With a new clutch you should adjust the rod play in the master clutch cylinder. This will change the engagement point and lower it towards the middle of the travel. If it's fully not disengaging, you will wear out the disk prematurely.

It shouldn't grind going Into gear, noises well I don't know this clutch but exedy don't have a good reputation around here
[/quote]

Ok I'm going to get it checked out at a transmission place sometime next week. Do you think the the notches on the disk have anything to do with the grinding?
[/quote]

I can't see that causing grinding.

Did you use a new Flywheel or used?

[/quote]

the clutch kit came with a new flywheel.

 

Lol. Again...this clutch makes a lot of noise as part of normal operation. If the free play is adjusted properly, the clutch will engage at the very top of the pedal travel...as it was intended.

Why would you want a race clutch to engage in the middle or at the bottom?

Take the thread to the drivetrain forum if my account of this clutch isnt something you find reliable. I'm sure people have used these clutches...and everyone will tell you what I've already said.

Here's mine after about 20k miles. Lots of track use...and unfortunately, street use as well. This clutch wears out INCREDIBLY fast when used on the street.

 

It seems like I might have bought the wrong clutch. Would changing just the disc solve this?

 

Everything you're saying is fine and dandy. All i'm helping do is address the grind. Whether it's grabbing at the bottom/middle or top is irrelevant. The grind might be due to improper rod adjustment.

It's simple, turn the rod 360 degree's clockwise, drive and see. Worse? Better?
run rod 1080 degree's counter clock wide, drive and see. Worse? Better?
Like it how it was, you're 360 degree's away from going back to where you started.

How hard is this? Easy and it might help with the grinding.

As I stated before I don't know about the noises, reliability or feel...

Also adjust the distance between the pedal to the rod, you should have a little of freeplay before engaging the rod. Don't remove all the free play.

 

I mentioned adjusting the freeplay already. Thats done in order to get the engagement point where he wants it.

As far as the grinding....I don't think he means grinding like...gears grinding.

He's saying that as he lets UP on the clutch, after the car is in gear, there's what he describes as a grinding noise.

If that's the case...the noise is normal, as I keep saying. No amount of adjustment will make it go away. Virtually any race clutch will make a "grinding" or rumbling or growling noise upon engagement. Couple that with the motor mount shake associated with agressive clutch engagement.

The clutch's brochure says that the user should expect unusual noises upon engagement. Its a ceremetallic disk with no cushion springs and a 2500lb plate. Its not going to be quiet.

 

If he's grinding gears...then he needs to adjust freeplay properly. I'm guessing the mechanic set the freeplay super low because he wasn't sure WTF was going on with it.

Normal engagement for that clutch is WAY at the top. I'm talking maybe the first 1" of clutch movement is all it takes to go from engaged to disengaged fully.

Tap and shift.

He's saying the engagement is at the bottom. I said it was set incorrectly by his mechanic. I don't think he believes me.

 

so if i change the disc it will change?

 

What are you trying to change? You're not being very clear about your issue.

Hyper Single clutches have 3 main parts:
-Pressure plate (the part with the leaf springs)
-Friction disc (The disc with the friction material)
-Flywheel (bolts to the crank)

All of those parts are designed as an assembly.

I don't think that you can use a street disc on the Hyper single assembly. It won't house a stock disc...for sure.

Street clutches are smooth because the discs are full faced, and usually an organic friction material. They have MUCH lighter pressure plates. They come with heavier flywheels for smoother engagement and less rev drop between shifts or between rev blips. Your best bet would be to replace your hyper single with a street clutch...like a genuine Honda replacement (not an Exedy "OEM" replacement...because they're junk for the S2000).

If you're stuck with the hyper single, you should just:
-Adjust freeplay properly. The clutch will do all of its work at the VERY top of the pedal travel.
-Learn how to drive it. It will always make noise. It will never be smooth. But do your best.
-Get a clutch bypass switch to start the car.
-Don't spend any more time than you ABSOLUTELY need to with the clutch pushed down.

 

this is my daily driver so i just want this to last and be the best that it can for all types of driving. i bought this because i thought it would be stronger because it is a high performance clutch

 

Ok. What is done to the car that a Honda clutch won't be durable? Is it turbo'd or something?

I went back to a stock Honda clutch after I toased my Hyper Single. I wanted a clutch that would be driveable on the street, last long, and would stand up to track use. The stock clutch does all that.

The hyper single is the wrong clutch for you. I don't think they make a low inertia, full faced disc. And you'll still be stuck with the 2500LB plate even if you do change the disc. Race pressure plates are meant for fast, high RPM shifting. They are known to cause worn thrust bearings/thrust bearing related rod knock on street cars because of the type of use that a street car goes through (low RPM clutch operation...and the clutch spends more time pressed down).