EDITED: Innovative motor mount & trans mount install and review, with video
03-03-2012, 05:51 PM
#21
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thank you sir.
oh?
Looking forward to your review/video.
Looking forward to your review/video.
03-04-2012, 02:43 PM
#22
BTW just installed mine... For those waiting to do it, do the tranny mount first. You won't have to lower the engine cradle to get the bolts out. The stock mounts have plenty of flex to lower the transmission to pull those bad boys.
Also recommend the appropriate wrenches... Everything is metric, if you use a standard you may strip something!
17mm for the liquid filled insert, 14mm for the block mount. When you put it all back together, 17mm for the new Innovative hardware for the block, 19mm for the engine cradle mount and the pivot bolt.
Also recommend the appropriate wrenches... Everything is metric, if you use a standard you may strip something!
17mm for the liquid filled insert, 14mm for the block mount. When you put it all back together, 17mm for the new Innovative hardware for the block, 19mm for the engine cradle mount and the pivot bolt.
03-05-2012, 05:23 PM
#23
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BTW just installed mine... For those waiting to do it, do the tranny mount first. You won't have to lower the engine cradle to get the bolts out. The stock mounts have plenty of flex to lower the transmission to pull those bad boys.
Also recommend the appropriate wrenches... Everything is metric, if you use a standard you may strip something!
17mm for the liquid filled insert, 14mm for the block mount. When you put it all back together, 17mm for the new Innovative hardware for the block, 19mm for the engine cradle mount and the pivot bolt.
Also recommend the appropriate wrenches... Everything is metric, if you use a standard you may strip something!
17mm for the liquid filled insert, 14mm for the block mount. When you put it all back together, 17mm for the new Innovative hardware for the block, 19mm for the engine cradle mount and the pivot bolt.
anyways here's the write up for the motor mounts
2bolts here in the location, 12mm need to be removed
you can remove the catalytic converter if you want, but if not, just take off the two spring loaded bolts and pull the cat aside and it's just 2 extra bolts and exhaust is bolted back up
you need to remove or pull over the catalytic converter to get to this single bolt
optional to remove the two bolts to remove the brace, this isn't necessary but it gets the brace out of the way because the two bolts holding the rest of the mount are a pain!
this is why i chose to remove the bottom brace, again up to you.
also THESE NUTS ARE SPOT WELDED. so put a 14mm socket on the driver side and remove the bolts... if you try it this way you will have to break the factory spot welds to get it to turn.... ask me how i know >
the oem mount removed. the two bolt carriers in the transmission is why you need to get the trans low! see how close it is to the chassis on the left, because the angle of the innovative mount makes it impossible to install the bolts through the passenger side!
get the transmission as low as you can to install the top bolts, then re-install the oem mounts into the chassis and tighten it all down. and re-install your catalytic converter, or test pipe.... or straight pipe, it's your car after all
03-10-2012, 06:56 AM
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straight out of the body shop and onto the street for almost 50miles today. gotta say at the begging i noticed a lot of vibration and a new rattle in the passenger foot well somewhere and my soft top latches seemed to be rattling a bit. so i unlatched the soft top and latched it back down and that solved the issue. at first i really noticed the vibration.
but honestly i haven't driven my car in over a month because it's been in the shop all this time. now i installed a test pipe and i noticed more drone in my car and the rear end noise seemed to be a lot louder then i remember. honestly i don't remember the gear and clutch wine to be so loud! but I'll get used to it again
so yes the innovative mounts are a lot stronger then the stock mounts. there poly bushing instead of the liquid filled rubber mount. so it's going to vibrate more! but it really isn't that much more! you'll notice the center of your hood and the foot wells have more vibration, and if you have a lot of rattles there only going to get worse!
honestly i say if you upgrade and don't want to worry about the vibrations just do the motor mounts not the transmission mounts. the difference is that trans-mount really ties the whole thing together and really locks the motor and trans into the frame.
but honestly for me i love it. i wouldn't change a thing! it really makes the car feel like a little go-kart!
the added noise of the gears whining, yes i love it. then again my second vehicle is a motorcycle and that thing shakes worse at idle.
but at the end of the day i was used to it, i didn't notice any extra rattles or the gear whine anymore. i think for me it's been that i haven't been in my car for over a month so i was coming into the car fresh and noticing everything. i say if you do it go in with a fresh mind and stop looking for all the little issues. just swap them and live with it. within a week it'll settle in the bushing and it'll be find.
if you want something more like the stock set up, then get the 65A mounts and live with softer bushing failing, because honestly the stock mounts r garbage! just swap to the innovative motor mounts and don't do the trans-mount and that should keep you near the stock setup as your going to get
ill post up in about a week and give another review and we'll see if it settles anymore.
ill take another video of the hood shaking on my way work to show how much the mounts move the hood (the hood vibrating is possibly the worst, but it doesn't make any noise). so video to follow and another review at the end of next week
but honestly i haven't driven my car in over a month because it's been in the shop all this time. now i installed a test pipe and i noticed more drone in my car and the rear end noise seemed to be a lot louder then i remember. honestly i don't remember the gear and clutch wine to be so loud! but I'll get used to it again
so yes the innovative mounts are a lot stronger then the stock mounts. there poly bushing instead of the liquid filled rubber mount. so it's going to vibrate more! but it really isn't that much more! you'll notice the center of your hood and the foot wells have more vibration, and if you have a lot of rattles there only going to get worse!
honestly i say if you upgrade and don't want to worry about the vibrations just do the motor mounts not the transmission mounts. the difference is that trans-mount really ties the whole thing together and really locks the motor and trans into the frame.
but honestly for me i love it. i wouldn't change a thing! it really makes the car feel like a little go-kart!
the added noise of the gears whining, yes i love it. then again my second vehicle is a motorcycle and that thing shakes worse at idle.
but at the end of the day i was used to it, i didn't notice any extra rattles or the gear whine anymore. i think for me it's been that i haven't been in my car for over a month so i was coming into the car fresh and noticing everything. i say if you do it go in with a fresh mind and stop looking for all the little issues. just swap them and live with it. within a week it'll settle in the bushing and it'll be find.
if you want something more like the stock set up, then get the 65A mounts and live with softer bushing failing, because honestly the stock mounts r garbage! just swap to the innovative motor mounts and don't do the trans-mount and that should keep you near the stock setup as your going to get
ill post up in about a week and give another review and we'll see if it settles anymore.
ill take another video of the hood shaking on my way work to show how much the mounts move the hood (the hood vibrating is possibly the worst, but it doesn't make any noise). so video to follow and another review at the end of next week
03-10-2012, 11:43 AM
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03-13-2012, 10:41 PM
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video up in the first post.
mostly idling in traffic, off idle and low speeds then 1mile of highway and back into the parking lot.
excuse the banter between myself and my father.
i should be having a auto-x event this sunday and then it's off to the harris hills race track on the 24th and then the 25th has another auto-x event. im probably going to snag some footage for the boys at my work and ill have a review of these things on the track
mostly idling in traffic, off idle and low speeds then 1mile of highway and back into the parking lot.
excuse the banter between myself and my father.
i should be having a auto-x event this sunday and then it's off to the harris hills race track on the 24th and then the 25th has another auto-x event. im probably going to snag some footage for the boys at my work and ill have a review of these things on the track
03-14-2012, 02:46 PM
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I got mine installed today. I'll be back with a more detailed post, but the install isn't too bad and first driving impressions are positive. Going from worn through liquid filled OEM mounts to 75A poly is a real lesson in what motor mounts do!
03-14-2012, 06:18 PM
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So... Here we go. If you don't care about details, skip all this.
Innovative 75A Motor and Tranny Mounts for S2000
Design 7/10
I think a sitting on a donut, versus suspended in the donut (OEM vs Innovative) would be more effective and possibly allow for the materials to be lighter. Also, the Innovative pieces seem to use more hardware than necessary if they were one unit. Lastly, the OEM cast aluminum is dramatically lighter than these heavy gauge steel. For the tranny mount, it is kind of nice to have that mega solid piece bridging the tranny tunnel in the unibody, but for the motor mounts, it is just wasted mass.
Construction and Quality 10/10
Clean welds, uniform powder coating and 8.8+ included hardware. Not a lot more to say here. As long as they hold up, I am a happy customer. The pictures speak for themselves. Hopefully I don't get the keyholing in the mount like the 60A pictures showed on this forum.
Install 8/10
With a one page instruction sheet this would have been a 10. You are left guessing on a few things, but most of it is self evident. Labeling left and right and noting which way the base mounts have to sit would have been all the help I needed to avoid some fiddling. Everything lined up and dropped into place as well as I could have hoped for. You can do the install without splitting the stock mounts or removing anything extra (other than my Spoon X brace). A variety of sockets and a penetrating lube worked for me.
Performance/ Driving
First a disclaimer, I have heard that these break in. All of these impressions are based of driving home (25 miles) with the top down at a variety of speeds up to 75. The vibration at idle is noticeable but not in a nuisance way. Just off idle is where the trim starts to dance a little and that is where I hope it calms down. Under throttle and at speed it feels very close to normal. In the transitions it just feels... solid. I will try and think of a better way to describe it but for now I just have to say solid. You better start practicing your rev matching. The vibration is not a huge deal, the part that surprised me was the noise. She sounds nasty now. Gear whine is there but also a lot more growl from the engine. It made me decide that I want to go back to an aftermarket exhaust.
Overall, I am happy with it. It eliminated the low idle/shut down shudder and driving feels much tighter with a far more direct link between your foot and the wheels. Next in the plan is an exhaust and some diff collars.
Innovative 75A Motor and Tranny Mounts for S2000
Design 7/10
I think a sitting on a donut, versus suspended in the donut (OEM vs Innovative) would be more effective and possibly allow for the materials to be lighter. Also, the Innovative pieces seem to use more hardware than necessary if they were one unit. Lastly, the OEM cast aluminum is dramatically lighter than these heavy gauge steel. For the tranny mount, it is kind of nice to have that mega solid piece bridging the tranny tunnel in the unibody, but for the motor mounts, it is just wasted mass.
Construction and Quality 10/10
Clean welds, uniform powder coating and 8.8+ included hardware. Not a lot more to say here. As long as they hold up, I am a happy customer. The pictures speak for themselves. Hopefully I don't get the keyholing in the mount like the 60A pictures showed on this forum.
Install 8/10
With a one page instruction sheet this would have been a 10. You are left guessing on a few things, but most of it is self evident. Labeling left and right and noting which way the base mounts have to sit would have been all the help I needed to avoid some fiddling. Everything lined up and dropped into place as well as I could have hoped for. You can do the install without splitting the stock mounts or removing anything extra (other than my Spoon X brace). A variety of sockets and a penetrating lube worked for me.
Performance/ Driving
First a disclaimer, I have heard that these break in. All of these impressions are based of driving home (25 miles) with the top down at a variety of speeds up to 75. The vibration at idle is noticeable but not in a nuisance way. Just off idle is where the trim starts to dance a little and that is where I hope it calms down. Under throttle and at speed it feels very close to normal. In the transitions it just feels... solid. I will try and think of a better way to describe it but for now I just have to say solid. You better start practicing your rev matching. The vibration is not a huge deal, the part that surprised me was the noise. She sounds nasty now. Gear whine is there but also a lot more growl from the engine. It made me decide that I want to go back to an aftermarket exhaust.
Overall, I am happy with it. It eliminated the low idle/shut down shudder and driving feels much tighter with a far more direct link between your foot and the wheels. Next in the plan is an exhaust and some diff collars.
