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Cooling mod

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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 07:55 AM
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Default Cooling mod

Hey guys I'm thinking about doing a cooling mod. When I had my 3 dyno runs at innovative my first run was the best of 231 and then the rest where 227 and then 226. So I'm safe to say the first run was the best because of the car beeing a little cooler. I was looking into either a thermostat or a fan switch. I don't know which one would be better. I don't want any drastic chance in tempature. Like maybe 10 degrees less. Any thoughts and reccomendations?
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 08:20 AM
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Do neither of those. The engine will make more power at 200 F than it will at 180 F. It's important for coolant to be cool enough, but being too cold reduces power and efficiency while also increasing wear.

Something that I believe would be more beneficial is a higher pressure radiator cap, Redline Watter Wetter, and an 80% water / 20% antifreeze coolant mix. These should help maintain a more consistent coolant temp.

BTW, none of these things would really change your experience on the dyno. Not only do radiators work poorly with just a fan blowing on them, but the engine coolant doesn't really get sufficient flow at idle.
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 08:23 AM
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BTW, if I had an AP1, I would swap out the thermostat with a late model AP2 thermostat, which is supposedly 10 degrees HOTTER.
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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Why would u want it hotter?
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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most modern engines make the most power above 200 degrees, what the exact number is can be highly variable. Heat=power as long as your aren't detonating and as long as the pcm isn't pulling timing. With the factory tune you will likely make less power at a cooler engine temp on a street driven car. If you were able to modify ignition timing you could take advantage of a cooler engine and it might be helpful on a full race car.
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 11:11 PM
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From my reading, around 180* is ideal. In my Prelude, I have my fans kick on at 180* and I have yet to see anything over 185*. Their is no reason to run any hotter, as long as everything is expanded to its appropriate tolerances.

The only thing I see through running hotter, is an increased chance of knock. The hot spots in the combustion chamber, would just be that much hotter.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 12:15 AM
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It sounds like the metal piping of the AEM v2 is suffering from heatsoak more than anything. It's not your operating temps you should be concerned about, which is why I believe this thread got mislead.

You want to decrease your IAT's.

- Engine heatshield
- Cooling plate
- Heat reflective barriers
- Different intake
- Venting

Modifying your operating temps in anyway isn't going to do you any good.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by H22toF20,Sep 5 2010, 02:11 AM
From my reading, around 180* is ideal. In my Prelude, I have my fans kick on at 180* and I have yet to see anything over 185*. Their is no reason to run any hotter, as long as everything is expanded to its appropriate tolerances.

The only thing I see through running hotter, is an increased chance of knock. The hot spots in the combustion chamber, would just be that much hotter.
Why pump that precious heat energy out the radiator when it could be pushing down on the pistons? As long as you are keeping the cylinders cool enough to prevent detonation, then there's no need to make them any cooler.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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At the time of dyno I had a k an n fipk
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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the reason you're losing power isn't coolant temp, it's intake air temp (iat). you're getting heatsoaked from sitting on the dyno.

as long as you aren't getting knock and the car drives smoothly, be happy with the power you make.
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