So around october i decided to pull the trigger and buy the s.o.s sport clutch, after reading about it i felt it would be a perfect match to my car, im bone stock and just wanted a harder grabbing clutch. Now i dont beat up my cars but i do love getting it in the 9k range every now and then ( as we all do ) so once again i was like yeah this setup is perfect. Clutch was installed by a professional mechanic, and worked great,.... Up until a week ago. Fast forward 10k miles later and the clutch staryed slipping under load in 5th and 6th, now like i said i dont beat on my car but i just assumed that maybe it was just glazed or something, or too hot, who knows. Well the car sat for 2 days while i was at my gf's, when it came time to leave on sunday i realized the clutch wasnt glazed, the clutch was shot, and load in any gear and it just slips then grabs. Immediately brought it to the mechanic to check and make sure nothing leaked on it. Or that my master and slave were ok, i basically ruled out every possible mechanical cause whether it could affect it or not. Everything is fine and operational, minus the clutch. I have yet to contact s.o.s about this but imcurious if anyone else has had this clutch, and possibly the same problem ??? Like i said the clutch went from perfectly fine to royally shot in a week, its slipping, and the engagement point is so high on the pedal now that i know its done, worn to nothing. Bone stock car, with nothing but maybe spirited driving, never raced, never dumped a clutch, never slipped the clutch bad to the point of smell and smoke, basically its my dd so i cant beat on her. If you have experienced anything similar please let me know how ypu went about rectifying it. Or if anything was done to help ?? I basically dont want to get jerked around by s.o.s , but ill give them the benefit of the doubt until i talk to them and disassemble the trans to see the cause.

 

As I was reading your post, the first thing that came to mind was that it sounded like your clutch pedal might have been adjusted incorrectly, which can accellerate wear. Then when you mentioned that your clutch engagement point is very high, it kind of confirmed it. How much free play did you have in the clutch pedal before?

 

BTW, it's still possible that your clutch is just severely glazed, and could be fixed by adjusting your clutch pedal.

 

The clutch pedal was readjusted when the new clutch was installed and the engagement point was only a few inches above the floor, i like a quick clutch. It stayed that way for almost the entire time, mind you i really really enjoyed this clutch, but then out of no where it started to slip, i didnt push it after realizing it. I figured maybe it got hot or mildly glazed, i didnt do anything wrong i just never thought the clutch was this bad so soon. It sat for the weekend and when i was driving back home the clutch engagement point rapidly started to get higher and the slipping got worse and worse. After an inspection the conclusion is that theres nothing not operating improperly other than the clutch, and until its actually out of the car i wont be able to say 100% what it is. But i can safely say the clutch is dead no doubt,. I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue and what their cause was ??

 

The only part of this thats bothering me is that the clutch is rated for over 300hp and double the clamping force, my car is bone stock, and the clutch should last 5x longer than stock, it only lasted 10k, i really need to get it taken apart and inspect it properly, but if the clutch disc is seriously done and theres something faulty with the setup, am i gonna be covered at all, or is it a case of buyer beware and maybe i just got a faulty disc or pp, and not much i can do about it

 

It still sounds like there is clearly an issue with your clutch pedal adjustment, since the engagement / disengagement point should NOT change as the clutch disk wears out.

 

I completely agree, im actually going to inspect the pedal adjustment in a little bit, im confounded as to how it would have changed, and so drastically. Im looking at it with my friend after work, ill report back

 

idk mine is feather light compaired to my oem, i did put SS lines in, and i seem to recall a few other posts saying their SOS clutch was jacked after only a few thousand miles. Also, mine chatters like mad when i reverse, forward its fine, i also hear this is common.

 

Oh yeah in reverse it was always chatter happy, but after thoroughly inspecting everything, the only cause for this extreme wear is the either a faulty clutch disk, or problem with the pressure plate, everything is mechanically sound and working, and after taking measurements everything with is correct with my pedal height as well, the reason the clutch is engaging so high can only be because theres almost no clutch left. Theres no leaking fluids, the fluids are topped and clean, theres no air in the lines. Even inspected underneath the car,... Absolutely nothing. Im going to have to call s.o.s in the morning and see whay can be done. If they want me to remove it and send it to them for inspection its what im going to have to do. This just makes zero sense for a 400+ hp clutch to be bad in 10k miles on a bone stock car. Im teally hoping they dont just shaft me because right now i cant afford another clutch kit, nor be without a car until i can afford it,... Ughhh this sux, but please to make clear im not bad mouthing s.o.s in any way shape or form, like i said this clutch has been amazing up until this point. I just hope their customer service is understanding and if its the parts that are defective that their willing to sort it out

 

Thats about the dumbest thing i've ever heard. Of course the engagement point changes as the clutch wears. Don't give people false info when you obviously do not know what your talking about. Every hydrolic cluth starts with a low pedal engagement point that slowly gets higher and higher as the disk wears out. The fingers on the pressure plate slowly move inward (or outward depending on the type of clutch) as the disk becomes thinner, causing the engagement point to change. On some cars, like ours, you can compensate for the change by adjusting the clutch pedal rod. Many manual cars don't even have this adjustment. As long as there's free play in the pedal and the master cyl is returning all the way back, it doesn't matter where the pedal is actually adjusted too. I'm gonna say driver error or installer error. I have had customers that burned out clutches in less than 10k miles because they didn't know how to drive a manual properly or were abusing the car. I've also had customers go 200k on a clutch before it went. Its also possible there's grease or oil on the disk which will cause quick failure as well. I've redone more than one clutch that an installer ruined by slathering grease all over the pilot shaft, or that a leaking rear main had coated in oil. Pull the tranny and inspect the disk. You'll quickly find out the problem. Clutches just don't burn out. The sos is just a heavier pressure plate on a stock disk anyway. Its nothing special.
Good luck getting it sorted out.