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Fuel injectors

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Old May 13, 2024 | 12:22 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by flanders
OEM S2000 injectors are 360cc these CR-V ones seems to be 260cc.
If it even starts and idles your misfires for sure will be even worse.
He's going to lean the motor out pretty substantially
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Old May 13, 2024 | 12:41 PM
  #12  
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360cc are the original huh. Ok. We'll I guess threw my 50 bucks away. I thought it would be ok. Thanks for that information. The crv injectors have almost identical numbers. I was thinking that the screens where the only difference to make them inject less.
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Old May 14, 2024 | 06:49 AM
  #13  
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Yes looks identical but the tiny difference in orifice is not something you can really see.
What did you mean with "screen"?
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Old May 14, 2024 | 10:44 AM
  #14  
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The screens inside of the injector.
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Old May 14, 2024 | 11:37 AM
  #15  
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Those are filters and does not affect flow unless they are clogged up.
You also can replace them.
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Old May 14, 2024 | 11:45 AM
  #16  
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Yes I know. I have already replaced them on the oem ones. Also cleaned them. I bought the crv one hoping it'll work out somehow replacing the screens to s2k ones. Part numbers are almost identical. Looks like it just has different screens and stuff that could be replaced with s2k ones. I inspect it thoroughly when I get them in to see. But for now the fuel pump is next on my to do list. It has 161k so I hope that's the issue I am having.
Ivan
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Old May 14, 2024 | 01:18 PM
  #17  
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Throwing parts at a problem is rarely cost effective or smart. Throwing the wrong parts at it, especially after being warned why not to, is just stupidity on crack.

Learning diy is encouraged. But that isn't what you're doing. You're just breaking your car forno reason. Please get help or take it to someone that has a clue.
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Old May 15, 2024 | 07:58 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
Throwing parts at a problem is rarely cost effective or smart. Throwing the wrong parts at it, especially after being warned why not to, is just stupidity on crack.

Learning diy is encouraged. But that isn't what you're doing. You're just breaking your car forno reason. Please get help or take it to someone that has a clue.
Your right throwing parts is not the right answer to fixing my issues. The way i see it is i bought this car from a young inthusiast which might or might not know what he was doing. When I got it it was in bad shape. Clutch was burnt. Vtec was leaking. Clutch selinoid and slave was bad. Was missing most of the sway bars. Had a crack control arm in the rear.

And I had no clue what he has done to fix the problem that it currently has. Car has 161k so me changing plugs and coils is a must due to being a new car to me. One of the members explained to me earlier that the injectors from the crv are not going to work so I won't be doing it. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump so will changing it out soon. I got a walbro 255. Hopefully that could fix the problem I am having. Yes it just throwing parts but in reality the car needs them anyways due to its age and mileage. This is my first project car that I bought recently and love to see her roar.

Last edited by Kraemer; May 15, 2024 at 08:02 AM.
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Old May 15, 2024 | 12:35 PM
  #19  
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Plugs yes, replace based on mileage. BTW, torque spec on those changed. Make usre newer spec used! Plugs can come loose, cause misfire, which soon breaks off tip of plug, which then scores up cylinder badly, destroying motor (to point can't be rebuilt).

Coils, injectors, fuel pump, those you don't replace based on miles or age, but if they go bad. This isn't a German car where you gotta be paranoid about changing stuff on a schedule.

Don't replace fuel pump unless there are signs its bad. Like low fuel pressure, etc. Which even then, might more likely be fuel pressure regulator.

Stock parts on this car are usually far and away higher quality and higher performing than aftermarket. Use stock parts unless there is a specific reason to use aftermarket.

For example, only people with turbo or sc use a higher rated fuel pump, which is needed when literally doubling engine output, which most forced induction systems do on this platform.

Same with fuel injectors.

For coils, people usually swap the one for the cylinder that is misfiring with a cylinder that is fine, see if code follows coil. Tells you if its bad or not. If all or most of cylinders are misfiring, its usually not the coils. They don't usually all go bad at once.

A bad job re installing valve cover (like after a valve adjustment) can cause oil leaks into plug tubes, resulting in misfires, as oil shorts out plug voltage. So rule that out first.

The clutch primary and follower cylinders rarely go bad. Leaks are usually from dirty fluid. Typically they stop leaking once you change fluid enough that fluid finally stays clean. Typically that takes several changes, as deposits keep recontaminating fresh fluid. Once contaminants finally gone, fluid stays clean, leaks stop.

But then you gotta keep it from ever getting dirty again. Siphon out reservoir every other oil change, wipe clean, fresh fluid, will keep clean long term.
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