Venomous S

Hey there s2k'ers,
I never thought I'd be posting about asking for help on literally 4 bolts per side on the EVS tuning bumpsteer kit by Evasive . But I do have some concerns to make sure these arms get properly installed, as I don't seem to be able to make sense how they get torqued down with the few issues I see. I'll explain. Look at pics. First one with 1 washer. (realized arms are upside down after I photoshopped labels) I installed the arm as parallel as possible by installing it as close to the bottom of taper bolt. Then, the washers on the other side. So my issues are:
a) With 1 washer, you can see there's a space so this would obviously create a situation where arm can move up and down and vibrate, don't think that would be good.
b) So if you look at picture with 2 washers, I installed the 2 washers to fill in space to make arm tight against washers and bottom of taper bolt. So, my issue now is when I go to torque down the castle nut, the torque is against the washers and not the body of the bolt. In other words, the washer's face goes beyond the body of the bolt so the nut is literally torqueing down against the washer. If I swap the big washer and put it between the heim joint and the bolt , then use the small washer then the bolt will probably clear the wheel which makes sense here but I'm still torqueing the nut against the small washer. So is this ok? is that by design? I know it's not a lot of torque but even at 36-43Ft lbs. of torque I'm worried about nuts deforming and splitting.
c) Third issue is that I can't achieve 36-43ft. lbs. of torque if the castle nut does not line up with the bolt hole to put cotter pin through. I'm exceeding those torqiue numbers and this will torque washers even more.
d) Fourth issue is that the bolt seems to be too long for my 16" stock wheel. If I swap washers as discussed in letter b then I'll probably clear the wheels. I'll be drag racing the car and I actually was going to go down in wheel size to a 15" wheel. I could probably cut down the bolt but do I really wanna do that, don't know.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Venomous S

125 Views but no input. I guess no one has installed these before.

Kyle

Did you contact EVS about the installation? Did they come with any instructions? I'm sure if you contact Evasive they'll help you regarding what to do with the washers.

As far as the torque is concerned, you'll be fine exceeding the spec in order to get the cotter pin in. What other choice do you have? Or perhaps the washers are there so you can achieve that torque? I wish I could help you out more man, I'll be installing the HardRace ones myself in the coming months, but I'm not sure if they're exactly the same as yours.

And yeah, these are typically used on lowered cars to fix the geometry, aka not stock wheels lol. Couldn't see an issue with cutting the threads down to clear, so long as you have full engagement of the castle nut and cotter pin installed....I don't think too much time was put into designing these for smaller diameter wheels, I don't see too many s2000s as drag cars lol.

flanders

I'm not sure I fully understand the problem here.
But from experience installing Hardrace arms (which btw seems much better designed than these) you always need to use both washers.
Small one on one side and large one the other, might work with both on one side but I doubt that would be a good idea.
I can use stock 16" wheels with my Hardrace arms but I don't think 15" would be possible.

Venomous S

I contacted Evasive already. Whoever came on the phone just didn't sound like he was giving me a confident answer so...
Exceeding the torque is not so much my concern as the standard way of tightening down cotter nuts is just that, you exceed it if you need to meet the slot. But my concern is more letter B-pressing being applied to washer specifically.
I'm using stock wheels for now as I don't have my custom wheels yet. The only choice is to cut down bolt which I did already.
You're right, these arms weren't made with smaller wheels in mind.
There are actually quite a few s2000's set up for drag racing.
Thanks for your input

Venomous S

With hardrace you can already clear 16" wheels so I guess these arms were made with small wheels in mind.
I do have the one large washer on one side and small on the other side. That's the way makes more sense but when the castle nut tightens down it puts all that torque on the washer specifically, that's what I mean. Not quite sure if that's by design, must be I guess. Just never seen full torque applied to a washer like that. I would've thought the width of the washers would've been made to match the spacing between the base of the castle nut and the face of the heim joint.

_valtsu_

That's the way it's meant to be. Torque applied to both washers and heim joint. Those washers easily handle that kind of torque.

In this case just small difference in washer thickness or bolt length would cause rattle. There is always manufacturing tolerances.

Venomous S

Ok, cool, thanks for confirming!

HMFIC

man, I wish the people selling their cars would just put the price in the title along with the information instead of having to click on it.

Makes it much quicker.

zze86

Let me guess....On mobile version, you went to respond it and somehow autoscrolled you to some random semi-related post...