free hp (almost)
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free hp (almost)
check this out.just thought i should share..wait.i think it should be in faq....i found it on one site...
GAIN 5 HORSEPOWER THIS WEEKEND
For Almost No Money Spent
by Nathan Morris
If you're looking for free & cheap ways to increase the horsepower output of your engine - I've got just the thing for you.
I want to share with you 6 cheap or in some cases, even free ways that you can gain horsepower.
I hope that you will enjoy these 6 awesome modifications for your car, and without further delay - let's get started!
Modification Number One: Index Your Plugs
The next time you are doing a tune-up on your ride, be sure to take note of this modification. By simply installing your plugs in a particular way, you will pick up roughly 1 whp, dyno proven time and time again.
As illustrated above, in order to perform this mod, mark the side on which the "open end" of the spark plug faces. Proceed to install them as you normally would, except when the plug is hand-tight (that is, you've screwed it in without a ratchet as far as it'll go), use your ratchet to tighten the plug until the open end of the plug, faces the intake side of your cylinder head. That's it!
Modification Number Two: Insulate Fuel Lines
Under-hood engine heat is a serious performance robber in almost all cars. Not only does the under-hood heat cause performance loss by heating up the intake air, but it also causes performance loss by heating up the fuel lines. Cooler fuel will help cool the intake charge, as well as provide for a better overall mixture.
In order to get this stolen power back, simply go down to your local hardware store and purchase a roll of refrigerator and air conditioning insulation. Wrap all of your under-hood fuel lines with the insulation to keep the cool in, and the hot out.
Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor
In most fuel injected vehicles you will find a sensor that measures intake air temperature. You will need to refer to your factory service manual to find its location.
At any rate, it is very typical to find the IAT sensor mounted inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time.
In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra horsepower.
In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole with JB weld and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done.
Modification Number Four: Synthetic Oil
In the past 3 years I have been running various types of oils through my engines and have found that for the most part - all oils are the same, power wise. However, Synthetic oils definitely make more power over standard "dino" oils. In fact, I have consistently seen anywhere from 2-3hp across the rev range from using a true synthetic versus a standard oil.
Therefore, next time you change oils, switch to synthetic. Even on a high mileage engine, it works wonders. It is also a far better lubricant and protector of your engine.
Modification Number Five: Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant
If it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers would use pure water to cool your vehicle. Straight water cools better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is always going to produce more horsepower.
Instead of a typical half and half ratio, try 40/60. However, NEVER use pure water, as this may cause premature corrosion which will cause a costly repair bill. You may also try water wetter to further enhance the effect, but be cautioned that water wetter should only be used for track purposes.
Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
This one I saved for last, and for good reason. This is perhaps one of the best modifications that you can do for basically nothing. As you'll see in the dyno below, which is of my Integra LS motor in a 92 Civic hatchback, before and after: I got back almost 10ft-lbs of torque over the entire rev range. 10ft-lbs that was present in the engine when completely cool, but once at operating temperature was no longer available. This is good for about 0.2 seconds in the quarter mile in my particular vehicle - needless to say I'm very pleased with this modification.
Above you see a diagram of how coolant normally flows through a throttle body (illustration is from an Accord). All you need to do on any vehicle is to take those two coolant lines, disconnect them from the throttle body and connect them with a coupler available in the vacuum hose section of your auto parts store. It's basically two nipples connected to each other that allow you to connect two pieces of coolant hose.
If you have problems with erratic idle afterwards. You will need to find your fast idle (or idle air control valve), and disable it by blocking it off or somehow keeping it closed. This occurs mostly in Hondas to my knowledge, and it's pretty hard to explain in a "universal" manor
GAIN 5 HORSEPOWER THIS WEEKEND
For Almost No Money Spent
by Nathan Morris
If you're looking for free & cheap ways to increase the horsepower output of your engine - I've got just the thing for you.
I want to share with you 6 cheap or in some cases, even free ways that you can gain horsepower.
I hope that you will enjoy these 6 awesome modifications for your car, and without further delay - let's get started!
Modification Number One: Index Your Plugs
The next time you are doing a tune-up on your ride, be sure to take note of this modification. By simply installing your plugs in a particular way, you will pick up roughly 1 whp, dyno proven time and time again.
As illustrated above, in order to perform this mod, mark the side on which the "open end" of the spark plug faces. Proceed to install them as you normally would, except when the plug is hand-tight (that is, you've screwed it in without a ratchet as far as it'll go), use your ratchet to tighten the plug until the open end of the plug, faces the intake side of your cylinder head. That's it!
Modification Number Two: Insulate Fuel Lines
Under-hood engine heat is a serious performance robber in almost all cars. Not only does the under-hood heat cause performance loss by heating up the intake air, but it also causes performance loss by heating up the fuel lines. Cooler fuel will help cool the intake charge, as well as provide for a better overall mixture.
In order to get this stolen power back, simply go down to your local hardware store and purchase a roll of refrigerator and air conditioning insulation. Wrap all of your under-hood fuel lines with the insulation to keep the cool in, and the hot out.
Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor
In most fuel injected vehicles you will find a sensor that measures intake air temperature. You will need to refer to your factory service manual to find its location.
At any rate, it is very typical to find the IAT sensor mounted inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time.
In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra horsepower.
In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole with JB weld and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done.
Modification Number Four: Synthetic Oil
In the past 3 years I have been running various types of oils through my engines and have found that for the most part - all oils are the same, power wise. However, Synthetic oils definitely make more power over standard "dino" oils. In fact, I have consistently seen anywhere from 2-3hp across the rev range from using a true synthetic versus a standard oil.
Therefore, next time you change oils, switch to synthetic. Even on a high mileage engine, it works wonders. It is also a far better lubricant and protector of your engine.
Modification Number Five: Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant
If it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers would use pure water to cool your vehicle. Straight water cools better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is always going to produce more horsepower.
Instead of a typical half and half ratio, try 40/60. However, NEVER use pure water, as this may cause premature corrosion which will cause a costly repair bill. You may also try water wetter to further enhance the effect, but be cautioned that water wetter should only be used for track purposes.
Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
This one I saved for last, and for good reason. This is perhaps one of the best modifications that you can do for basically nothing. As you'll see in the dyno below, which is of my Integra LS motor in a 92 Civic hatchback, before and after: I got back almost 10ft-lbs of torque over the entire rev range. 10ft-lbs that was present in the engine when completely cool, but once at operating temperature was no longer available. This is good for about 0.2 seconds in the quarter mile in my particular vehicle - needless to say I'm very pleased with this modification.
Above you see a diagram of how coolant normally flows through a throttle body (illustration is from an Accord). All you need to do on any vehicle is to take those two coolant lines, disconnect them from the throttle body and connect them with a coupler available in the vacuum hose section of your auto parts store. It's basically two nipples connected to each other that allow you to connect two pieces of coolant hose.
If you have problems with erratic idle afterwards. You will need to find your fast idle (or idle air control valve), and disable it by blocking it off or somehow keeping it closed. This occurs mostly in Hondas to my knowledge, and it's pretty hard to explain in a "universal" manor
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From: ca
www.ultimateresourceguides.com.. i got it here.. many of us might have done this already, but i would like to share to some others who may no know yet..have fun tuning....
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From: I live in an ER
Ah some of these are "iffy" mods.
The bypass coolant is one of them. There is a DIY how to do this on the internet. PPL claim it to be awesome, others say it's
for the Relocate IAT Sensor - again, JB welding anything in my book is iffy.
Not to mention it's a questionable mod, but if someone cares to add some Facts to this feel free to educate me.
The bypass coolant is one of them. There is a DIY how to do this on the internet. PPL claim it to be awesome, others say it's
for the Relocate IAT Sensor - again, JB welding anything in my book is iffy.
Not to mention it's a questionable mod, but if someone cares to add some Facts to this feel free to educate me.
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From: ca
fair enough..i have done this...except the iat relocation, and jb weld...to me jb weld is BS too..., but the rest of the mods listed i say is worth it....
just thought this may be able to help other guys like me a short while back when i was searching for almost free hp, or just something fun to do over the weekend that will help the s2000 run better.
just thought this may be able to help other guys like me a short while back when i was searching for almost free hp, or just something fun to do over the weekend that will help the s2000 run better.
Im just giving my .02
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From: Dry Branch
I've seen this list somewhere before, but it was so long ago that I could swear that it was applied to carburated cars (and hence slightly different).
Not trying to diss your post Jirro22, 'cause I know you're just sharing something interesting that you read elsewhere, but let's see how much of this might actually apply to the S2000. 
It is highly likely that you will find that the S2000 plugs are properly indexed when they are properly torqued. Besides, if you index the plugs as described, the torque will not be correct. Too much torque can strip the plug threads in the head, and too little torque can result in a blown plug. In the S2000, a blown plug can literally destroy the engine.
Do NOT do this with the S2000.
Debatable. A proper cool can full of alcohol and dry ice chilling the fuel doesn't make much difference, and just insulating the fuel lines is going to make even less. Maybe .00001 HP. 
The S2000 IAT sensor is in the ideal location and in general it should not be relocated. The ECU needs an accurate measure of IAT to function properly and the car is likely lose rather than gain power if you try fool the IAT. Timing will not be advanced, and the mixture will not be improved.
Just about everyone is using synthetic in their S2000, so nothing to be gained here.
The engine temperature is controlled by a thermostat, so even if you had something that cooled 1000 times better than water, the engine would still operate at exactly the same temperature. No gain to be had here.
In the version of this I recall, number Six was "Block the heat riser." Older cars had hot spots in the intake manifold to prevent puddling, but the intake manifold on injected cars only carries air, so puddling is not a problem, and hot spots are no longer needed or used.
There are gains to be had by keeping the charge cooler, so this isn't total BS, but just bypassing the TB heating isn't going to buy enough to measure or notice.
Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) it's not easy to find cheap or free ways to get more power from the S2000 engines, but it's always good to look at ideas like these, because it's just as important to know what won't work as it is to know what will.
Not trying to diss your post Jirro22, 'cause I know you're just sharing something interesting that you read elsewhere, but let's see how much of this might actually apply to the S2000.
Modification Number One: Index Your Plugs
Do NOT do this with the S2000.
Modification Number Two: Insulate Fuel Lines
Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor
Modification Number Four: Synthetic Oil
Modification Number Five: Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant
Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
There are gains to be had by keeping the charge cooler, so this isn't total BS, but just bypassing the TB heating isn't going to buy enough to measure or notice.
Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) it's not easy to find cheap or free ways to get more power from the S2000 engines, but it's always good to look at ideas like these, because it's just as important to know what won't work as it is to know what will.
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Modification Number One: Index Your Plugs
mainly for domestic engines where the plugs are not installed dead center at the top which almost everyone japanese motor is set up that way so this wont do much lol
Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor
dumping more fuel doesnt mean more power and wont get the best mixture anyways..
Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
other reason for this was to keep the butterfly from freezing shut if you live i a place that is really cold so bypassing is not worth it
mainly for domestic engines where the plugs are not installed dead center at the top which almost everyone japanese motor is set up that way so this wont do much lol
Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor
dumping more fuel doesnt mean more power and wont get the best mixture anyways..
Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
other reason for this was to keep the butterfly from freezing shut if you live i a place that is really cold so bypassing is not worth it
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From: Modesto, Cali'
I have to agree with RED MX5, but with a few other notes to add
When people relocate the IAT to a cooler location what happens alot of times is that the location may be too cool and therefore not let the ecu go into closed loop mode.
As for the throttle body coolant bypass, I did this at the same time when I add a Hondata heat shield to the intake manifold. And the combination of the two seems to work pretty good
It takes a min or two longer to warm up in cold weather but the slight bump in performance is worth it to me 
When people relocate the IAT to a cooler location what happens alot of times is that the location may be too cool and therefore not let the ecu go into closed loop mode.
As for the throttle body coolant bypass, I did this at the same time when I add a Hondata heat shield to the intake manifold. And the combination of the two seems to work pretty good
It takes a min or two longer to warm up in cold weather but the slight bump in performance is worth it to me
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From: I live in an ER
Originally Posted by screaminyellow,Dec 13 2007, 12:14 PM
I have to agree with RED MX5, but with a few other notes to add
When people relocate the IAT to a cooler location what happens alot of times is that the location may be too cool and therefore not let the ecu go into closed loop mode.
As for the throttle body coolant bypass, I did this at the same time when I add a Hondata heat shield to the intake manifold. And the combination of the two seems to work pretty good It takes a min or two longer to warm up in cold weather but the slight bump in performance is worth it to me
When people relocate the IAT to a cooler location what happens alot of times is that the location may be too cool and therefore not let the ecu go into closed loop mode.
As for the throttle body coolant bypass, I did this at the same time when I add a Hondata heat shield to the intake manifold. And the combination of the two seems to work pretty good
It takes a min or two longer to warm up in cold weather but the slight bump in performance is worth it to me or is this Butt Dyno results only?