the bells and alarms going off. Most car temperature gauges don't move the needle in the range of 170F-230F. That's how my old Nissan was. The following link shows the stock AP1 gauge not lighting the next bar until 235F:
http://modifry.com/products/ect/ap1.htm

So it seems to me the OEMs don't start moving the temp needle until 230-235F which would indicate to me that they are not concerned with temps until that point.

 

Thanks for your suggestions. I do have an AP1 so perhaps an AP2 thermostat will help get a jump start on keeping it a tad cooler during stops with the AC on.

I beleive my fans are set by the AEM EMS. They both come on around 195*F. So when temps start to climb up to 215 it is apparent that they can't keep up. I think a shroud that pulls all the air coming through the radiator & through the fans might help. If you see the link on my radiator I have holes in the fan mount shroud where air is not getting pulled through by the fans. My concern with a solid shroud would be reduced airflow on the highway since the air would have to be directed out of the holes where the fans are located. Thoughts?

I do have a 1.3 bar radiator cap but I don't think this is helpful because I am running Evans coolant. The boiling point for Evans is ~350*F so I will never build the type of pressure you would typically see with a water based coolant. Evans suggests a 0 or 7lb cap.

By the way, what temp is considered too hot??
[/quote]

Hmm... and you're running the dual fan setup? That should be plenty.... As for a typical aftermarket shroud that blocks all the airflow which is not covered by the fan, yes, horrible idea in my opinion. I think it's questionable if it even helps when you're stationary, but I'd say it is definitly hurting when you're moving as that much of the radiator is blocked off. Are you fans all the way up against the radiator?


I'm also running an oil cooler, so the radiator/coolant system doesn't have to deal with cooling the oil down either.
[/quote]

I am running the two SPAL fans. The pics in the thread only show one as most beleived that that would be plenty. With the supercharger, I went ahead and installed the smaller fan just in case. Glad I did!

I agree with your comments on the solid shroud.

My fans are about 0.25" off the back of the radiator.

So, I should be OK with temps below 230*F. I hope that is the case as I can't afford another mistake.

I have a Setrab oil cooler but I have not ran the lines & hooked it up. I went with Robrobinett.com set up as I already had the oil cooler (previously was the heat exchanger used for the SC). So, that is another factor that I am trying to pull air through the restrictions of the oil cooler. I will hook it up in the near future & see if that helps (or hurts) my coolant temps. I will post an update.

Does anyone have any feedback to the AEM EMS series 2 temp calibrations? I am hoping that someone will tell me that they are the same as the series 1 EMS and they are incorrect. Anyone??

 

The ect cal is still incorrect for the v2. Highest I saw my coolant temps this summer in 115F heat was around 205F in traffic and 194F on the highway w/ AC on. I'm also running AEM series 2 w/ updated ect cal.

 

I would try to put the fans up as close to the surface of the radiator as possible. Or find some material to make a mini-shroud to take up the gap. Maybe some rubber strips? Something that can handle the heat. Maybe some of that silver tape stuff they use on the exhaust tubes of heaters/furnaces.

I can think of a couple ways to test your temperature calibration. Get another standalone gauge, like a simple autometer. Or, if you have access to another AEM temp sensor, put it in a beaker/mug/glass with water on a hot plate with a thermometer in it too. This way, you don't have to undo the sensor in the radiator and drain all the coolant. Just plug in the new sensor into your AEM, turn on the power and see how the temperature reads compared to a regular therometer while sitting on the hot plate to heat up the water.

 

If you guys wanna take a look here http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...ction=category they have some crazy heat resistant products. 2000 degree wraps even 3000 degree Kevlar wraps if your feeling froggy. I'm probably gunna pick up some heat tape for my ac lines but contemplating that 3000 degree wrap for the mani . Just food for thought
-Chris

 

If that is true then I actually might be having problems of running too cool!!

Recall that I bought the spare tire from you in Tulsa. I live in Edmond, OK. Perhaps we can get together & take a look at my set up & update the AEM IAT & ECT calibrations? I don't know a thing about my AEM set up.