Then let's hear it...Set me straight. The info I displayed was told to me by certified Honda mechanic. I can go in different threads as well and call people out but not explain and set them straight so they actually learn so they don't spread "missinformation". I'm willing to learn and maybe run this by my mechanic.

 

wow! Your car looks and sounds like mine!

Just curious, did you have to mod anthing to get the bar underneath to fit? Cause...mine doesn't...

Here's a pic of mine! Old and dirty pic! Bought mine from N1 concepts too!!

 

No my exhaust fit perfectly the only thing is the cel that came on so i am working on getting that fixed at the moment but it is a great exhaust dont you agree not that loud if you can control throttle level and gear. I LOVE MY 70rr share you feelings. I feel like people think and have heard this exhaust is unbearable so let them no!

I like the color

 

preston get a sparkplug defouler and drill it out to I forget what size.... same thing as a cel fix.

 

Challenge taken.

Your ECU is either in one of two modes in operation: open or closed loop. 95% of the time in normal everyday driving, you're in closed loop. Closed loop is also a way of stating the ECU is taking feedback from the primary o2 sensor in order to keep the a/f mixture at stoich (~14.7 on gas). Stoich is air fuel mixture where gas burns the most efficiently and also where most motors are happy when crusing or under light load. There are two trims under closed loop feedback, short term and long term. As you drive over time, the ECU automatically adds or subtracts fuel (in closed loop) to keep the air fuel at ~14.7. How much it + or - is called the short fuel trim and it is expressed as a percentage. The closer the car is in health and the environment in which Honda programmed the stock ECU, the smaller this value will be. It is CONSTANTLY changing (every couple of secs) based on ambient temp, air filter restrictions, elevation, etc etc. Over time, the ECU is smart enough to know that within the last X amount of time (I don't remember the interval) that the average correction it had to make at certain load breakpoints was 'X'% and it applies that percentage across the board (again still in closed loop). This is called the long term trim. This doesn't change as often. Now on to open loop - when you go wide open throttle, the rise in RPM's is very linear and won't be affected as strongly by the aforementioned factors. The o2 feedback is turned OFF and the fuel values are derived from the table in the ECU with no changes. Doesn't matter how big your exhaust is or how Mugen your intake is, the ECU tells the injectors to deliver the same amount of fuel to the motor as if it was stock. So even if you have a CEL for a bad o2, at WOT its going to run the exact same as if it was working properly. All a bad o2 does is effectively force the ECU to run in open loop ALL the time, which means no A/F correction outside of what Honda programmed to be universally safe for the car - which is obviously rich. But again, this only affects light load & cruise. As soon as you transition past ~ 60% (again can't remember the exact parameters) throttle, the ECU would have switched itself into closed loop anyway and a bad o2 becomes a moot point.

Also, bonus information - 00-05 ECU's run narrowband o2 sensors which can only read a very small a/f range. 06+ have wideband o2's which have a much higher fidelity of range.

How do I know all this? Because I have kpro and I've WATCHED this all happen in real time when I was learning the system.

So know that you know all this, you will understand:

- When your ECU is reset, the long term trims are reset. This is the ONLY thing that is reset that affects fueling.
- VAFC's only tune a limited amount of RPM range. The ECU will tune out its corrections if they're applied in closed loop.
- The car will still run (seemingly fine except a little richer) if the o2 sensor is malfunctioning or disconnected.

And now you know. Hope thats all clear.

 

The common quick way (and the way I am running mine) is to get the spacer/adapter that goes between the o2 sensor and the exhaust. It may run a little rich, but you will not throw a cel and it won't kill your car.. Running the sensor dirrectly on the exhaust will probably shorten the life span (unburned fuel).

 

Be more specific. Running a defouler on the secondary o2 doesn't change how the car runs, just makes sure the o2 doesn't throw a code.

Running an o2 directly on the exhaust does not shorten its life span. After all, that's what it was designed for. It would have to be leaded fuel or an EXTREME amount of fuel and/or eat to cause damage

 

yoooo well get me one at at AAP and can we drill it at Chelsea's since her dad has a drill its 1/2 in i read up on that last night just did not think it would work right

 

hey homer nice video btw cant wait to receive mine Vividracing messsed up on my order so they gotta go back and make me one of the older verion since they only make fx-pro you like it I also wanna get the newest one but heard they have more dron and is louder at higher RPMs hows the exhaust when driving around town no getting pulled over?