i just finished installing koyo radiator, mugen switch / thermostat / cap / samco hose / hondata img

during the install i:
removed all the intake manifold components / plugs & wires to get to the upper radiator hose + install the hondata img.
I cleaned the throttle body / intake manifold along with all the exposed parts that had years of grime build up.

filled up the radiator with new fluid 50/50 etc (used the full car manual for the amount of liters required)

started the car and a second later i get a check engine light that stays on.
is this normal from unplugging & plugging back the switches?
is there something that the ecu processes and learns?

8/20/08 update..
things that caused problems (vacuum leaks => bogging / revving / all sorts of stuff):
- cracked throttle body gasket
- missing bottlecap sized intake component
- collapsed / leaking hose from the oil catch reservoir's hose
- anything that connected to the intake manifold had to be rechecked

 

did u forget to unplug the battery before starting all this work??

 

Also, did you make sure all the sensors are plugged back in?

Just the other day, I unplugged my MAP sensor, and resetted the computer. When I went to start the car (after thinking I had plugged the MAP back in), low and behold, the dreaded Check Engine light came on. Looking over the engine again, I realized the plug that goes into the MAP sensor wasn't seated all the way in. So I just snugged it back up, and reset the computer again...no more Check Engine light.

 

no i have not.

but during the middle of the work, something dropped and it's this thing:


i think that goes somewhere near the intake component.. but i don't seem to find a specific shape that would fit it

would that fix the engine light?

 

is your engine having any sort of problems with the CEL??

if not, reset your ECU and see if it comes back on.

it may also be caused by the radiator because it takes awhile to warm up the fluid since it holds much more

 

look on your intake...If you have a stock box there should be something that looks like a little sensor where the intake arm meets the airbox. Find the sensor and then simply plug that piece onto it. (there should be like a stick sticking out of the sensor)

hope that helps

 

thx! i put it back where it belongs

update:
i reset the check engine light.
it came back on after making a trip to the dealer to buy a throttle body gasket (my old gasket is cracked) the car started to rev quickly between 500rpms (up and down, up and down, over and over again). And then my car starts flash "maintanence required".

I opened my hood with the engine running & noticed my oil catch can's hose were collapsed from the vacuum pressure. I went and bought a fuel line instead this time (the braided hose collapsed).

also my catch can's hose line wasn't fully clamped air tight (possible vacuum leak).
also my throttle body's gasket is cracked a bit (another possible vacuum leak).

when i induce-rev my car, the rev bounces up and down by it self (it sort of occillates)

by tuesday i'll be replacing the throttle body gasket,
reinstalling the oil catch can hoses / clamping them properly
and we'll see what happens.

restating the problems:
1. constant up and down revving
2. bogging
3. check engine light
4. maintenance required light

recapping the work i have done to the car:
intake manifold removal
hondata img installation
unplugging of sensors to do the job
unplugging the hoses
samco hose
radiator
radiator lines (to do the job)

By tuesday:
replace throttle body gasket
replace catch can hose / clamps
replace catch can o ring seal (husky)
inspect the fuel injectors
inspect the spark plugs for any moisture
inspect the combustion chamber for any fluid
recheck the intake / vacuum lines

 

It sounds like it was because of your catch can hoses. I used to fuel injector hoses and they don't collapse like the "cheaper" hoses that come with some of the catch cans. If you have a vacuum leak/problem, that'll cause the idle fluctuations. I got a CEL when I removed my catch can vacuum to Seafoam the intake manifold. Just took it to a local shop, they cleared it and I'm back to normal

 

yea. i felt a bit shady buying the clear braided hoses for the catch can. should've just stayed with the fuel hose instead. I bought a fuel line hose instead of a fuel injector hose this time. the fuel injector hose was 4.99 dollars a foot. so I thought i'd give the regular fuel line hose a try & pay less

i think alot of the catch can kits come with the clear braided to make it look good. it really doesn't do the job for long esp with the heat. i was surprised mine collapsed. no wonder my car started to whistle through every rpm

this also explains why i haven't been getting any oil in the catch can too.......

 

I had similar problems with my civic when my tps went bad