//steve\\

I completely agree with you and this is merely a band-aid in my situation but it's a helpful band-aid. Unfortunately to my knowledge I can't buy my suspension in a shortened shock version and just about everything else is way out of budget. I think a nice Koni setup would probably be the most reasonably priced.

i2ice

I did the same thing on my function and form coilovers, to regain shock travel after lowering past what the shock body would allow.

//steve\\

I wouldn't personally do it just to go lower I'm doing it to help correct the lack of suspension travel because of my ride height.

This is pretty close to my current ride height. I think I've dropped the rear a turn or two and gone up a few turns in the front. At that height the Clubsports were just about on bumpstops.

i2ice

looks great! i definetly did it for along the same reasons, i was able to drop the car as low as i wanted, but lose spring preload, the addition of these top hats counter acted that.

berny2435

Steve,
if you could please, measure the droop travel as well and or take a picture of one side the car jacked up.

//steve\\

^Will do. I still think it has a decent amount of droop travel but I'm no expert.

I did order my new springs last night so whenever those come in I'll be making the swap. Ended up going 750f, 650r.

Last night I had to raise the driver front corner a few turns...I must have been off in my estimations while I was putting things back together and missed it but it was definitely low. When I was doing this I got to the point where the helper spring was 99% compressed and I'm starting to think that up front I probably don't even need them. They aren't really doing any harm but for the sake of eliminating the possibility of coil bind I'd be better off moving up to a longer spring and removing them completely. I can't remember if the passenger front was the same?

berny2435

With 550s, the springs usually compress enough to give a good amount of droop travel. I have a ton at my ride height but I'd imagine you would have less with more of the shaft upward and the helper springs almost fully compressed.

I would agree that you should remove the helper springs b/c you are actually just compressing them and pre-loading the main springs to get the ride height you want. You have probably taken out most of the shock sag caused from vehicle weight by doing this. With the future higher spring rates you are going to run, you would be preloading the main spring less but you would still be compressing the helper spring near as much as you are now. You might want to get some very low rate springs to take up the gap in extraneous situations.

these will likely work for the clubsports even though they are 2.5" ID. Their solid height should be enough for the pretty slim KW dividers
http://pitstopusa.com/i-5077505-hype...i-d-25-lb.html

I was thinking of ordering a couple sets for when I up my spring rates.

Here are some 2.25" dividers if the clubsports wont work but i think they will if the helper springs compress to a solid stack height thicker than the KW design
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1877
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1875


If you haven't already ordered them, killer deals on Hyperco Springs here
http://www.shock-shop.com/Hyperco/Co...%20Springs.htm

Duke Togo

since the kw v1's don't come with top hats I picked up some from ebay

Breaking Point

Which year civic tophats did u order for this project? I'm thinking about adding these to my Ark coilovers

Duke Togo

heres a link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380388493347...84.m1497.l2649

The other poster said you dont have to mod the front but its way easier to add a tiny drop of marking fluid and close the hood , then take a small drill bit and hand drill a hole through the heat shield attached to the bottom of the hood, then use a bigger one like 3/8 to make it wide enough to go through without any interference, you may also want to add some super glue to the backside since it is fiber and will fray.

You can see the tiny hole at the top left