ACT clutch kit
04-06-2015, 11:27 PM
#11
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Got them! 
ACT - Heavy duty Pressure Plate
ACT - Full Face Organic Friction Plate (with springs)
I haven't decided on the flywheel yet. (mainly because of the extra cost)
I believe that is going to help me in the track to shave a few extra 10ths of a second if it makes the car rev easier..
Will decide in the next week or so
Again, thanks guys
ACT - Heavy duty Pressure Plate
ACT - Full Face Organic Friction Plate (with springs)
I haven't decided on the flywheel yet. (mainly because of the extra cost)
I believe that is going to help me in the track to shave a few extra 10ths of a second if it makes the car rev easier..
Will decide in the next week or so
Again, thanks guys
04-07-2015, 06:03 AM
#12
I track my car about 10-15 days/year and drive it very little on the street now. It's an AP1, no aftermarket mods to engine, sees redline at nearly every shift, I heel-toe on the downshift.
This weekend, something went badly wrong in the clutch arena, so it's coming out soon. I'll likely go with ACT wear parts recommended in this thread with one possible exception.
Based on the symptoms, I strongly suspect it's the pilot bearing, and this would be the second time it's happened in 2 years, so I want to avoid a third instance.
1) Is there something that I could be doing as a driver that would cause this?
2) I know more about industrial machines than cars, so I revert to that. In general, bearings are very generic and in too many cases are are purchased based on their size and price only. However, some high speed equipment specifies a specific brand (Fafnir comes to mind) because that is the only bearing tested to meet the demand of that application.
Are most people using whatever bearings come with the kit? Do they come from reputable bearing manufacturer? If not, is there a specific pilot bearing that is recommended?
This weekend, something went badly wrong in the clutch arena, so it's coming out soon. I'll likely go with ACT wear parts recommended in this thread with one possible exception.
Based on the symptoms, I strongly suspect it's the pilot bearing, and this would be the second time it's happened in 2 years, so I want to avoid a third instance.
1) Is there something that I could be doing as a driver that would cause this?
2) I know more about industrial machines than cars, so I revert to that. In general, bearings are very generic and in too many cases are are purchased based on their size and price only. However, some high speed equipment specifies a specific brand (Fafnir comes to mind) because that is the only bearing tested to meet the demand of that application.
Are most people using whatever bearings come with the kit? Do they come from reputable bearing manufacturer? If not, is there a specific pilot bearing that is recommended?
04-07-2015, 07:12 AM
#13
Pilot bearing or release bearing, Will? The pilot is the one pressed into the flywheel. The release is the one that the fork slides back and forth to release the pressure plate which allows you to shift.
04-07-2015, 07:22 AM
#14
Well either, but we suspect the pilot bearing to be the failure. The clutch pedal moves freely, but the layshaft appears to continue spinning after the clutch is engaged, indicating the pilot bearing has seized. Until we get it open, it's all speculation.
ACT sells kits with and without bearings in case customers want to get their own bearings. I'd like to get a reputable bearing. Based on what I've read about Exedy, the one I have now was "dumped" from China. (For the record, I didn't chose Exedy; Chris Smith Racing put it in there without asking - I specifically requested OEM.)
I should ask ACT why people buy their own bearings - to cut cost (lower quality) or increase the quality above kit offer. I really don't know what they include - could be Timken or SKF for all I know.
ACT sells kits with and without bearings in case customers want to get their own bearings. I'd like to get a reputable bearing. Based on what I've read about Exedy, the one I have now was "dumped" from China. (For the record, I didn't chose Exedy; Chris Smith Racing put it in there without asking - I specifically requested OEM.)
I should ask ACT why people buy their own bearings - to cut cost (lower quality) or increase the quality above kit offer. I really don't know what they include - could be Timken or SKF for all I know.
04-07-2015, 08:42 AM
#15
Oh yeah, I forgot that you have the Exedy clutch in the car right now. A lot of things in the Exedy kit are known to fail, especially the release bearing and the pressure plate.
With as much as you track your car Will, I would highly suggest swapping over to the OEM stuff now while you have the trans down. Do you know what was replaced when they replaced your clutch with Exedy components? Did they replace the flywheel?
Basically you need to end up with an OEM flywheel w/ OEM pilot bearing pressed in it, OEM release bearing, OEM friction disc, and either the OEM pressure plate or the ACT HD pressure plate if you want more holding power. Last we talked there was a glimmer of hope that you would go FI in the distant future. In that case, I would say go ahead and get the ACT HD pressure plate and put it in now. Then you'll be set for any FI you decide to do in the future.
Obviously if the previous shop didn't change out the flywheel, it should still be OEM and be good to stay. You can have it resurfaced if you feel inclined.
Edit - I will also mention that some people have had issues with the ACT release bearings similar to the issues observed with the Exedy release bearings.
Edit #2 - This time around you really should do the clutch job yourself. You really become more intimate with the car throughout the process, lol. And I'm only a few minutes away if you need help.
With as much as you track your car Will, I would highly suggest swapping over to the OEM stuff now while you have the trans down. Do you know what was replaced when they replaced your clutch with Exedy components? Did they replace the flywheel?
Basically you need to end up with an OEM flywheel w/ OEM pilot bearing pressed in it, OEM release bearing, OEM friction disc, and either the OEM pressure plate or the ACT HD pressure plate if you want more holding power. Last we talked there was a glimmer of hope that you would go FI in the distant future. In that case, I would say go ahead and get the ACT HD pressure plate and put it in now. Then you'll be set for any FI you decide to do in the future.
Obviously if the previous shop didn't change out the flywheel, it should still be OEM and be good to stay. You can have it resurfaced if you feel inclined.
Edit - I will also mention that some people have had issues with the ACT release bearings similar to the issues observed with the Exedy release bearings.
Edit #2 - This time around you really should do the clutch job yourself. You really become more intimate with the car throughout the process, lol. And I'm only a few minutes away if you need help.
04-07-2015, 11:42 PM
#17
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Good info guys!
Drove one more s2000 yesterday (JDM version, MY2004, facelift, AP1, f20c, 247ps)
bone stock except the ACT pressure plate + ACT 6pad friction plate..(OEM AP1 flywheel)
I really liked how accurate and aggresive the gear changes were..BUT i cannot see how this is good for the car..i.e. too much stress on the gearbox and LSD..
I would stay away from this one as it seems to aggressive for my taste..
Drove one more s2000 yesterday (JDM version, MY2004, facelift, AP1, f20c, 247ps)
bone stock except the ACT pressure plate + ACT 6pad friction plate..(OEM AP1 flywheel)
I really liked how accurate and aggresive the gear changes were..BUT i cannot see how this is good for the car..i.e. too much stress on the gearbox and LSD..
I would stay away from this one as it seems to aggressive for my taste..
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