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cold air intakes

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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 03:59 PM
  #11  
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get this

http://cgi.ebay.ca/2000-2008-Honda-S2000-I...1QQcmdZViewItem

it's so bling!
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 05:37 PM
  #12  
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I always find it a laugh reading through those ebay sales...

is there any specific budget that you are wanting to keep to?
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 06:52 PM
  #13  
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I am just curious... Is there anything negative to expect from the Injen CAI? I haven't heard anyone really talk about it. Meanwhile, the PWJDM intake appears to have really good gains compared to every other intake on the market. But, PWJDM = $1000. Injen = $250.

Sorry to thread jack...
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 06:58 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ninety2slow,Aug 9 2008, 06:52 PM
I am just curious... Is there anything negative to expect from the Injen CAI? I haven't heard anyone really talk about it. Meanwhile, the PWJDM intake appears to have really good gains compared to every other intake on the market. But, PWJDM = $1000. Injen = $250.

Sorry to thread jack...
don't forget those passwordjdm intakes are expensive mostly due to the material they are made of. including the process of creating the mold itself, and from then on all the steps of treating the cf layer itself. (not to forget it blocks out alot of space for cooling underneath the hood)

if you live where there's alot of floods, then it's a good idea to stay off driving on a CAI.

supposedly, the idea of a CAI is to draw in cool air. unfortunately it does this by having a longer pipe.
a RAM's pipe is shorter, unforunately it draws in warmer air.

longer pipe = more vaccum needed to draw in new air.

there's always a compensation.

you can experiment this on your own..
take a soda and drink it with a small diameter straw.
then drink it with a large boba straw.
feel the difference?

now take the small diameter straw, cut it in half and drink the soda
then take the boba straw, cut it in half and drink the soda.

it's the classic way of how straws work. you create a vacuum in the straw (example: combustion chamber needing more air for combustion) then the air outside of the straw pushes in.
the shorter and wider, the easier it is to replace the vacuum with new air.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 12:23 AM
  #15  
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I have found the K&N to seal out hot air better than the other intakes that are located in the engine compartment. The other solution is to use the longer tube and get out of the engine bay. In my view the K&N is the best solution. It is protected in the engine bay and if adjusted carefully it takes air from above the radiator. Just my 2 cents.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 01:50 PM
  #16  
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The Injen one actually looks very nice. Its one of very few you can get in black. plus it fits 06 newer unlike AEM
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 01:54 PM
  #17  
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K&N FIPK or F5
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 05:09 PM
  #18  
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im planning to get the Fujita F5 .. but unless i get the paranoia of hydrolocking out of my head, i might just end up with the K&N ... ive heard good things about the Fujita .. but is hydrolocking fact or fiction?? how hard or easy is it to 'hydrolock'?
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 06:15 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by mjb120,Aug 10 2008, 05:09 PM
im planning to get the Fujita F5 .. but unless i get the paranoia of hydrolocking i might end up with the K&N ... ive heard good things about the Fujita .. but is hydrolocking fact or fiction?? how hard or easy is it to 'hydrolock'?
very real!! When I worked at Toyota I had two Celicas with AEM's on them bothe lock up the motors. It was pretty cool actually. I have the piston and a spark plug that got fused together and a twisted and broken rod.

Very real possibility..
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 06:28 PM
  #20  
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if you wanna keep the intake pipe short you could go for a bonnet feed....direct to the intake? such as the impreza's do with their engines... (obv no scooby intake on an s2k but just the general principle)
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