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Old 02-08-2009, 06:35 PM
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[QUOTE=s2k aok,Feb 7 2009, 10:23 AM] if you have a higher geared differential you will.
Old 02-08-2009, 07:01 PM
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clutchmasters stage 3 with ap1 flywheel here holds 349whp/239wtq just fine

hit up vividracing.com if your interested and ask for jon.
Old 02-09-2009, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Feb 7 2009, 03:27 AM
Dont need one with just 7 psi on an SC, when you have plans for 10-12psi then consider it a possibility.

A lite weight flywheel will significantly increase your stock clutch holding ability and longevity as well just fyi.


hopefully you meant you won't need one right away.

You can run an OEM clutch, but it will wear much faster.







Hardtop Guy has a package for SC cars check his site out.
Old 02-09-2009, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by NVMY4N,Feb 9 2009, 03:22 AM


hopefully you meant you won't need one right away.

You can run an OEM clutch, but it will wear much faster.







Hardtop Guy has a package for SC cars check his site out.
Not my experience its all relitive, to the OP's situation which started this thread, its just not an issue.

Now if you have say a turbo that makes 275tq at 3-5rpm and has wide sticky tires that grip then you will need a clutch. But to the OP and the typical moderate to high SC car its not a factor unless the car is abused. A simple rule of thumb for you, hp and trq at a higher rpm will put less strain on a clutch then one that has to be relied apon to get out of the hole with all that low rpm power. At speed you have enertia working for you to relieve some of the stress on the clutch. Like most things performance related to cars, there is quite a few factors involved in clutch life and holding copacity then just the clutch friction disc.
Old 02-09-2009, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Feb 9 2009, 12:21 PM
Not my experience its all relitive, to the OP's situation which started this thread, its just not an issue.

Now if you have say a turbo that makes 275tq at 3-5rpm and has wide sticky tires that grip then you will need a clutch. But to the OP and the typical moderate to high SC car its not a factor unless the car is abused. A simple rule of thumb for you, hp and trq at a higher rpm will put less strain on a clutch then one that has to be relied apon to get out of the hole with all that low rpm power. At speed you have enertia working for you to relieve some of the stress on the clutch. Like most things performance related to cars, there is quite a few factors involved in clutch life and holding copacity then just the clutch friction disc.
while this may be true. heres my take. if you do the clutch later, theres more to uninstall to get the clutch out once the charger is in there. its an easier job to swap before the charger. also, lets say you can not accurately define your driving style. you pop the charger on, and bam, clutch slip all the time becuase you drive hard. now you face a longer clutch install and trust me, its long enough without extra things in the way.
Old 02-09-2009, 10:28 AM
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[QUOTE=camuman,Feb 9 2009, 11:21 AM] while this may be true.
Old 02-09-2009, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Feb 9 2009, 02:28 PM
I havent done a clutch on this car so I cant say from experience whats involved in this particular case, but typically just losening the engine mounts to be able to jocky the engine slightly if neccisary is all you need, why would the charger matter... even if you had to pull out the intake box/tube... so what? Your droping the trans not the engine so why would the SC matter?
thats just it my friend, you HAVE to lower the motor/subframe 3" inorder to be able to gain access to the upper tranny bolts and get tranny off. if you pop your hood, you will notice the motor/tranny is set way back in the engine bay, while this is awesome for weight distribution, its awful to remove! you have to remove the alternator, header/testpipe or cat, disconnect the ac compressor. disconnect the steering shaft etc etc. if you have a blower in the way, that is gonna have to come out so motor can drop down. dude, it drops low!

heres a pic when i did mine...











just look how low the subframe is! in the shop manual this is the way to do it, and after doing it, i dont see how you can do it anyother way. the bolts up top are impossible to get too without it lowered.

so to recap, yeah the motor does drop to get tranny out
Old 02-09-2009, 11:25 AM
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^^^ that bites!
Old 02-09-2009, 02:07 PM
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I had a KW high boost SC kit installed about a year ago and have not stopped smiling since. At the time of install, I also installed the Clutch Master stage 3 clutch (FX300), and the Clutch Masters flywheel. I have had no problems.

The clutch is a bit grabby and the motor revs up very quick now, but I quickly became accustomed to it. Now if I can only figure out how to get my rear tire wear under control .....

Jim
Old 02-09-2009, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Feb 8 2009, 09:35 PM
The gears would allow the engine and clutch to spin with less resistance... so the gears should increase clutch life, unless of course if the clutch has already been abused by your shifting antics. No clutch likes to be slipped between shifts, when you have allot more power and don't engage your clutch foot fully before stomping on the gas in the next gear it will eventually give out on you. Ap2 guys with the CDV's need to especially watch this. My stock clutch has 110k on it.

Think of the taller stock gears of 4.10 like as if the motor/clutch is trying to engage and spin axles with flat tires compared to something as easy to get moving as 4.77's. Think about it. Wide heavy tall tires will also be more detrimental to clutch life. I have lightweight 245/35/17 tires which also equate to a 4.30 gear ratio so both of these factors are likely helping me with my clutch. Id say its safe to say since my car spins the tires in second gear at 60mph that my stock clutch is holding fine. I guess if your running the stock flywheel and tire sizes or even moving up to the 255 wide in the rear like many do.... that will put more strain on the clutch. I've got an 8pound flywheel with stock clutch and my tire sizes going for me. I would expect my stock clutch with my set to hold 12psi without slippage. I wouldn't want to put some heavy clutch on my car and ruin the feel and shift ability if not absolutely necessary
decreasing gearing may increase life and put less stress on the clutch but increasing gearing? with 4.77 gearing ratio it's like shifting the gearing down, second gear pulls like first gear, third gear pulls like second gear, and so on. i'm talking about shifting while moving of course.

from a stop i can see how increasing gearing causes less slippage for smooth take offs and perhaps prolonging life but it's meaningless if you're burning it when shifting or breaking it loose at higher rpm's. when i spoke of "slipping" i meant that the clutch cannot hold for the power level. not that i am intentionally trying to slip the gear during shifts (much like when i'm creeping from a stop in first gear in traffic).

when i started, at first the clutch was grabbing. slowly as the weeks went by it grabbed less and less. then it would burn for 3-5 seconds when doing full throttle acceleration. for a month, ended up having to slow shift so the rpm's would drop before shifting. now it's breaking the clutch loose shortly after vtec (7000 rpm) in first. the super accelerated wear is due to the supercharger (non-ac 5.5 psi) & gearing (4.77s) & wide tires (255s) and not my "clutch antics."

now you're assuming the stock clutch will hold 12 psi? that seems to be pushing it a bit far. maybe with a different stronger pressure plate or maybe with a 3.50 differential i could see it working. approaching the 400 whp mark on a stock clutch assembly would require extreme delicacy and ruin the enjoyment of the increased power level.



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