Greddy's manifolds almost always crack. Once they crack they are expensive to replace. Because of this, if I ever were to go FI, I would probably go with a supercharger. That said, the torque curve of the Greddy is awfully tempting.

 

Def go FI. Dont spend a ton of money on NA mods and get minimal results.

 

I always laugh at the "totalling" of parts to comparison of N/A to turbo costs on here.

Theres a group of people on here who seem to think that bolt ons don't gain you much, and the OEM system is optimal, and go on to tell you that you should just boost. So you're suggesting that in the realworld an already underperforming system, is supposed to keep up with a 50cfm+ compressor pushing out 10+ psi, and everything to be golden? Talk about bottlenecking

Where to start? Start by deciding what your END goal of your car is. The biggest wasted money on modding cars, is by just throwing parts on, being unsatisfied, flipping them, buying new etc.

Is it your DD? Is it a weekend car? Will it be AutoX'd / Track'd?
Do you want to keep it N/A, Do you want to boost? If you do boost.... are you going for high numbers or are you going for linearity?

In my eyes I see no point on dropping 3g's on a SC/Turbo setup (used at this price) to have it completely bottlenecked. You'll end up buying a TP/HFC and Exhaust regardless, if you stay N/A or S/C then a header regardless or turbo's a log manifold. The only "wasted" bolton is an intake if you go boost.

I'll give you a few hints:

- Regardless of application if you're a #'s/performance chaser you want a 3" exhaust and tp/hfc (state/laws/personal preference depending, i can't stand the tp smell). If you stay N/A this will be loud, there's not really any solid way around this... what will change is depending on the quality of the exhaust the frequency, tone and volume. I'll be blunt when I say this... deal with it, shutup, or don't worry about N/A gains. If you're boosting the 3" will quiet down a LOT.

- If you're N/A stick with a 4-2-1 / Tri-y header, I'll let you pick your poison.
- If you're SC'd stick with a 4-1 header
- If you're turbo'd go log manifold

- If you stay N/A and you're interested in an intake, I'll make this simple. The K&N FiPK is the only one that makes the most sense, especially if you live in CA. The AEM and K&N performance gains are close enough to be considered identical, the K&N will suffer heatsoak at red lights and traffic.... big deal. The AEM isn't worth the chance of hydrolock for nearly the same performance. PWJDM if you're trying to sap every last drop.

Whatever you do, get a Hondata Flashpro, get it tuned.

 

[QUOTE=whiteflash,Jan 4 2011, 03:44 PM] I always laugh at the "totalling" of parts to comparison of N/A to turbo costs on here.

Theres a group of people on here who seem to think that bolt ons don't gain you much, and the OEM system is optimal, and go on to tell you that you should just boost.

 

I was just trying to give an all inclusive answer, to the semi-same vague question that's posted 1-2x a day.

My point was is that when people are "pricing out" N/A setups and turbo setups on a per $ basis it always looks like this:

NA setup: Exhaust/Header/TP-HFC/Intake/Tune = X Dollars
Boost setu = 3G's

But how many people stop their boost setup at that, and leave everything else alone? I'll go ahead and answer that it's a fairly wide spread.

As for the OP's true question: I'd look into the Kraftwerks 6 or 10psi kit as you're going to have an extremely linear powerband (like amplified N/A) without the lag, and it will put you around 315-400whp (PSI depending).

If by the unlucky chance you live in CA like me then your stuck with the comptech, vortech s/c'ers, and greddy turbo. It's kinda like your last pick in elementary dodgeball, they're all going to kinda suck (in comparison) but if you wanna play you gotta put someone on the field. I'd pick the Vortech personally of those three.

 

Some have; many haven't. Greddy replaces them under warranty. Mine's doing great so far. Worst case, if it cracks out of warranty, you pay someone $75 to weld it up or just buy a used manifold from someone else.

Used FI kits start around $2k, depending on miles/condition. I've seen used Greddy kits around $2.5k.

FI For Sale forum:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showforum=227

 

For your goals I would definitely go supercharged! 375-400whp is no problem at all and very reliable.

As for supercharging you're car being pointless without large exhaust etc that is not true.
With turbo you ditch the header of course and get a downpipe. So only thing you can use from na would be the catback. So waste to buy those bolt ons if going turbo.
For supercharged they aren't needed as much at all.
At Evans tuning I put down 343whp with a test pipe, stock header and a HKS dual exhaust at the stock 7 psi pulley. Stock exhaust would give about the same results. So a $40 test pipe is the only real exhaust mod I have.

 

I had SC on other car and sold it to go turbo. I bought s2k to go turbo later, but more I driive I do feel like this car would be more fun with SC.

Take your time and spend your time on forum then pick which way you want to go.

 

How long is the warranty?