HELP! Clutch problem
I have a 2001 Ap1. I recently paid a shop to replace my clutch with a science of speed clutch kit, pilot/throw out bearing, and flywheel. Since I got the car back, the clutch pedal feels different every time you push the clutch in. Under higher RPM, the clutch feels beautiful, the way it was meant to. Under normal driving the clutch is EXTREMELY stiff. Sometimes it feels like it’s caught on something, sometimes there is a “click” in the pedal as you press it that makes it feel like it was caught on something. After I took it back to the shop that did the work, they recommended the replacement of the master/slave cylinders. After completing that, the issue was still present with no improvement. When I took it back the third time, they did a full bleed of the system, still not fixed. I dropped the car back off this morning to try and sort out the problem. I have a supercharger from science of speed shipping in 20 days and would like to have the clutch feeling the way it should before hand. Any information would be extremely helpful. Thank you in advance.
RJ
RJ
Which of their kits did you get?
Very well could be that they did not properly lubricate the splines and throwout and pivot portion of the fork. Could also be an issue with the clutch. But if you did not have these issues prior then there was no reason for them to suspect the slave or master cylinder.
Very well could be that they did not properly lubricate the splines and throwout and pivot portion of the fork. Could also be an issue with the clutch. But if you did not have these issues prior then there was no reason for them to suspect the slave or master cylinder.
^yeah...which kit?
Beyond that...
Did they replace the release bearing guide?
Always buy a new release bearing guide.
What grease did they use for the splines, pivots, and release bearing guide?
If they used anti-seize to "lube" the above, the whole thing will need to come apart, get cleaned, and you'll want to use Honda HT urea to regrease it.
You'll also want to find a more competent shop in this case, as they probably put it back together as one would assemble a tractor.
I am betting heavily that they didn't properly grease the moving parts and that the guide was never replaced. Its probably bone ass dry or covered in anti-seize. :smh:
I think they're a little lost, judging by the recommendation to change master/slave cyls, and bleeding the air resolve the issue you're having. Air in the system or leaks in the system make the pedal EASIER to press. Not harder.
Questions to ask before saying "yes" next time someone suggests throwing parts at the car. These are helpful for any situation, generally....
Basically....ask why/how would a new one solve the issue before saying, "yeah, here's more money to buy parts".
They only changed the clutch. Why did they assume other parts all of a sudden failed?
Usually, I find that if you ask the questions first...it prompts them to take a step back and check the work they just completed, instead of asking you to bankroll some long-shot experiment.
youknowwhatImean?
Beyond that...
Did they replace the release bearing guide?
Always buy a new release bearing guide.
What grease did they use for the splines, pivots, and release bearing guide?
If they used anti-seize to "lube" the above, the whole thing will need to come apart, get cleaned, and you'll want to use Honda HT urea to regrease it.
You'll also want to find a more competent shop in this case, as they probably put it back together as one would assemble a tractor.
I am betting heavily that they didn't properly grease the moving parts and that the guide was never replaced. Its probably bone ass dry or covered in anti-seize. :smh:
I think they're a little lost, judging by the recommendation to change master/slave cyls, and bleeding the air resolve the issue you're having. Air in the system or leaks in the system make the pedal EASIER to press. Not harder.
Questions to ask before saying "yes" next time someone suggests throwing parts at the car. These are helpful for any situation, generally....
- Why or how would the failure make it more difficult to push the clutch all of a sudden, and only during certain conditions?
- Why did they fail right as the new clutch went in?
- What is the likelihood or reasoning behind BOTH failing simultaneously?
- What brand or type are they recommending, and why would replacing them change the outcome of the issue you're having?
- Who's paying for them if they don't resolve the issue?
Basically....ask why/how would a new one solve the issue before saying, "yeah, here's more money to buy parts".
They only changed the clutch. Why did they assume other parts all of a sudden failed?
Usually, I find that if you ask the questions first...it prompts them to take a step back and check the work they just completed, instead of asking you to bankroll some long-shot experiment.
youknowwhatImean?
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