installing coilovers
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From: Va beach
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
You're going to want to do that.
You have to tighten all the bolts that are affected while the car is at ride height. If not, you'll wear out and tear bushings. If you've ever looked at bushing prices for this car, you'll regret not doing it based on price alone.
Clocking bushings:
These are the ones you need to clock:
Front: UCA to chassis, LCA to shock.
Rear: UCA to chassis, LCA to chassis (both points. One in the subframe in plain sight and one on the subframe that's right behind where the seats are), LCA to shock.
1.) Jack the whole car up. Put it on 4 jack stands. Loosen all the bolts I mentioned above.
2.) Pick a corner. Jack up the LCA on that corner as close to the hub as possible. If your jack has a rubber pad, you can jack up on the ball joint. Jack it up till the car comes off the jackstand in that corner.
3.) Tighten the loosened bolts for that corner.
4.) Repeat for all corners.
The bushings must be tightened at ride height as they twist when the suspension goes thru it's motions. If they are tightened up in the air while the suspension is at full droop, they are allready over worked when the car is just sitting at ride height. Then you hit bumps, etc etc. and it gets worse.
You MUST clock the bushings for whatever ride height you have. So if you drastically change ride height (more than a 0.25 or 0.5'' difference), reclock the bushings.
It takes 10 mins and $0. Putting in new bushings costs $1billion and takes tons of agony and time. So do it as soon as you get a chance. Spread the word.
You have to tighten all the bolts that are affected while the car is at ride height. If not, you'll wear out and tear bushings. If you've ever looked at bushing prices for this car, you'll regret not doing it based on price alone.
Clocking bushings:
These are the ones you need to clock:
Front: UCA to chassis, LCA to shock.
Rear: UCA to chassis, LCA to chassis (both points. One in the subframe in plain sight and one on the subframe that's right behind where the seats are), LCA to shock.
1.) Jack the whole car up. Put it on 4 jack stands. Loosen all the bolts I mentioned above.
2.) Pick a corner. Jack up the LCA on that corner as close to the hub as possible. If your jack has a rubber pad, you can jack up on the ball joint. Jack it up till the car comes off the jackstand in that corner.
3.) Tighten the loosened bolts for that corner.
4.) Repeat for all corners.
The bushings must be tightened at ride height as they twist when the suspension goes thru it's motions. If they are tightened up in the air while the suspension is at full droop, they are allready over worked when the car is just sitting at ride height. Then you hit bumps, etc etc. and it gets worse.
You MUST clock the bushings for whatever ride height you have. So if you drastically change ride height (more than a 0.25 or 0.5'' difference), reclock the bushings.
It takes 10 mins and $0. Putting in new bushings costs $1billion and takes tons of agony and time. So do it as soon as you get a chance. Spread the word.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
Get an alignment as some of the bushings you clocked are attatched to alignment bolts.
I think I may have left out the front LCA to chassis....but that gets clocked during an alignment. Clock it anyway.
The way to do the alignment bolts is to make a mark with a dry erase marker where the alignment marks line up. Then when you clock it, you can just match up the dry erase marks.
I think I may have left out the front LCA to chassis....but that gets clocked during an alignment. Clock it anyway.
The way to do the alignment bolts is to make a mark with a dry erase marker where the alignment marks line up. Then when you clock it, you can just match up the dry erase marks.
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