I was also going to say the same thing, to go with the Science of Speed one. Best bang for buck IMO. I have mine and never had a single problem.

 

B series throttle bodies are compatible with the S2000. I have ordered one and have a spare intake manifold sitting around and trust me, it mates up and will work fine. Where the hell is Wadzii (Jason) to confirm.

Even if you don't want the throttle body, that site has the Omni TPS.

 

All throttle bodies are going to have a TPS so that the ECU can know where the throttle plate is. Even on a DBW TB, the ECU can't just assume that the throttle was opened to the % it was commanded.

 

I would still go through the TPS testing procedure from the shop manual. How many miles are on it now?

 

BTW, I don't see how a TPS could make the car stall at idle, since the TPS really isn't an important parameter for idling.

 

Interesting, I thought it was a sure fire sign.

http://www.buzzle.com/articles/symptoms-of...ion-sensor.html

 

The S2000's ECU uses MAP much more than TPS to determine fuel and timing. AFAIK, the TPS is just used to determine open / closed loop and to improve throttle response. The article above seems to be about all cars in general with unspecific designs.

 

^ yea that is what I was wondering. I just also thought TPS would be the suspect b/c there are several threads on here of people having the same problems (rough, low, high idle and stalling) once they install a new throttle body and don't adjust the TB properly.

 

Its a 2000 model with 110,000 on the odometer now. I am sure the MAP is the original which, were problematic on the early S. ^ I had read a few of the articles that were discussing the problems with TPS. The car would usually idle at 1000 rpms as long as it wasn't cold out. It then began to fluctuate between 700 and 1000 rpms occasionally dipping below that. I made sure the idle was adjusted and the throttle cable. It still did this occasionally. Later this summer it would drop from the 700 down to 200/300 rpms. A blip or two of the throttle and it would settle back at 1000 rpms. This gradually got worse. It typically occurred at the initial start up for the day. Later it would drop and stall out from idle while sitting at a traffic light. When I pulled the code and it said throttle position sensor, it came to no surprise. But, I plan on checking it more thoroughly when I get back home and pinpoint the cause. I left the car there to avoid any further problems (off at college and don't have tools here to repair if anything did go awry). I feel that it might be a combination of early MAP problem and a faulty TPS. I ordered the Science of Speed throttle body. So I'll have a new MAP and TPS. After I get this resolved, I am sending it with my friend who is an audi mechanic to adjust the valves and inspect the keepers and retainers.

 

FYI, you really have to remove the retainers to inspect them, so you really should just replace them. The cracks can't be seen during a valve adjustment.