I searched and searched and finally found a new FIPK V2 on ebay for $213, including shipping so I bought it. I received the FIPK 5 days after ordering it and immediately installed it. The install was relatively easy since I had already removed the stock air box for my previously installed K&N Typhoon. As others who have installed this intake have mentioned, the hardest part was installing the rubber seal on the intake box and that wasn’t really that difficult. Everything lined up and fit perfectly.

People who say that this intake sucks in too much hot air from the engine bay are dead wrong. I can drive the car around on the highway or in stop and go traffic and as soon as I get home I can pop the hood and feel the filter. It is cool to the touch, not warm, cool! In fact, I question some people claims that in regards to air flow, the S2000 engine bay is of poor design. In fact, after an hour long drive I noticed that most of the metal in the front corner of the engine bay was cool to the touch. Even the front part of the passenger side strut tower was cool to the touch. My laser thermometer confirmed this to be true. I do have the passenger side front fake vent cut out. I noticed that the metal around the front inner engine bay port (the one that the front fake vent provides air to when cut out) was also cool to the touch.

As most of you FIPK owners know, the horn and intake are right near the engine bay hole. My laser thermometer proved that the horn and plastic portion of the filter were the same temp as the front license plate. As I said, I got the readings not even 30 secs after my long drive.

The best you can hope for from a cold air intake is that it takes in air at or as close as possible to the temperature of the ambient air. This intake performs this task very well. If it is 110 out you are simply S.O.L.

As soon as I get some more $ I will buy cooling plate to focus more air cool air into the FIPK.

My K&N typhoon performed well too. The filter was exposed just behind the front passenger fake air vent. My laser thermometer proved that after long drives the plastic portion of the filter was just as cool as my license plate. The only reason I changed intakes was because I was always nerves about driving in the rain. I had the aqua sock thing installed but it always bothered me in the back of my head. I also didn’t like the fact that I had to cut the fender liner and under panel. I bought both plastic pieces and replaced them as well (not cheap). When I sell my Typhoon I will sell it with the pre-cut plastics so that the next owner can save their originals.

Now I just need to figure out how to post with pics so I can show you guys the temperature readings and post my old typhoon for sale…

 

Great analysis. Thanks

 

Cool write up,. great intake. Just sold mine to get the Injen CARB legal cold air.

 

From my experience, measuring the temperature of the filter media and/or intake pipe is a poor indicator of air temp entering the engine.

 

Who did you buy it off of for $213? I was looking & couldnt find that price? Is it a generation 2 version?

 

Why would you think that? I'm not saying you are wrong I'm just curious. I understand that different types of materials conduct and dissipate heat differently so there will be some variance in temperatures but the filters temperature should be pretty close to the temperature of the air moving through it. If the air is warmer the filter will be warmer, If the air is cooler the filter will be cooler. I confirmed this by taking readings from the front bumper (plastic) and license plate then comparing. I did this in the day while it was warmer and at night while the air was cooler, each time all temperature readings corresponded. They were not exact but pretty close.

For my next test I plan on getting 2 remote temperature sensors and mounting one on the filter and the other outside of the car so I can compare the ambient air temperature with the air flowing by the filter. The best you can hope for is the smallest temperature differential as possible. I would imagine that the differential would be at it's greatest when sitting still and at it's smallest when on the highway. What I am most interested in finding out is how quickly the temperature differential increase once you have come to a stop and how quickly it decrease when you start moving again. My hope is that this information will give me some ideas on minor alterations I could make (and test) to keep the temperature differential as small as possible. At minimum, this information should help me anticipate heat bog better...

Either way, it seems as though the FIPK does a pretty good job of getting cool air into the engine with the fake front air vent cut out.

I should also note that I did block the TP/IM coolant lines. This is temporary until I can get a Hondata gasket installed.

 

I got it from carparts.com through ebay motors. Yes, it was the gen 2. The price on the site now is $299 but I do see other ebay sites selling it for $249 with shipping included (I search for S2000 FIPK). I guess I got lucky, $213 with shipping was so reticules that I had to buy it. The K&N part number is 57-3514. It comes with all the parts you'll need for an AP1, AP2 or Drive by wire AP2.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

I just got this myself as well this year and couldn't be happier! Glad you're enjoying yours!

 

Thanks, that's a pretty solid deal (and at least the OP already bought one through them). I'm going FI sometime this year, but for that price, it's not a bad interim upgrade!

What's the scoop on FIPK and AP2 and/or 06+ cars? Do you have to tap an extra vacuum line?









BTW Burt, I loved you in Gator.