installed samco / rad / hondata img
Originally Posted by P-CarDriver,Aug 17 2008, 12:47 AM
I had similar problems with my civic when my tps went bad
I dried it with paper towels.
Could this have damaged it?
Originally Posted by krnmike,Aug 17 2008, 12:08 PM
i cleaned the throttle body with the TPS in it (but disconnected wires) with Carb Cleaner.
I dried it with paper towels.
Could this have damaged it?
I dried it with paper towels.
Could this have damaged it?
otherwise... seek a professional.
up and down revving usually indicates a vacuum leak somewhere... check your gaskets and hoses (if this problem wasn't present before you messed with it).
good luck.
ok guys,
- rechecked intake air flow hose clamps (tighten them all)
- replaced the oil catch can's hose & tighten them well
(went from braided clear hose to fuel hose)
results:
- check engine light is gone
there were a couple threads about how the engine would rev up and down due to a faulty TPS (throttle position sensor).. before jumping to that conclusion make sure you also check all the hose connections on your intake manifold.
also check the quality of the hose and make sure they are connected properly (if you squeeze some of them by their tips, it will whistle (obvious) which indicates lack of clamping power - leading to vacuum leak. also make sure the hoses are still in circular shape and not an oval.
conclusion:
the check engine light was due to the faulty braided hose that i used for my catch can...
at idle, air would leak in from the slits that haven't been clamped down fully.
at revs, the hose would shut tight (collapse) and let barely any air through.
this would somehow be related to the constant quick revving between 500rpms.
thx guys
- rechecked intake air flow hose clamps (tighten them all)
- replaced the oil catch can's hose & tighten them well
(went from braided clear hose to fuel hose)
results:
- check engine light is gone
there were a couple threads about how the engine would rev up and down due to a faulty TPS (throttle position sensor).. before jumping to that conclusion make sure you also check all the hose connections on your intake manifold.
also check the quality of the hose and make sure they are connected properly (if you squeeze some of them by their tips, it will whistle (obvious) which indicates lack of clamping power - leading to vacuum leak. also make sure the hoses are still in circular shape and not an oval.
conclusion:
the check engine light was due to the faulty braided hose that i used for my catch can...
at idle, air would leak in from the slits that haven't been clamped down fully.
at revs, the hose would shut tight (collapse) and let barely any air through.
this would somehow be related to the constant quick revving between 500rpms.
thx guys
it's the hoes that always cause the problems
on a more serious note, here's what happened to the braided clear hose (bought from nearby lowe's / homedepot / etc):


^^that's the result of multiple high heat cycles. for those that don't know, the weavings in there is to help its structure during vacuum (basically an air hose).
unforunately it wasn't created for high heat.
that part of the hose was right on top of the head.

top: still in great structure
bottom: collapsed and damaged weavings
on a more serious note, here's what happened to the braided clear hose (bought from nearby lowe's / homedepot / etc):


^^that's the result of multiple high heat cycles. for those that don't know, the weavings in there is to help its structure during vacuum (basically an air hose).
unforunately it wasn't created for high heat.
that part of the hose was right on top of the head.
top: still in great structure
bottom: collapsed and damaged weavings
Good deal, thanks for the info.
Yeah, I'm doing the Mugen fan switch/thermostat/radiator cap, Hondata IMG, and a set of black Samco hoses. We compared the Samco hoses to the stock ones and, while they have the same bends as stock, they look like they're smaller ... what about yours?
I don't think that you're supposed to use the Mugen radiator cap w/ a Koyo radiator, Koyo has a different nozzle than stock so you have to use a cap designed to work w/ the Koyo.
Yeah, I'm doing the Mugen fan switch/thermostat/radiator cap, Hondata IMG, and a set of black Samco hoses. We compared the Samco hoses to the stock ones and, while they have the same bends as stock, they look like they're smaller ... what about yours?
I don't think that you're supposed to use the Mugen radiator cap w/ a Koyo radiator, Koyo has a different nozzle than stock so you have to use a cap designed to work w/ the Koyo.
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