free hp (almost)
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1) as said, i dont believe indexing plugs will do much in these motors
2) cant hurt anything to add insulation (if done cleanly) but i doubt the fuel spends enough time in that little of line to effect it
4) as said, most people run synthetic anyways
3,5,6) these all seem like things that are going to hurt longevity of parts on your engine, for gains that i dont think would make a difference.
just my .02, there are always things to change and its good to be thinking, but at the cost some stuff isnt worth it
2) cant hurt anything to add insulation (if done cleanly) but i doubt the fuel spends enough time in that little of line to effect it
4) as said, most people run synthetic anyways
3,5,6) these all seem like things that are going to hurt longevity of parts on your engine, for gains that i dont think would make a difference.
just my .02, there are always things to change and its good to be thinking, but at the cost some stuff isnt worth it
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From: Dry Branch
Originally Posted by NVMY4N,Dec 13 2007, 12:48 PM
Has anyone Proved this bump in performance?
or is this Butt Dyno results only?
or is this Butt Dyno results only?
That said, when you're building a car for performance, every ounce of weight counts, and every tiny bit of power matters, even if you can't measure it, becaue the little things add up to enough to make a difference. If I do 10 things that give me an average of 1 HP each, I'm up 10 HP, and that's enough to worry about (if you are a serious competitor). Like any other mod though, you also have to consider the downsides. I use to be fanatical about blocking the heat risers on my muscle cars, because it's free, and it probably makes a tiny difference in power output. I stopped doing it when I was caught in an unexpected showstorm and had the carb on one of our Fiats freeze up and leave me stranded.
I may still do the coolant bypass on our S2000 though, becuase there is no chance of it ever being driven in freezing weather. Will I feel or be able to measure a difference? No, absolutely not.
NOTE:
DO NOT index the plugs on the S2000. They MUST be torqued properly, and are not if indexed. Improper plug torque can leterally distroy both the block and head.
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From: ca
Originally Posted by RED MX5,Dec 13 2007, 01:20 AM
I've seen this list somewhere before, but it was so long ago that I could swear that it was applied to carburated cars (and hence slightly different).
Not trying to diss your post Jirro22, 'cause I know you're just sharing something interesting that you read elsewhere, but let's see how much of this might actually apply to the S2000.
It is highly likely that you will find that the S2000 plugs are properly indexed when they are properly torqued. Besides, if you index the plugs as described, the torque will not be correct. Too much torque can strip the plug threads in the head, and too little torque can result in a blown plug. In the S2000, a blown plug can literally destroy the engine.
Do NOT do this with the S2000.
Debatable. A proper cool can full of alcohol and dry ice chilling the fuel doesn't make much difference, and just insulating the fuel lines is going to make even less. Maybe .00001 HP.
The S2000 IAT sensor is in the ideal location and in general it should not be relocated. The ECU needs an accurate measure of IAT to function properly and the car is likely lose rather than gain power if you try fool the IAT. Timing will not be advanced, and the mixture will not be improved.
Just about everyone is using synthetic in their S2000, so nothing to be gained here.
The engine temperature is controlled by a thermostat, so even if you had something that cooled 1000 times better than water, the engine would still operate at exactly the same temperature. No gain to be had here.
In the version of this I recall, number Six was "Block the heat riser." Older cars had hot spots in the intake manifold to prevent puddling, but the intake manifold on injected cars only carries air, so puddling is not a problem, and hot spots are no longer needed or used.
There are gains to be had by keeping the charge cooler, so this isn't total BS, but just bypassing the TB heating isn't going to buy enough to measure or notice.
Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) it's not easy to find cheap or free ways to get more power from the S2000 engines, but it's always good to look at ideas like these, because it's just as important to know what won't work as it is to know what will.
Not trying to diss your post Jirro22, 'cause I know you're just sharing something interesting that you read elsewhere, but let's see how much of this might actually apply to the S2000.
It is highly likely that you will find that the S2000 plugs are properly indexed when they are properly torqued. Besides, if you index the plugs as described, the torque will not be correct. Too much torque can strip the plug threads in the head, and too little torque can result in a blown plug. In the S2000, a blown plug can literally destroy the engine.
Do NOT do this with the S2000.
Debatable. A proper cool can full of alcohol and dry ice chilling the fuel doesn't make much difference, and just insulating the fuel lines is going to make even less. Maybe .00001 HP.
The S2000 IAT sensor is in the ideal location and in general it should not be relocated. The ECU needs an accurate measure of IAT to function properly and the car is likely lose rather than gain power if you try fool the IAT. Timing will not be advanced, and the mixture will not be improved.
Just about everyone is using synthetic in their S2000, so nothing to be gained here.
The engine temperature is controlled by a thermostat, so even if you had something that cooled 1000 times better than water, the engine would still operate at exactly the same temperature. No gain to be had here.
In the version of this I recall, number Six was "Block the heat riser." Older cars had hot spots in the intake manifold to prevent puddling, but the intake manifold on injected cars only carries air, so puddling is not a problem, and hot spots are no longer needed or used.
There are gains to be had by keeping the charge cooler, so this isn't total BS, but just bypassing the TB heating isn't going to buy enough to measure or notice.
Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) it's not easy to find cheap or free ways to get more power from the S2000 engines, but it's always good to look at ideas like these, because it's just as important to know what won't work as it is to know what will.
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Originally Posted by Clutch.,Dec 13 2007, 11:58 AM
1) as said, i dont believe indexing plugs will do much in these motors
2) cant hurt anything to add insulation (if done cleanly) but i doubt the fuel spends enough time in that little of line to effect it
4) as said, most people run synthetic anyways
3,5,6) these all seem like things that are going to hurt longevity of parts on your engine, for gains that i dont think would make a difference.
just my .02, there are always things to change and its good to be thinking, but at the cost some stuff isnt worth it
2) cant hurt anything to add insulation (if done cleanly) but i doubt the fuel spends enough time in that little of line to effect it
4) as said, most people run synthetic anyways
3,5,6) these all seem like things that are going to hurt longevity of parts on your engine, for gains that i dont think would make a difference.
just my .02, there are always things to change and its good to be thinking, but at the cost some stuff isnt worth it
if the IAT is mounted on the TB than the heat from the TB can cause incorrect readings of the incoming air.. (heat transfer) .. the S doesnt have it there so it doesnt even matter
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From: ca
Originally Posted by screaminyellow,Dec 13 2007, 09:14 AM
I have to agree with RED MX5, but with a few other notes to add
When people relocate the IAT to a cooler location what happens alot of times is that the location may be too cool and therefore not let the ecu go into closed loop mode.
As for the throttle body coolant bypass, I did this at the same time when I add a Hondata heat shield to the intake manifold. And the combination of the two seems to work pretty good
It takes a min or two longer to warm up in cold weather but the slight bump in performance is worth it to me
When people relocate the IAT to a cooler location what happens alot of times is that the location may be too cool and therefore not let the ecu go into closed loop mode.
As for the throttle body coolant bypass, I did this at the same time when I add a Hondata heat shield to the intake manifold. And the combination of the two seems to work pretty good
It takes a min or two longer to warm up in cold weather but the slight bump in performance is worth it to me 
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From: 茨城県
I have another to add to the list.
Get belt K060450 (or equivalent) from your local parts store. I found it at NAPA for $20.
This belt skips the A/C compressor which you will not be using in the winter or at the track. Belt takes 1 min to replace just by pulling the reverse-threaded bolt on the tensioner with a ratchet and then sliding it off.
The only potential negative effect is your compressor not spinning which I don't know if makes a difference. Just pop the belt back when you get home from the track if you're worried.
Although it's almost no gain, the a/c pulley does have some resistance so you will be getting >0hp for $20.
Get belt K060450 (or equivalent) from your local parts store. I found it at NAPA for $20.
This belt skips the A/C compressor which you will not be using in the winter or at the track. Belt takes 1 min to replace just by pulling the reverse-threaded bolt on the tensioner with a ratchet and then sliding it off.
The only potential negative effect is your compressor not spinning which I don't know if makes a difference. Just pop the belt back when you get home from the track if you're worried.
Although it's almost no gain, the a/c pulley does have some resistance so you will be getting >0hp for $20.
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From: 茨城県
Another reason to do the TB coolant bypass is to get rid of a considerable amount of nasty hoses+brackets in the engine bay. If you have an intake, you prolly had to use a different hose for the valve cover evap anyway so the joint coolant piece will be sticking out there.
If you don't do it for the heat, do it for a cleaner engine bay
Of course, this only applies to West/SW folks like me in AZ where freezeing is a foreign word.
If you don't do it for the heat, do it for a cleaner engine bay
Of course, this only applies to West/SW folks like me in AZ where freezeing is a foreign word.
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While I am aware that a thermostat opens/closes at a certain temperature, there is a benefit to running water for situations where you know you'll be running above that wide-open temperature. Personally, I run a water-water wetter combo in the track season. Only in the winter time do we add coolant for freezing protection/corrosion protection.
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From: Dry Branch
I also run water-wetter, because under extreme conditions it can help. Not exactly a quick way to add ponies though.
I run WW and water in my aftercooler in the summer, and antifreez and water in the winter. Probably makes a bigger difference there than in the cars radiator, because there is no thermostat and charge can potentially end up a little cooler even under "normal" conditions.
Every little bit helps.
I run WW and water in my aftercooler in the summer, and antifreez and water in the winter. Probably makes a bigger difference there than in the cars radiator, because there is no thermostat and charge can potentially end up a little cooler even under "normal" conditions.
Every little bit helps.
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on the water-water, i would expect that the slight reduction in internal fluid friction due to lower viscosity of the fluid would make a negligible reduction in the water pump load and therefore a negligible gain in torque, as seen by the intangible HP increase.
things like that are great though--thank goodness for the placebo effect, inspiring and making millions happy every day. two weeks later, (when its 50F, not 85F outside) you'll really feel the HP or TQ improvement from the new fluid
don't take this as bashing--i'm fondly remembering all the same type of things i've done! no better way to learn than to just go try ideas out and see what happens!
but don't get any ideas from "honda guys" (or audi guys for that matter) about using sand for a port and polish...
still laughing about that thread... ("you forgot to sand-polish the fuel system...")
things like that are great though--thank goodness for the placebo effect, inspiring and making millions happy every day. two weeks later, (when its 50F, not 85F outside) you'll really feel the HP or TQ improvement from the new fluid
don't take this as bashing--i'm fondly remembering all the same type of things i've done! no better way to learn than to just go try ideas out and see what happens!
but don't get any ideas from "honda guys" (or audi guys for that matter) about using sand for a port and polish...
still laughing about that thread... ("you forgot to sand-polish the fuel system...")