MarcusDubya77

So, my idea bombed horribly... It is still loud. The cat has helped some. I am going to try to pick up some Dynomat... My reinspection is Monday. I can only hope at this spot...Hahaha

jackmugen02

Try air filters on the trumpets.

flanders

It needs to be an enclosed box, just a filter on top does nothing sound wise.

MarcusDubya77

Any idea what would cause this? Timing? Lean? Its only at very low throttle input.

flanders

What does the AFR look like when it's happening?
If it looks good it's probably timing related.

MarcusDubya77

I will be doing a log tomorrow, so I can get those numbers. I agree that it might be timing. It could easily involve the fluidampr I put on. There are no real definitive answers for what that timing hash Mark's are, so I went on what I thought made since. It looks like it could use a very slight retardation. It's only at the very lowest of inputs that it happens, and it hasn't effected the way ot drives. Too many issues.. Really sucks.. Have my fingers crossed for reinspection. Only worried about the noise and headlights.. I still fond it super hard to believe they registered a 103db....

MarcusDubya77

I am betting the timing issue is from when I tried using the aem wizard to set 10 degrees. The fluidampr website says the hashes are "TDC. BDC. 7,9,11,15".... However, it looks a lot like the same marks as oem.... I was using the 3rd hash as gauge to 11... I am thinking that it might be 5... Or am I nuts????

MarcusDubya77

Spoke to Fluidampr, and confirmed that their hashes line up with OEM. I have no idea what those numbersa represent on their website. So...my timing has been off about 5 degrees. Should be a quick fix.

MarcusDubya77

FYI for those potentially buying Fluidampr. Do not use their website to gauge the timing marks. They are the same as OE. Car is running a lot better than before. Timing is fixed. Car is plated with winter tires. Tuning continues.

jackmugen02

Same issue with the included manual for the Fluidampr?

- Check the ignition timing marks. Some engines have been equipped with different timing tabs over the years. The engine's tab may not be positioned the same as the one for which Fluidampr is designed.

- Use the positive stop method to locate true Top Dead Center (TDC). Remark or relocate the timing tab as required.

- Finding TDC -Top Dead Center may be found by installing a positive stop on top of the block (if the heads haven't been installed) or by threading a positive stop into the number one spark plug hole. Adjust the stop so that it contacts the piston at 15 to 30 before TDC. Mount a degree wheel to the damper and install a pointer on the block. Carefully rotate the crankshaft by handclockwise until the piston contacts the stop. Be careful as the position approaches TDC-what you want is positive stop, not a hole in the piston. Note the reading on the degree wheel. Then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the piston once again contacts the stop and note the reading again. TDC is located exactly halfway between the two readings (within the area the engine did not rotate). Adjust the pointer as required. If you don't have a degree wheel, mark the damper next to the timing pointer "0" mark at each positive stop. Then divide the distance in half. That is TDC.