Diff friendly clutch upgrade
Hi,
I'm in need of a new clutch for my stock 05 s2k. I've always been of the opinion that If some thing breaks replace it with a stronger better part where possible. I want to replace my clutch with a ClutchMasters FX100 or FX200 kit, I gather from the ClutchMasters website that both kits have 70%increased holding capacity on a oem clutch.
I have been advised that replacing a oem clutch with a stronger aftermarket clutch could result in me breaking my differential due to the increased strength of the aftermarket clutch. Is this the case?
Is it better to stick to a oem kit like the exedy oem replacement kit or is stronger better?
My plan is to run the normal bolt on n/a modifications and MAYBE a small shot of nos some time in the future.
Any advice as to witch clutch would work best for my needs would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I'm in need of a new clutch for my stock 05 s2k. I've always been of the opinion that If some thing breaks replace it with a stronger better part where possible. I want to replace my clutch with a ClutchMasters FX100 or FX200 kit, I gather from the ClutchMasters website that both kits have 70%increased holding capacity on a oem clutch.
I have been advised that replacing a oem clutch with a stronger aftermarket clutch could result in me breaking my differential due to the increased strength of the aftermarket clutch. Is this the case?
Is it better to stick to a oem kit like the exedy oem replacement kit or is stronger better?
My plan is to run the normal bolt on n/a modifications and MAYBE a small shot of nos some time in the future.
Any advice as to witch clutch would work best for my needs would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Clutches don't break diffs. Your left foot determines when your diff breaks. Launching the car with any clutch can break the diff.
Why do you want a stronger clutch? I don't see a benefit. Idk what the clamp load is like on those clutch masters. But you might see accelerated thrust/crank bearing failures and increased pedal effort.
With any high clamp load clutch, you'll want to get a clutch bypass switch to start the car...and always be mindful not to leave the clutch pushed down for any longer than needed to shift. The last part is good practice with any clutch, though....
The stock clutch works great and is surprisingly strong. Don't buy an exedy replacement, though.
Buy a stock AP2 clutch from a honda dealer. Bernardiparts.com or hondautomotiveparts.com are good dealer websites to use.
Regardless of which clutch you buy, make sure you also buy honda high temp urea grease, a new genuine Honda throw out bearing, and a new bearing guide sleeve.
An AP1 flywheel and CDV delete/AP1 slave cylinder are both good upgrades that will make the clutch last a LOT longer.
Why do you want a stronger clutch? I don't see a benefit. Idk what the clamp load is like on those clutch masters. But you might see accelerated thrust/crank bearing failures and increased pedal effort.
With any high clamp load clutch, you'll want to get a clutch bypass switch to start the car...and always be mindful not to leave the clutch pushed down for any longer than needed to shift. The last part is good practice with any clutch, though....
The stock clutch works great and is surprisingly strong. Don't buy an exedy replacement, though.
Buy a stock AP2 clutch from a honda dealer. Bernardiparts.com or hondautomotiveparts.com are good dealer websites to use.
Regardless of which clutch you buy, make sure you also buy honda high temp urea grease, a new genuine Honda throw out bearing, and a new bearing guide sleeve.
An AP1 flywheel and CDV delete/AP1 slave cylinder are both good upgrades that will make the clutch last a LOT longer.
Harsher clutch engagements are going to put greater shock loads on the diff, increasing the chance of failure. Yes, you can modulate with your left foot, but the clutch takeup is largely a function of the clutch, and not your left foot. Besides, nobody upgrades their clutch just so they can "take it easy" on the drivetrain.
I understand what you're saying...but you can easily blow up a diff with a stock clutch too.
Meaning your left foot is still the majority factor. If that was NOT the case, diff failures could be traced to a certain type/brand of clutch rather than a certain type of driving.
Meaning your left foot is still the majority factor. If that was NOT the case, diff failures could be traced to a certain type/brand of clutch rather than a certain type of driving.
So looks like general consensus is it best to stick to stock honda oem clutch, not the exedy oem kit
My thinking was that fitting a slightly stronger clutch would result in it lasting longer, plus I can get the aftermarket clutches like the clutch master for cheaper then the oem parts. But if I stand a chance of hurting my drivetrain with aftermarket I don't wanna take the chance. If a oem would stand up to what I would like to do to the car in the futur then I'd be happy with that.
My thinking was that fitting a slightly stronger clutch would result in it lasting longer, plus I can get the aftermarket clutches like the clutch master for cheaper then the oem parts. But if I stand a chance of hurting my drivetrain with aftermarket I don't wanna take the chance. If a oem would stand up to what I would like to do to the car in the futur then I'd be happy with that.








