Everything I Need for a New Clutch
I need to replace the clutch on my completely stock '01 and I've decided on the SOS Sport Clutch:
I'm interested in adding FI in the future with a target of at least ~300 whp (Kraftwerks?) which is why I'm not going with OEM. I'm planning on buying the components online then have a professional install everything and I have a few questions:
Thanks!
I'm interested in adding FI in the future with a target of at least ~300 whp (Kraftwerks?) which is why I'm not going with OEM. I'm planning on buying the components online then have a professional install everything and I have a few questions:
- Do I need any other parts other than the pilot/throw out bearing in addition to the clutch?
- Would OEM bearings be fine, or should I get the SOS set for $130?
- Is $400-$600 a reasonable estimate for labor?
- Is a braided clutch hose a good idea (SOS braided hose)?
Thanks!
I completely agree with hecash on the parts list; exactly what I was going to post. This setup will hold your 300-400 HP range just fine. Don't forget that you will want to at least resurface your AP1 flywheel, or just buy a new OEM one if you would rather. I would recommend buying a little jar of the Honda high temp urea grease to give the shop to use on your grease points like the TO bearing guide, release fork, slave, etc. You should get the jar back with at least 75% of the grease left.
There may be a few random odds and ends you could have the shop replace while they were doing this. Maybe buy a new serpentine belt for them to put on when it goes back together (they are like $10-$15). Have them re-grease the shifter for you (they can use the high temp urea grease). I took the time to clean up the transmission while it was out; sprayed carb cleaner to get all the clutch dust out and cleaned up the release fork and slave really good. Not sure what the cost implication will be from them to do little things like this.
There may be a few random odds and ends you could have the shop replace while they were doing this. Maybe buy a new serpentine belt for them to put on when it goes back together (they are like $10-$15). Have them re-grease the shifter for you (they can use the high temp urea grease). I took the time to clean up the transmission while it was out; sprayed carb cleaner to get all the clutch dust out and cleaned up the release fork and slave really good. Not sure what the cost implication will be from them to do little things like this.
Great, thanks for the information guys. Looks like it will be the ACT clutch instead (it appears this also feels similar to stock, like the SOS is supposed to, which is what I want).
This brings up another question: since I'd probably prefer to just buy another flywheel, is the difference between OEM and an ultralight just a matter of preference with FI? I've read a lot of the posts here about what a lighter flywheel will do, and the pros and cons, but I haven't found anything specifically in relation to a lighter flywheel with FI (bad search skills maybe?). Good idea, bad idea, personal preference?
I'm leaning towards just an OEM one since it's not as big of a change as compared to the AP2, but I'd hate to find out down the line that a lighter flywheel with FI makes a big difference. As a bit of background, this is not my DD and I would like to start upgrading things and taking it to the track (going for the first time in early October).
Thanks again!
This brings up another question: since I'd probably prefer to just buy another flywheel, is the difference between OEM and an ultralight just a matter of preference with FI? I've read a lot of the posts here about what a lighter flywheel will do, and the pros and cons, but I haven't found anything specifically in relation to a lighter flywheel with FI (bad search skills maybe?). Good idea, bad idea, personal preference?
I'm leaning towards just an OEM one since it's not as big of a change as compared to the AP2, but I'd hate to find out down the line that a lighter flywheel with FI makes a big difference. As a bit of background, this is not my DD and I would like to start upgrading things and taking it to the track (going for the first time in early October).
Thanks again!
FWIW, I am getting my clutch installed this weekend, and I chose to go with exactly what Hecash stated, also retaining my AP1 flywheel. I daily mine so I didn't want to go with a lighter flywheel and wanted to retain the feel of the stock clutch. If you will only be tracking or wekend driving the S, a lighter flywheel isn't a bad option for you. I am also FI, but I never hear or any benifits to FI from a lighter flywheel, not sure tho.
Also, If you do go with the ACT HDPP, use the H021, not the HS1.
Also, If you do go with the ACT HDPP, use the H021, not the HS1.
Thanks for the input drkphnx.
What's the difference between the H021 and HS1, I can't seem to find anything and from what I can tell it just seems like one is a kit vs one is just the PP. Is that correct?
Also, the following both say H021, but different pictures. Any idea which is correct (IE what I should be looking for when it comes in the mail)?
Auto Parts Warehouse
Amazon
To add to my confusion I found this post which states HS1, but the part seems to say H021.
What's the difference between the H021 and HS1, I can't seem to find anything and from what I can tell it just seems like one is a kit vs one is just the PP. Is that correct?
Also, the following both say H021, but different pictures. Any idea which is correct (IE what I should be looking for when it comes in the mail)?
Auto Parts Warehouse
Amazon
To add to my confusion I found this post which states HS1, but the part seems to say H021.
You can buy either one in a kit of on its own. The H021 is the new revised model, the HS1 is the older model that people had problems with. Most places will carry the newer model, but it's always good to make sure you are getting the new one. Glad to help 
The cheapest place I was able to find the H021 for is from here http://kspecracing.com/i-50500.aspx for $414 shipped
It did take about 2 weeks for delivery, they don't carry it in stock, so they order it from ACT and once they get it, they ship it out to you.

The cheapest place I was able to find the H021 for is from here http://kspecracing.com/i-50500.aspx for $414 shipped
It did take about 2 weeks for delivery, they don't carry it in stock, so they order it from ACT and once they get it, they ship it out to you.
The SOS Sport Clutch kit comes with a release (throw-out) bearing.
My personal preference would be to use the following ($640)
ACT Heavy duty pressure plate $400
OEM Friction Disc $100
OEM Release Bearing Guide $25
OEM Release Bearing $100
OEM Pilot Bearing $15
No braided hose line
Insist on Valvoline Cerulean grease to be used on all components.
Just did this and it works just GREAT!
I think that ALLDATA has this down as a 6-hour job. So, if you are paying $70 per hour, say it's $420.
My personal preference would be to use the following ($640)
ACT Heavy duty pressure plate $400
OEM Friction Disc $100
OEM Release Bearing Guide $25
OEM Release Bearing $100
OEM Pilot Bearing $15
No braided hose line
Insist on Valvoline Cerulean grease to be used on all components.
Just did this and it works just GREAT!
I think that ALLDATA has this down as a 6-hour job. So, if you are paying $70 per hour, say it's $420.
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Thank you all for the endorsements, link, and parts list, it's been a great help. Knowing I'm getting the right parts and all the parts I need is a good feeling.
I went ahead and purchased everything except the flywheel and I'll be sure to post up any good pictures from the track day.
Time to start reading some more flywheel threads.
Thanks again.
I went ahead and purchased everything except the flywheel and I'll be sure to post up any good pictures from the track day.
Time to start reading some more flywheel threads.
Thanks again.
I personally would go with an OEM AP1 flywheel. Whether you replace or resurface yours is up to you once you get the old one out and have a chance to look at it. My old one had plenty of heat marks and micro cracks when I removed it, so I went ahead and bought a new one from Honda. With your mileage and assuming it is the original clutch, I would expect the same.
I have zero experience with lightweight flywheels, but I hear they can be difficult to handle in stop-go traffic. While it won't be your DD, I bet you will run into a few situations getting to/from the track that you will regret the purchase of a lightweight flywheel (if what I hear is true).
I have zero experience with lightweight flywheels, but I hear they can be difficult to handle in stop-go traffic. While it won't be your DD, I bet you will run into a few situations getting to/from the track that you will regret the purchase of a lightweight flywheel (if what I hear is true).
That's the same thought I had and why I was leaning towards the OEM. I think I need to figure out how much more fun / how much could it help to have under ideal conditions (track, no traffic, etc.) vs the added difficulty of driving.






