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Any different if you were to install just one or two bulbs rather than a 12 inch strip of leds?
If you were to do the install by the book you could run a resistor in line. However the LEDs draw such little current that it really isn't necessary. I personally didn't use any.
Originally Posted by HannibalACP82,Dec 21 2010, 07:49 AM
If you were to do the install by the book you could run a resistor in line. However the LEDs draw such little current that it really isn't necessary. I personally didn't use any.
Hmm I've been reading quite a bit on installs and most of them say that if you don't run the correct OHM resistors, you risk burning out the LED?
Don't the LEDs come with resistors meant for a 12v system?
And if you aren't supposed to use jumpers…then what are to use.
Back in the day I would just wrap the bearded wire around the fuses and jam them back in.
I'm sure that wasn't the best thing to do though
You should find a switched ignition wire or a empty wire slot on the fuse block. You should solder to a good connection and tape the wires with electrical tape.
We know this is an old thread but we've been offering kits for the s2000 to do footwell lighting for a while now. Another s2ki member pointed us to this thread to purchase so we'll add the info here.
So I have been dying to put footwell lights in my S2K for awhile now. I know it can be a little "ricer" but I really thought it would be a nice touch and I hated how dark it got in the cabin at night...coffin like.
I was inspired by a few shots I had seen of other S2Ks as well as cars in general with footwell lights and decided to give it a go.
My buddy Jimmy is always willing to jump in on any project and gave me the encouragement and help to get the project off the drawing board and turn it into reality.
I ordered 2 12in strips of Red LEDs (have a red/black interior and I didn't want to be blinded at night by white LEDs) off of eBay for a total of $4.99 shipped from Hong Kong. They arrived an 5 months to the day later we finally got around to installing them. .
Stage 1 was to wire the lights together and then wire them to a cigarette adapter so we could plug them into the outlet in the S2K. This was relatively easy to accomplish but meant I needed to plug/unplug the lights to turn them on and off and left wires running from the footwells along the center console to the plug.
Stage 2 was the wire the lights directly to the fuse box as well as wiring in a switch so that I could turn the lights on and off (since we were wiring into a fuse that was always on).
Stage 3 (which still is to take place) is to wire the lights to a 3 way switch and then to the remote lock/unlock system. The goal is to have the lights come on whenever I unlock/lock the car and then go off when the door is closed or the system times out respectively. The 3 way switch comes in to play so that when I want to leave the lights on I can toggle it and over ride the system. That will be a winter project!
As for the specifics I wired the lights together and ran the wire above the radio. I took off the knee pads in the car (trim piece below and to the left and right of the center tunnel) and ran the wire up over the radio and behind the knee pads.
On the drivers side the lights are ziptied to the foot heater by running a zip tie around the LED strip and through one hole and out another hole in the heater.
This keeps the lights out of the way but I can easily access them if I need to change/remove the LED strip. As for the passenger side Jimmy did his best Tim Allen impression and we zip tied the LED strip to a thin piece of aluminum. We then removed the lower dash trim piece and drilled small holes into two tabs that are part of the plastic trim hidden behind the removable piece. This allowed us to mount the aluminum with the LED strip to the car via a set of screws and then hide everything behind the removable trim piece. Both placements allowed for an even distribution of light without being able to see the actual LEDs short of crawling in the car upside down.
We placed quick disconnects between the strips and the wire as well as between the wires on either side of the radio/center console so that we don't have to remove the entire installation if we find ourselves changing things out/modifying further/etc.
Finally (per Jimmy's suggestion) we used a fuse jumper from Radio Shack.
They run like 8 bucks and this allowed us to tap write into the fuse box rather than splicing to a live wire. We also ran a ground up to same grounding bolt the fuse box uses. I just loosened the ground bolt a half turn and slid an extra ground wire into place.
For now I only have my pictures of the install once completed but I can do back and take pictures of everything else if people show an interest.
I did something very similar as well but i also added a single led light into the door release cup, I had many people have a difficult time finding the release at night so this was a cool easy upgrade.
12-21-2010, 05:49 AM
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