Rigid Collars crazy quote
Hey guys
Got quoted 6hours labour to install the rigid collars, which makes little sense because i hear some get it done within 2 hours.
My mechanic is new to the S2k but after looking underneath it he isnt sure if he can lower the front subframe to put the collars in, even though it only has to hang about 2.5cm ( 1 inch) to fit them in between the chassis and subframe.
He is under the impression he will need to disconnect the engine moutns and hold the engine while subframe is down, so it doesnt stress the hoses... also he mentioned something about the steering rack needing to be disconnected or something to lower the frame down.
Not sure how to explain to him because the instructions are in Japanese.
hoping anyone with experience knows about the steering rack and etc.
Got quoted 6hours labour to install the rigid collars, which makes little sense because i hear some get it done within 2 hours.
My mechanic is new to the S2k but after looking underneath it he isnt sure if he can lower the front subframe to put the collars in, even though it only has to hang about 2.5cm ( 1 inch) to fit them in between the chassis and subframe.
He is under the impression he will need to disconnect the engine moutns and hold the engine while subframe is down, so it doesnt stress the hoses... also he mentioned something about the steering rack needing to be disconnected or something to lower the frame down.
Not sure how to explain to him because the instructions are in Japanese.
hoping anyone with experience knows about the steering rack and etc.
thats what im thinking.
will see how i go have to see him again to talk about it.
so no need to d/c the steering rack?
theres a pic of the steering rack in the instructions but i dont know what its saying about it.
will see how i go have to see him again to talk about it.
so no need to d/c the steering rack?
theres a pic of the steering rack in the instructions but i dont know what its saying about it.
wont be going back there, will take it to another place, Perth Australia seems to lack specialists we have very rubbish tuning shops.
have to rely on normal shops
I disconnected the rack. Its one bolt. No big deal. Just have to mark it before disconnecting, so you can realign to same spot when reconnecting mark both ends of joint with an alignment mark). Also need to make sure you don't turn steering with it disconnected, else the airbag clock spring cable can be damaged. Expensive. Yeah, there is also a cover you have to remove to get to the joint, but again, not a big deal.
To do the install, get car up on stands. Remove wheels. Then you crack all 6 subframe bolts loose. Then leave the 2 center bolts in place, and loosen the 4 corner bolts to ~30mm. Now remove the 2 center bolts, so subframe lowers and rests on 4 corner bolts. Put collars in place in center bolt locations, put bolts back in, hand tighten so bolt heads just touch subframe. Now do one corner at a time. Remove bolt, put in collar, reinstall bolt so bolt head just touchs subframe.
Now tighten the 4 corners, little by little, so subframe raised evenly. Now tighten center bolts. Torque all 6 bolts down.
Same procedure above for both front and rear subframes. Except disconnect steering from rack for front, and in rear you need to remove the cover on driver side front of subframe. 3 bolts, 10mm, no big deal.
Use the copper grease that comes with the kit. Make sure you put the collars in right side up. Can be difficult to tell one end from other once they are covered in the grease.
I had someone read me the directions and translate. Didn't get a chance to actually write any of it down though. But its not a difficult job at all. An easy diy.
To do the install, get car up on stands. Remove wheels. Then you crack all 6 subframe bolts loose. Then leave the 2 center bolts in place, and loosen the 4 corner bolts to ~30mm. Now remove the 2 center bolts, so subframe lowers and rests on 4 corner bolts. Put collars in place in center bolt locations, put bolts back in, hand tighten so bolt heads just touch subframe. Now do one corner at a time. Remove bolt, put in collar, reinstall bolt so bolt head just touchs subframe.
Now tighten the 4 corners, little by little, so subframe raised evenly. Now tighten center bolts. Torque all 6 bolts down.
Same procedure above for both front and rear subframes. Except disconnect steering from rack for front, and in rear you need to remove the cover on driver side front of subframe. 3 bolts, 10mm, no big deal.
Use the copper grease that comes with the kit. Make sure you put the collars in right side up. Can be difficult to tell one end from other once they are covered in the grease.
I had someone read me the directions and translate. Didn't get a chance to actually write any of it down though. But its not a difficult job at all. An easy diy.
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I disconnected the rack. Its one bolt. No big deal. Just have to mark it before disconnecting, so you can realign to same spot when reconnecting mark both ends of joint with an alignment mark). Also need to make sure you don't turn steering with it disconnected, else the airbag clock spring cable can be damaged. Expensive. Yeah, there is also a cover you have to remove to get to the joint, but again, not a big deal.
To do the install, get car up on stands. Remove wheels. Then you crack all 6 subframe bolts loose. Then leave the 2 center bolts in place, and loosen the 4 corner bolts to ~30mm. Now remove the 2 center bolts, so subframe lowers and rests on 4 corner bolts. Put collars in place in center bolt locations, put bolts back in, hand tighten so bolt heads just touch subframe. Now do one corner at a time. Remove bolt, put in collar, reinstall bolt so bolt head just touchs subframe.
Now tighten the 4 corners, little by little, so subframe raised evenly. Now tighten center bolts. Torque all 6 bolts down.
Same procedure above for both front and rear subframes. Except disconnect steering from rack for front, and in rear you need to remove the cover on driver side front of subframe. 3 bolts, 10mm, no big deal.
Use the copper grease that comes with the kit. Make sure you put the collars in right side up. Can be difficult to tell one end from other once they are covered in the grease.
I had someone read me the directions and translate. Didn't get a chance to actually write any of it down though. But its not a difficult job at all. An easy diy.
To do the install, get car up on stands. Remove wheels. Then you crack all 6 subframe bolts loose. Then leave the 2 center bolts in place, and loosen the 4 corner bolts to ~30mm. Now remove the 2 center bolts, so subframe lowers and rests on 4 corner bolts. Put collars in place in center bolt locations, put bolts back in, hand tighten so bolt heads just touch subframe. Now do one corner at a time. Remove bolt, put in collar, reinstall bolt so bolt head just touchs subframe.
Now tighten the 4 corners, little by little, so subframe raised evenly. Now tighten center bolts. Torque all 6 bolts down.
Same procedure above for both front and rear subframes. Except disconnect steering from rack for front, and in rear you need to remove the cover on driver side front of subframe. 3 bolts, 10mm, no big deal.
Use the copper grease that comes with the kit. Make sure you put the collars in right side up. Can be difficult to tell one end from other once they are covered in the grease.
I had someone read me the directions and translate. Didn't get a chance to actually write any of it down though. But its not a difficult job at all. An easy diy.
wish i saw this reply before, it got installed today by suspension shop.
took 2 hours they reckon, plus alignment. if only i knew about that bolt. i saw a picture of it on the instructions but couldnt make sense of it.
will see tomorrow when i pick it up. thanks for replies everyone!
any damage if the bolt wasnt undone? or would it just pull on it a little?
I feel as if it has enough slack to where you don't need to d/c it unless you want to substantially lower the front subframe.
also report back with a review/first impressions on the mod because there's a lot of mixed feelings on these, did you go with spoon or replica?
also report back with a review/first impressions on the mod because there's a lot of mixed feelings on these, did you go with spoon or replica?
Right, it seems reason to disconnect is more clearance to drop subframe. If you can manage without doing it, shouldn't be a problem. I was just not sure at the time, and instructions said to do it, and it wasn't difficult to do. So I did it. If had to do again I would first try without doing it, see if I had enough clearance.







