Brake Upgrades
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From: OC, California
Originally Posted by B serious,Sep 29 2009, 07:09 PM
lol...what? Initial D lied to you, man. This is totally untrue.
OP: I agree with most of the other people. It's best to just have one set of pads/rotors for the track and one for the street.
I got a set of ebc blanks for www.autoanything.com for like $40something and $30something respectively. That's cheap. Just find some cheap blank rotors. You'll be destroying them anyway.
I have Carbotech XP10s and XP8 for the track.
I use my stock rotors/pads on the street.
It really doesn't take too much time to swap pads back and forth and it's totally worth the non-compromise. Quiet, low dust pads for every day use. Squeaky, dusty, but very high temp resistant pads for track use.
I use Wilwood 570 for fluid. I get it for like $7 a bottle. It's good for about 3-4 track days depending on how far off they're spaced.
I think I'm using russell lines? It's the ones that are teflon coated. Make sure you get the coated/lined brake lines to keep the stainless mesh intact.
The brake's job is to stop the tire. So after that, make sure you have the tires capable of stopping the car well and making good use of the pads.
OP: I agree with most of the other people. It's best to just have one set of pads/rotors for the track and one for the street.
I got a set of ebc blanks for www.autoanything.com for like $40something and $30something respectively. That's cheap. Just find some cheap blank rotors. You'll be destroying them anyway.
I have Carbotech XP10s and XP8 for the track.
I use my stock rotors/pads on the street.
It really doesn't take too much time to swap pads back and forth and it's totally worth the non-compromise. Quiet, low dust pads for every day use. Squeaky, dusty, but very high temp resistant pads for track use.
I use Wilwood 570 for fluid. I get it for like $7 a bottle. It's good for about 3-4 track days depending on how far off they're spaced.
I think I'm using russell lines? It's the ones that are teflon coated. Make sure you get the coated/lined brake lines to keep the stainless mesh intact.
The brake's job is to stop the tire. So after that, make sure you have the tires capable of stopping the car well and making good use of the pads.
you guys must do really short canyone runs or don't drive them hard. you might be stopping from less high speeds in canyons, but you're on the the brakes more often and the lower speeds keep the brakes from cooling down.
OP this is my personal setup that works very well for me.
Fluid: Motul RBF - hard to find anything better. There is no reason to change this fluid more than once a year or every 7-10 track days or so. It does not matter how far the track days are spaced.
Pads: Project Mu999 (front), Hawk HP+ (rear). Mu999 is a full track pad that is perfectly streetable with no noise. I run these on the street every day.
Rotors: OEM. Will probably upgrade to Mu 2 piece rotors soon. OEM is fine, but I want to save weight. Not sure why some people go through rotors so fast. Think it's from a combination of type of pad and driving style. Heard of some people going through rotors every other track day. That should not be happening. Fast on the brakes, fast off the brakes. Don't ride them (pussy brake).
Lines: OEM. Will probably go to SS lines soon.
The brakes job is to stop the rotor. It's the tires job to stop the car.
OP: go do some research in the Racing and Comp section of the forum if you're serious about brakes.
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Originally Posted by nmrado,Sep 25 2009, 05:48 PM
Carbotech XP10s front, XP8s rear
Carbotech blank rotors
Brembo LCF 600+ brake fluid (change it about once a year)
Street driving:
OEM pads
OEM rotors
Carbotech blank rotors
Brembo LCF 600+ brake fluid (change it about once a year)
Street driving:
OEM pads
OEM rotors
Use the same except I go with Motul RBF600. I like it better than Brembo LCF due to the higher Wet Boiling Point.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Aliso Viejo
i shot gtmotoring an email a little bit ago about their SS brake lines.
http://www.gtmotoring.com/product_info.php...products_id=167
there was a group buy price listed for $110 shipped posted back on 9/4/09; looking into see if it's still valid.
Stainless steel teflon coated brake lines
http://www.gtmotoring.com/product_info.php...products_id=167
there was a group buy price listed for $110 shipped posted back on 9/4/09; looking into see if it's still valid.
Stainless steel teflon coated brake lines
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From: Arizona PHX
I was going to make pretty much the same thread since im planing on running the car at the track this winter but glad you did. So from what im concluding is OEM rotors and pads are just fine for the street (makes sense) and for the track (every once in a while not pro racing) OEM rotors and racing pads such as Carbotech XP10s front, XP8s rear? Also bleed them with a higher boiling temp fluid? I just dont want my brakes to fade on me once im hauling ass and result it in a crash or something along those lines...
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 344
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From: Troy, Michigan
9kred,
Might I suggest using Carbotech XP8's for both the front and the rear if your using stock tires or similarly equipped summer tires. From all my research at Carbotech and Science of Speed (SOS) everyone told me that XP10s in the front are overkill on street tires, but work well with R-compound tires. Plus XP8's front and rear are cheaper than XP10s.
I recently bought a set of XP8's front and rear and attended two track days with them and they were awesome....exactly what I wanted. My car is pretty much stock except for minor aesthetics and brake pads/fluids.
Christopher
Might I suggest using Carbotech XP8's for both the front and the rear if your using stock tires or similarly equipped summer tires. From all my research at Carbotech and Science of Speed (SOS) everyone told me that XP10s in the front are overkill on street tires, but work well with R-compound tires. Plus XP8's front and rear are cheaper than XP10s.
I recently bought a set of XP8's front and rear and attended two track days with them and they were awesome....exactly what I wanted. My car is pretty much stock except for minor aesthetics and brake pads/fluids.
Christopher
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From: Arizona PHX
Thank Chris, and yes im running pretty much stock tires. Yea I just realized SOS sells these both the XP10s and XP8s and they are local to me here in AZ. I'll probably talk to them about it and pick some up. Im glad you brought that up because they sure arent cheap, XP10s just the fronts $171!
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From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
XP10s are not overkill on street tires. I have Direzza Sports. I've run 3 track days now with my XP10/8 combo. For R-comps, you'd probably want XP12/10. People were talking about fading the XP10 up front with R comps.
The car's got ABS. You've got nerve endings in your foot. Modulate the brakes properly with your foot. The ABS will help you out every now and then when you need it.
The XP10/8 combo I use is VERY easy to modulate after the pads are fully bedded. Just like with ANY other brake pad, you have to train your foot to threshold brake and stay out of ABS as much as you can.
The simple Forumla for success:
-BLANK OEM replacement rotors.
-Race pads of your choice that aren't absolutely idiotic. (i.e. don't use XP16s with street tires)
-Good fluid with a higher boiling point.
-SS lines are a nice touch.
Done.
The car's got ABS. You've got nerve endings in your foot. Modulate the brakes properly with your foot. The ABS will help you out every now and then when you need it.
The XP10/8 combo I use is VERY easy to modulate after the pads are fully bedded. Just like with ANY other brake pad, you have to train your foot to threshold brake and stay out of ABS as much as you can.
The simple Forumla for success:
-BLANK OEM replacement rotors.
-Race pads of your choice that aren't absolutely idiotic. (i.e. don't use XP16s with street tires)
-Good fluid with a higher boiling point.
-SS lines are a nice touch.
Done.
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