nitewing117

I only have some flashpro datalogs to compare it to my stock intake. I picked up horsepower across the board after I adjusted the AFR's a bit.

Daremo

So my concern is that I have an '04, so my tuning options are really limited without shelling out big bucks. Why does that matter? Because I don't want to remove the two hose connections near the TB from the intake I make and have to bypass or disable stuff.

So here's my thought ..... since an aluminum tube is an aluminum tube, I went ahead and got a cheap EBay cold air which is a 3" pipe (measured it when I opened the box the other day) and made sure I got it with the K&N filter instead of the crap you get from the super cheap ones. My plan is to install that and run it as it is while plotting out how to step increase it. My thought is to keep the first section of the EBay pipe with the connectors then go from 3" to 3.5" to 4" along the length of the intake run finishing with an AEM filter (since that seems to be the accepted model that flows the best?).

I don't get the velocity stack/filter combo. Reading around a little bit it seems it is a go/no-go across the boards. Some swear by them, others see no gains at all even with tuning. So my question is, why use it if you are still running a filter over top of it? How does it change any of the flow characteristics?

wadzii

the tubes are connected to the intake just so they suck in clean air. You can put little filters on each and still be ok with stock ecu. The big one feeds the air pump, the little one goes to the valve cover breather.

Velocity stack doesn't have any effect on a long pipe.

Daremo

Sweet! That's good to know!

dan_bourne

will be ordering some 3.5" 90 degree pipe and making one soon i think!

also, i dont know if you guys in the states get them, but itg filters have a built in velocity stack... http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/race/...maxogen-filter

i had one on my supercharged s, im now na and looking for some more power over my fipk, so i think im going to get a few bits cheap : )

shind3

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=89939
Good for anyone who wants to make their own custom intake and doesn't know how to get the 2006+ IAT sensor in the pipe.

alSpeed2k

^I'm thinking about making one, but is that piece essentially a gromet?

shind3

Essentially. But it is specifically meant to seal hydraulically. Most grommets are just there for abrasion resistance.

alSpeed2k

I see, never really thought about that before. How much to send one up to Canada?

shind3

BTW, this is what the 1/4" Uniseal looks like. Keep in mind it is meant for pipe stuff so they talk about pipe ID while we care about OD which is 3/8" and is just about perfect for us. 0.375" while I measured the stock sensor to be about 0.391" or ~10mm.

It requires a 1/2" hole. Drill hole, insert Uniseal, then stuff IAT sensor through. It is really tight and I'll explain below why so. I'm pretty sure this technique will even work on a pipe that sees boost. Let's say the crosssectional area is about 1/2" square which is still probably an overestimate. I pulled with an easy 10lbs of force and wasn't able to pull the sensor out. That translates to 20psi. Anyway, I digress.

You can see the ID of the side you put the sensor in through is fairly large.


But the other side is much narrower since the inside is tapered.

I took these pictures next to those holes in the sheet metal crossbar in front of the radiator so you have a reference scale in case you wanted to compare visually on your car.


This is so when the sensor stuffs through, the bottom part of the seal expands and creates positive retention inside your intake pipe. Kind of like a TIME-SERT if you know how that works.

Anyway, here's a shot of the semi-finished product. Still need to build a rad air deflector for it.