That would further explain, and support heatsoak then. As they are more prone to it than CAI's.

 

I would bet that the issue on the dyno had more to do with the intake manifold getting heat soaked. If you replace the IM gasket with a Hondata insulated gasket, that would go way down. I dyno'ed my AP1 at 3 different shops, and my 1st pull was always the lowest.

 

How do you know if you are getting knock? And detonation?

 

I believe you can probably check your knock counts and knock retard using an OBD-II datalogger, but I've never tried it. However, if you are getting knock with the stock cooling system, then you need a "real" fix for the problem, instead of a crappy band-aid solution like a colder thermostat.

 

O highly doubt I'm getting knock with the stock ecu. My afr ratios aren't bad at all. Only above 8k do they get really rich. Also I only have a lean spike of 13.7.

 

The heat from combustion pushes the piston's down, not the overall engine temperature. After the piston is pushed down, the heat is useless. It just seems to me with the motor running that much hotter, would just make the hot spots in the combustion chamber that much hotter; less timing equals less power in this case.

But to get back on topic, heat soak is what you're experiencing on the dyno.

 

Temperature isn't heat. Temperature is just a measure of heat. The only significant sources of heat in the engine is combustion and friction. If you wanted to really nerd out on the topic, you could actually calculated how much less power would be made with the coolant at 180 F versus 200 F. The issue with ignition timing isn't really a factor until you get well above 200 F. IIRC, my ignition timing doesn't start getting pulled until it's ETC is above 207 F.