Brake Upgrades
I'll x2 everyone saying to get a dedicated setup for the track. Even the Carbotech Bobcats I recommend aren't good for the track, only suitable for street/auto-x because of good cold temp performance; they'll cook off fast under track conditions.
Go w/ Carbotech race grade pads + second set of OEM/cheap blank rotors for the track. That way your street and race pads are properly bedded on their own rotors.
Go w/ Carbotech race grade pads + second set of OEM/cheap blank rotors for the track. That way your street and race pads are properly bedded on their own rotors.
Originally Posted by Hero,Sep 25 2009, 09:47 AM
I'm mostly street with plans to start the occasional track day in the spring and some spirited canyon driving.
you might want to do some research in the racing and comp section of the forum
Originally Posted by AnthonyD1978,Sep 29 2009, 06:38 PM
spirited canyon driving will test your brakes more than many tracks will....
Originally Posted by iLuveketchup,Sep 29 2009, 03:04 PM
Do you run on oval tracks? No canyons, not even the Dragon, will test your brakes more than a road course.
Originally Posted by AnthonyD1978,Sep 29 2009, 02:38 PM
spirited canyon driving will test your brakes more than many tracks will....
OP: I agree with most of the other people. It's best to just have one set of pads/rotors for the track and one for the street.
I got a set of ebc blanks for www.autoanything.com for like $40something and $30something respectively. That's cheap. Just find some cheap blank rotors. You'll be destroying them anyway.
I have Carbotech XP10s and XP8 for the track.
I use my stock rotors/pads on the street.
It really doesn't take too much time to swap pads back and forth and it's totally worth the non-compromise. Quiet, low dust pads for every day use. Squeaky, dusty, but very high temp resistant pads for track use.
I use Wilwood 570 for fluid. I get it for like $7 a bottle. It's good for about 3-4 track days depending on how far off they're spaced.
I think I'm using russell lines? It's the ones that are teflon coated. Make sure you get the coated/lined brake lines to keep the stainless mesh intact.
The brake's job is to stop the tire. So after that, make sure you have the tires capable of stopping the car well and making good use of the pads.
Originally Posted by B serious,Sep 29 2009, 06:09 PM
lol...what? Initial D lied to you, man. This is totally untrue.
OP: I agree with most of the other people. It's best to just have one set of pads/rotors for the track and one for the street.
I got a set of ebc blanks for www.autoanything.com for like $40something and $30something respectively. That's cheap. Just find some cheap blank rotors. You'll be destroying them anyway.
I have Carbotech XP10s and XP8 for the track.
I use my stock rotors/pads on the street.
It really doesn't take too much time to swap pads back and forth and it's totally worth the non-compromise. Quiet, low dust pads for every day use. Squeaky, dusty, but very high temp resistant pads for track use.
I use Wilwood 570 for fluid. I get it for like $7 a bottle. It's good for about 3-4 track days depending on how far off they're spaced.
I think I'm using russell lines? It's the ones that are teflon coated. Make sure you get the coated/lined brake lines to keep the stainless mesh intact.
The brake's job is to stop the tire. So after that, make sure you have the tires capable of stopping the car well and making good use of the pads.
OP: I agree with most of the other people. It's best to just have one set of pads/rotors for the track and one for the street.
I got a set of ebc blanks for www.autoanything.com for like $40something and $30something respectively. That's cheap. Just find some cheap blank rotors. You'll be destroying them anyway.
I have Carbotech XP10s and XP8 for the track.
I use my stock rotors/pads on the street.
It really doesn't take too much time to swap pads back and forth and it's totally worth the non-compromise. Quiet, low dust pads for every day use. Squeaky, dusty, but very high temp resistant pads for track use.
I use Wilwood 570 for fluid. I get it for like $7 a bottle. It's good for about 3-4 track days depending on how far off they're spaced.
I think I'm using russell lines? It's the ones that are teflon coated. Make sure you get the coated/lined brake lines to keep the stainless mesh intact.
The brake's job is to stop the tire. So after that, make sure you have the tires capable of stopping the car well and making good use of the pads.
so you are saying the SS brake lines are worth it then? that was my next question.
and here's my assumption ( please correct if wrong ):
the car has 40k miles on it. I will just keep the stock rotors for now for the street ( maybe turn them ), but get new blanks dedicated for the track and replace as necessary.
does that sound right or should i look into replacing the rotors right now also for the street?
If the rotors for street driving are fine, leave them alone. They're not cheap rotors, so why spend the $$. My car has 34k and I have a few track days on my street rotors. They're a little F'ed up, but they're fine. I'm pretty sure they're the originals from 00.
My track rotors are just blanks dedicated for the track.
The SS lines are a nice touch. They're only $100ish...so why not? It gave me an excuse to flush the fluid anyway.
My track rotors are just blanks dedicated for the track.
The SS lines are a nice touch. They're only $100ish...so why not? It gave me an excuse to flush the fluid anyway.








