Advice on Clutch Replacement
12-10-2019, 07:35 AM
#1
Advice on Clutch Replacement
Hi guys
I'm still a newbie to the motor so I'm turning here for some advice. I'm trying to replace the clutch through out bearing and pressure plate.
I've been told OEM is the best way to go up to 350 hp.
The car is slightly modified as I have run a different header
3" exhaust a 70mm skunk 2 tb and I ported the intake and polished it. I'm about to add a flex fuel sensor to the mix
Some id injectors and a fuel rail. I'm currently using an Aem v2.2 ecu.
I mentioned these because I want to know what's the best clutch to use I'm not going to be using forced induction but I want a lasting clutch.
I forgot to mention I'm using a 10lb flywheel
Can you guys ascertain whether it's best to replace everything with oem parts or is there a trusted kit I can purchase to install.
Kindly advise
I'm still a newbie to the motor so I'm turning here for some advice. I'm trying to replace the clutch through out bearing and pressure plate.
I've been told OEM is the best way to go up to 350 hp.
The car is slightly modified as I have run a different header
3" exhaust a 70mm skunk 2 tb and I ported the intake and polished it. I'm about to add a flex fuel sensor to the mix
Some id injectors and a fuel rail. I'm currently using an Aem v2.2 ecu.
I mentioned these because I want to know what's the best clutch to use I'm not going to be using forced induction but I want a lasting clutch.
I forgot to mention I'm using a 10lb flywheel
Can you guys ascertain whether it's best to replace everything with oem parts or is there a trusted kit I can purchase to install.
Kindly advise
12-10-2019, 01:10 PM
#2
oem throwout bearing
oem (branded FCC) clutch disc
oem throwout bearing guide
oem pilot bearing
oem clutch fork (if required)
oem slave boot (if required)
oem pressure plate - or ACT HD pressure plate if you want a firmer option
oem AP1 flywheel - or ACT Pro-lite flywheel as a lighter option
I believe this is the consensus from most on s2ki for cars that aren't boosted
oem (branded FCC) clutch disc
oem throwout bearing guide
oem pilot bearing
oem clutch fork (if required)
oem slave boot (if required)
oem pressure plate - or ACT HD pressure plate if you want a firmer option
oem AP1 flywheel - or ACT Pro-lite flywheel as a lighter option
I believe this is the consensus from most on s2ki for cars that aren't boosted
The following 2 users liked this post by clio:
HawkeyeGeoff (12-11-2019),
Jin_Muff (12-11-2019)
12-10-2019, 02:11 PM
#3
^this, but add in a release bearing guide from Honda and some HT urea grease.
If you go with ACT, I would strongly suggest a clutch interlock bypass and would also suggest only pushing the clutch long enough to shift (don't sit there at a stoplight with the clutch pushed in).
And with "OEM", I would suggest sourcing all your parts from a Honda dealer. Not "OEM" aftermarket.
If you go with ACT, I would strongly suggest a clutch interlock bypass and would also suggest only pushing the clutch long enough to shift (don't sit there at a stoplight with the clutch pushed in).
And with "OEM", I would suggest sourcing all your parts from a Honda dealer. Not "OEM" aftermarket.
The following users liked this post:
Jin_Muff (12-11-2019)
The following users liked this post:
Jin_Muff (12-11-2019)
12-10-2019, 06:17 PM
#5
12-11-2019, 05:48 AM
#6
Thanks
oem throwout bearing
oem (branded FCC) clutch disc
oem throwout bearing guide
oem pilot bearing
oem clutch fork (if required)
oem slave boot (if required)
oem pressure plate - or ACT HD pressure plate if you want a firmer option
oem AP1 flywheel - or ACT Pro-lite flywheel as a lighter option
I believe this is the consensus from most on s2ki for cars that aren't boosted
oem (branded FCC) clutch disc
oem throwout bearing guide
oem pilot bearing
oem clutch fork (if required)
oem slave boot (if required)
oem pressure plate - or ACT HD pressure plate if you want a firmer option
oem AP1 flywheel - or ACT Pro-lite flywheel as a lighter option
I believe this is the consensus from most on s2ki for cars that aren't boosted
Will order all OEM this afternoon
Was thinking of the act pressure plate but was also advised it's much more aggressive.
In that light I'll get everything OEM
12-11-2019, 07:28 AM
#7
I wouldn't call the ACT pressure plate aggressive.
Mine actually felt softer than the stock PP I had before, but that was mostly because a completely dry release bearing guide.
I've tried comparing the pedal effort on some friends cars with stock parts and it's very hard to notice any difference though.
If you are going forced induction in the future you should definitely get the ACT HD PP now and save massive amounts of wrenching time.
If you are going to do the install yourself check out the amazing guides done by DIYGuys on youtube.
Here is the first one
Mine actually felt softer than the stock PP I had before, but that was mostly because a completely dry release bearing guide.
I've tried comparing the pedal effort on some friends cars with stock parts and it's very hard to notice any difference though.
If you are going forced induction in the future you should definitely get the ACT HD PP now and save massive amounts of wrenching time.
If you are going to do the install yourself check out the amazing guides done by DIYGuys on youtube.
Here is the first one
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12-15-2019, 04:32 AM
#8
I think Billman gets a clutch replaced in a couple of hours, while you wait. if that. Amazing.
12-16-2019, 01:57 PM
#9
Often overlooked part on the transmission bellhousing, the clip and spring the fork sits in. It's cheap and should also be replaced. I think that as long as the clutch isn't slipping the pressure plate is reusable, it should outlast the disk. The Honda grease is critical, and it's critical that you pack grease into the groove on the release bearing. Be generous, that is the grease that the release bearing slides on for the next 10 years. It's also a good idea to replace the boot that covers the fork, that boot is keeping dirt, and water from getting in there and mixing with the grease.
It's really annoying that the grease drying up is the main culprit in wearing the clutch. This is because it becomes easier to gall the guide sleeve increasing friction , and when the grease dries out, and the guide starts warping it puts more wear on the bearing, which requires more force to depress the clutch, which stresses the hydraulics of the clutch and accelerates master and slave leaks and wear.
If I were doing a clutch on these cars, I would only change the pressure plate if it's slipping bad in which case the pressure plate is likely full of hot spots and should probably be changed as well. I would resurface the flywheel, by hand if necessary, or replace it with a lighter one if you have an AP2. Definitely change the disk, the two bearings, the stuff the bearing interacts with(fork pivot, spring, hanger, release guide). Make sure you keep the little plate that comes with the flywheel, that spacer is critical. Definitely replace the boot for the fork to preserve the grease, and while you have the trans off, inspect the rear main seal, if it's leaking change it, if it ain't, leave it be.
As far as clutch hydraulics, you'd only have to remove the clutch delay valve if you have an AP2 and are going to a lighter flywheel.
It's really annoying that the grease drying up is the main culprit in wearing the clutch. This is because it becomes easier to gall the guide sleeve increasing friction , and when the grease dries out, and the guide starts warping it puts more wear on the bearing, which requires more force to depress the clutch, which stresses the hydraulics of the clutch and accelerates master and slave leaks and wear.
If I were doing a clutch on these cars, I would only change the pressure plate if it's slipping bad in which case the pressure plate is likely full of hot spots and should probably be changed as well. I would resurface the flywheel, by hand if necessary, or replace it with a lighter one if you have an AP2. Definitely change the disk, the two bearings, the stuff the bearing interacts with(fork pivot, spring, hanger, release guide). Make sure you keep the little plate that comes with the flywheel, that spacer is critical. Definitely replace the boot for the fork to preserve the grease, and while you have the trans off, inspect the rear main seal, if it's leaking change it, if it ain't, leave it be.
As far as clutch hydraulics, you'd only have to remove the clutch delay valve if you have an AP2 and are going to a lighter flywheel.
The following users liked this post:
mhm4000 (03-15-2020)
12-17-2019, 05:37 AM
#10
Often overlooked part on the transmission bellhousing, the clip and spring the fork sits in. It's cheap and should also be replaced. I think that as long as the clutch isn't slipping the pressure plate is reusable, it should outlast the disk. The Honda grease is critical, and it's critical that you pack grease into the groove on the release bearing. Be generous, that is the grease that the release bearing slides on for the next 10 years. It's also a good idea to replace the boot that covers the fork, that boot is keeping dirt, and water from getting in there and mixing with the grease.
It's really annoying that the grease drying up is the main culprit in wearing the clutch. This is because it becomes easier to gall the guide sleeve increasing friction , and when the grease dries out, and the guide starts warping it puts more wear on the bearing, which requires more force to depress the clutch, which stresses the hydraulics of the clutch and accelerates master and slave leaks and wear.
If I were doing a clutch on these cars, I would only change the pressure plate if it's slipping bad in which case the pressure plate is likely full of hot spots and should probably be changed as well. I would resurface the flywheel, by hand if necessary, or replace it with a lighter one if you have an AP2. Definitely change the disk, the two bearings, the stuff the bearing interacts with(fork pivot, spring, hanger, release guide). Make sure you keep the little plate that comes with the flywheel, that spacer is critical. Definitely replace the boot for the fork to preserve the grease, and while you have the trans off, inspect the rear main seal, if it's leaking change it, if it ain't, leave it be.
As far as clutch hydraulics, you'd only have to remove the clutch delay valve if you have an AP2 and are going to a lighter flywheel.
It's really annoying that the grease drying up is the main culprit in wearing the clutch. This is because it becomes easier to gall the guide sleeve increasing friction , and when the grease dries out, and the guide starts warping it puts more wear on the bearing, which requires more force to depress the clutch, which stresses the hydraulics of the clutch and accelerates master and slave leaks and wear.
If I were doing a clutch on these cars, I would only change the pressure plate if it's slipping bad in which case the pressure plate is likely full of hot spots and should probably be changed as well. I would resurface the flywheel, by hand if necessary, or replace it with a lighter one if you have an AP2. Definitely change the disk, the two bearings, the stuff the bearing interacts with(fork pivot, spring, hanger, release guide). Make sure you keep the little plate that comes with the flywheel, that spacer is critical. Definitely replace the boot for the fork to preserve the grease, and while you have the trans off, inspect the rear main seal, if it's leaking change it, if it ain't, leave it be.
As far as clutch hydraulics, you'd only have to remove the clutch delay valve if you have an AP2 and are going to a lighter flywheel.
Hopefully I receive my items soon so I can start to reassemble the setup. I also have to open the tranny to reseal it as I found some leakage. I'll take a close look at the video posted above to get a better guide.