Oh my gosh ... what's up with all the a-holes coming out of the woodwork around here?

Before you start telling people they don't know what they are talking about, why don't you try learning a little about the topic yourself? You are getting it backwards here, since it's cable clutches that change as they wear. That's the advantage of using a hydraulic clutch! Does your brake pedal have to be readjusted as your brake pads wear?!? NO!

BTW, before you start claiming that your brake pedal does change as the pads wear ... that's different. That's just a change in the firmness of the pedal, not the engagement point.

 

Japthewar is a smart guy, and he is also a mechanic, im going to have to say i believe he is right, because as the fluid pressure opens up the pressure plate off the clutch disk, the point would in fact change, albeit slightly. just saying. now back to the guys initial point, i anxiously await hearing the outcome.

 

eh im under the impression slave cylinders are self adjusting. As the clutch wears, the rod on the slave gets longer. Making up for any clutch wear by always keeping that rod on the fork.

Too much pedal throw can block a valve inside the master cylinder though. If this happens it will stop the slave from self adjusting.

 

Ok guys come on no fighting here, our clutches do self adjust and the pedal height doesnt change the friction point does. My clutch grabbed perfectly fine then within days went to grabbing super high, and slipping. And your right in assuming maybe something leaked onto it, or something malfunctioned, but from what i can see theres no leaks, and everything is working fine. The only thing not working right now is the clutch. And ill take no offense to the cant properly drive a manual trans, because lets be honest im no ayrton senna, but what i am is 32 years old and iv been driving manual cars my whole life since i was 17,... And well to be honest i know when a clutch is bad, this is bad. I may not be as mechanically inclined as say a mechanic, but i know my way around things, and if i dont i ask questions. Which is what this thread was, im asking if anyone else has experienced this problem. But what needs to be done is this clutch has to be removed and a new one put in, and ill guarantee once this clutch is out, the problems going to lie with the pressure plate guaranteed.

 

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/847.../page__st__125

Check the post by Torque Obsessed

 

THIS! The only engagement point that changes as the clutch disk wears is at the release fork. The slave cylinder will always keep a constant force on the release fork while disengaged, so as the disk gets thinner, the slave cylinder piston automatically extends. The engagement point at the pedal is always determined by the pushrod and clutch switch adjustment at the pedal assembly. As PureFunction said, you have to make sure that there is at least some free play in the pushrod, or the master cylinder won't be able to release all the fluid pressure back into the reservoir. If pressure does build up between the master cylinder and slave cylinder, the clutch will begin to disengage (and slip).

 

Look guys. I have installed well over 150 clutches in my now 16 year career as a mechanic. With a very large majority of those being hydrolic actuated clutches. As the disk wears the position in the pedal travel that the clutch engages gets farther and farther towards the top. You can argue this point all you want, but the fact is as the disk wears the pedal will catch higher. I have installed four different clutches in my own car, and over a dozen in other s2ks. Each and every one of them started with the pedal catching close to the floor. Mysteriously enough every one of them came in with the pedal engagement at the top when the clutch was worn out. I have done three clutches in the last two weeks, all hydrolic. All with the same result. The slave cylinder rod does not does not adjust the clutch, it mearly maintains contact with the release fork. The master and slave move the release bearing the exact same distance every time you mash the pedal, regardless of the thickness of the disk. The engagement point is determined by how far the springs in the plate must be compressed to release the disk. The thicker the disk the further the springs must be compressed. Hence the low engagement point. I installed motor mounts on a 01 car today with a worn clutch. The engagement point was considerably higher than the new clutch in my own car. Both cars have exactly the same amount of free play in the pedal. To the Op. I will say again I think you'll find your problem was installer related. I didn't intend to derail your thread or hurt anyones feelings. The fact is what was told to you was wrong. Argue it all you want, I know what i'm talking about.

 

Oh no believe me i totally agree with you, and i know your 100% correct, the friction point rises as the clutch wears. Hence self adjusting clutch, i may be wrong in my thinking but im almost positive that the engagement point rises as theres less and less material on the disc. My worry with the whole situation is on a clutch kit rated for 400hp how could a stock car with mechanically sound slave and master cylinders wear out said clutch in 10k miles, a theory was proposed to me that actually makes sense but until its out of the car i wont know for sure, but the theory is that the pressure plate is affected by the disc spinning at high rpm's and it will actually start to shave the disc little by little until its almost gone and constantly slipping. But like i said i wont know until its apart.

 

And as a side note, if i was racing the car or slipping the clutch , or always riding the clutch, believe me id admit it, because shit then its my fault. But im being 100% honest when i say i dont screw around with the car since its my daily, and at this point i really cant afford to constantly break things

 

Science of Speed has a great reputation. Interested to hear if they can keep a customer happy.