Bullet proof diff.
I've done a search of the forum and can't find anything on making the diff stronger. Is there just not much support for it, or does no one really care to do it? I was thinking it's just a matter of getting strong gears and strong axles. What do y'all think?
You basically have three options that don't require custom fab.
1. InlinePro conversion to use a Nissan R200 diff.
2. Full Blown conversion to use a Ford 8.8 diff.
3. Puddymod upgraded OEM diff
None of the above will be cheap, but all are proven to work pretty well.
That should be enough to get you started.
1. InlinePro conversion to use a Nissan R200 diff.
2. Full Blown conversion to use a Ford 8.8 diff.
3. Puddymod upgraded OEM diff
None of the above will be cheap, but all are proven to work pretty well.
That should be enough to get you started.
I'm in the same situation, one buddy is telling me to upgrade my stock diff to puddymod status and the other one is telling me to do the R200 conversion.
Haven't really done much research for the R200 conversion. 
No need to even think about the 8.8 for me, max hp I'll be making is about 400 whp/250 wtq.
Haven't really done much research for the R200 conversion. No need to even think about the 8.8 for me, max hp I'll be making is about 400 whp/250 wtq.
I'm in the same situation, one buddy is telling me to upgrade my stock diff to puddymod status and the other one is telling me to do the R200 conversion.
Haven't really done much research for the R200 conversion. 
No need to even think about the 8.8 for me, max hp I'll be making is about 400 whp/250 wtq.
Haven't really done much research for the R200 conversion. No need to even think about the 8.8 for me, max hp I'll be making is about 400 whp/250 wtq.
My Stage 2 option will hold that without issue and it's half the cost of a convention
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I just read the thread on the PuddyMod diff, it looks like the only difference is the solid (non)crush ring, and cryo treated gears, as well as deburred and polished gears. Unless they are using different materials, or different heat treatment processes, how is this any different than if I sent my stock diff internals out to have them cryogenically treated and deburred? If that's all it is, then I'll save about $2000 and just do that myself, you know?
Edit: I'm not trying to say the PuddyMod diffs aren't worth it, I am just the curious type and want to know what the real difference is, and what makes a stronger diff stronger.
Edit: I'm not trying to say the PuddyMod diffs aren't worth it, I am just the curious type and want to know what the real difference is, and what makes a stronger diff stronger.
Yeah but rear ends are tough to do. It requires very specific torques, tolerances, etc. Plus you dont have a warranty if you do it yourself lol. Its a bit more than people expect. Puddymod is a great option, but a rule of thumb... if you drive like a dick, you will break shit.



puddymod isn't going to support 900whp very long lol puddymod is good for 600whp