Best NA setup for an AP1
02-29-2012, 08:03 AM
#21
02-29-2012, 07:46 PM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My N.A setup. so far installed berk 70mm HFC, Spoon 70mm Dual exhaust and have noticed gains. Next K&N filter in the standard box attached to a JDM snorkel
from ebay. Brian Crower stage 2 cam and Js racing header. Should make 240hp. Last touch 4.77 gearing.
If im not happy I will Superchage it.
Best of luck
from ebay. Brian Crower stage 2 cam and Js racing header. Should make 240hp. Last touch 4.77 gearing.
If im not happy I will Superchage it.
Best of luck
02-29-2012, 08:35 PM
#25
My N.A setup. so far installed berk 70mm HFC, Spoon 70mm Dual exhaust and have noticed gains. Next K&N filter in the standard box attached to a JDM snorkel
from ebay. Brian Crower stage 2 cam and Js racing header. Should make 240hp. Last touch 4.77 gearing.
If im not happy I will Superchage it.
Best of luck
from ebay. Brian Crower stage 2 cam and Js racing header. Should make 240hp. Last touch 4.77 gearing.
If im not happy I will Superchage it.
Best of luck
08-07-2013, 08:24 AM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love N/A. My goal is to get most pf the F20C engine withut sacrifying driveability. I'm 3-4 times a year on track, so the rest of time I'm cruising and playing around with the car on streets. Ocasionally taking long trips. I like my S2K be be reliable in long term. Many mods (specially cheap, like NOS boost) and tunig makes more HP but shorten lifte of you engine a lot!
So be carefull not "destroing" your car with to many hard core race mods. Also F20C is of ssuper quality and pushed to the limits from factory.
Generally the best tuning is to drop as much weight as possible of your car - lighter exchaust, lighter seats, lighter battery, lighter wheels. You will feel the difference! My total weihgt saving is about 40-50 kg so far without going to extrems.
Right now I have 202 hp at real wheels, withoput any air filter, 198 with air filer on (KN with cold air intake, no cat).
Here is what I've done and my coments:
1. Light weight exchaust and testpipe instead of catalitic converter - a must have, save weight (best N/A mod!), sounds louder
2. Cold air intake 8Pasword JDM, AME, J's racing etc) - a must have, let your engne breath better, sounds better
3. iVtec conversion - this was an experiment (not cheap 3000K USD + installation and tuning) - the result was maximum torque at 3000-3500 rpm (same amount HP and torque)
4. AEM v2 ECU - if you have moded yoru engine it's must have for fine tuning. Also must have for iVtec. ~1300 USD + tuning
5. Header - the OEM header is GREAT, the best you can have. I changed to second hand Toda, no gains at all (comapred on dyno before and after). The only difference was that maximu power was at slightly higher revs now. Waste of money.
6. ITB - will be installed next season (Jenvey). It will be expensive ~1500 USD for the kit + install + a lot of tuning to get it right. Will give faster throttle responce, higher egine sound and some power gain (I expect 10-15 rwhp)
7. Lighter fly wheel (11 lb instead of OEM 14 lb) - I would be carefull here. Sure it will give faster rev response but also faster rev drop, feeling like less torque.
8. E85 convertion and higher compression (planned to next season). Need ECU tuning will be needed. Benefits - lower engine temp. = more durable engine = less risk for failrure, power gain ~10-15 hp.
9. Changing final gear ratio (from 4.1 to 4.44, I won't do it). This is cheap and fast mod, will make your car much quicker! Backdraw - dropped max. speed (~20 mph less), higher revs at cruising speeds, 0-60 mps you will need shift one more time to reach 60 mps (3rd gear).
I know many peole use stroker kits, high revs cams etc. Very little is know about durability of modyfied engines, asume that those engines won't last as long as standard, so be carefully. Making winning race car is one thing (comfort and how long teh engine last is not important), making enjoyable and durable street car is total different thing.
So be carefull not "destroing" your car with to many hard core race mods. Also F20C is of ssuper quality and pushed to the limits from factory.
Generally the best tuning is to drop as much weight as possible of your car - lighter exchaust, lighter seats, lighter battery, lighter wheels. You will feel the difference! My total weihgt saving is about 40-50 kg so far without going to extrems.
Right now I have 202 hp at real wheels, withoput any air filter, 198 with air filer on (KN with cold air intake, no cat).
Here is what I've done and my coments:
1. Light weight exchaust and testpipe instead of catalitic converter - a must have, save weight (best N/A mod!), sounds louder
2. Cold air intake 8Pasword JDM, AME, J's racing etc) - a must have, let your engne breath better, sounds better
3. iVtec conversion - this was an experiment (not cheap 3000K USD + installation and tuning) - the result was maximum torque at 3000-3500 rpm (same amount HP and torque)
4. AEM v2 ECU - if you have moded yoru engine it's must have for fine tuning. Also must have for iVtec. ~1300 USD + tuning
5. Header - the OEM header is GREAT, the best you can have. I changed to second hand Toda, no gains at all (comapred on dyno before and after). The only difference was that maximu power was at slightly higher revs now. Waste of money.
6. ITB - will be installed next season (Jenvey). It will be expensive ~1500 USD for the kit + install + a lot of tuning to get it right. Will give faster throttle responce, higher egine sound and some power gain (I expect 10-15 rwhp)
7. Lighter fly wheel (11 lb instead of OEM 14 lb) - I would be carefull here. Sure it will give faster rev response but also faster rev drop, feeling like less torque.
8. E85 convertion and higher compression (planned to next season). Need ECU tuning will be needed. Benefits - lower engine temp. = more durable engine = less risk for failrure, power gain ~10-15 hp.
9. Changing final gear ratio (from 4.1 to 4.44, I won't do it). This is cheap and fast mod, will make your car much quicker! Backdraw - dropped max. speed (~20 mph less), higher revs at cruising speeds, 0-60 mps you will need shift one more time to reach 60 mps (3rd gear).
I know many peole use stroker kits, high revs cams etc. Very little is know about durability of modyfied engines, asume that those engines won't last as long as standard, so be carefully. Making winning race car is one thing (comfort and how long teh engine last is not important), making enjoyable and durable street car is total different thing.
08-07-2013, 01:12 PM
#27
There is a lot of mis-information in this thread.
Boosted doesn't mean your engine will die any sooner. It all depends on the tune. A good tune is the key. Several guys have been running hundreds of thousands of miles boosted with no issues. Just takes a little more maintanence.
Also, MrPK, I'm only being honest but with the amount of money you spent on your car and only putting down 202 hp at the wheels something seems off in your tune. I don't know if you are in Sweeden or not, so it could be the difference in dynos, but that seems way low. With I-VTEC you might have a huge midrange, IDK without seeing the dyno graph I have no idea. I'm not trying to flame, but that just seems way low.
Along with others, boosting can be had for $3k. I will have about that much in my put together SOT kit. I'll be at around 330-350 hp and 250 ft-lbs throught most RPM range. It is an auto-x set-up.
Boosted doesn't mean your engine will die any sooner. It all depends on the tune. A good tune is the key. Several guys have been running hundreds of thousands of miles boosted with no issues. Just takes a little more maintanence.
Also, MrPK, I'm only being honest but with the amount of money you spent on your car and only putting down 202 hp at the wheels something seems off in your tune. I don't know if you are in Sweeden or not, so it could be the difference in dynos, but that seems way low. With I-VTEC you might have a huge midrange, IDK without seeing the dyno graph I have no idea. I'm not trying to flame, but that just seems way low.
Along with others, boosting can be had for $3k. I will have about that much in my put together SOT kit. I'll be at around 330-350 hp and 250 ft-lbs throught most RPM range. It is an auto-x set-up.
08-07-2013, 04:09 PM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is a lot of mis-information in this thread.
Boosted doesn't mean your engine will die any sooner. It all depends on the tune. A good tune is the key. Several guys have been running hundreds of thousands of miles boosted with no issues. Just takes a little more maintanence.
Also, MrPK, I'm only being honest but with the amount of money you spent on your car and only putting down 202 hp at the wheels something seems off in your tune. I don't know if you are in Sweeden or not, so it could be the difference in dynos, but that seems way low. With I-VTEC you might have a huge midrange, IDK without seeing the dyno graph I have no idea. I'm not trying to flame, but that just seems way low.
Along with others, boosting can be had for $3k. I will have about that much in my put together SOT kit. I'll be at around 330-350 hp and 250 ft-lbs throught most RPM range. It is an auto-x set-up.
Boosted doesn't mean your engine will die any sooner. It all depends on the tune. A good tune is the key. Several guys have been running hundreds of thousands of miles boosted with no issues. Just takes a little more maintanence.
Also, MrPK, I'm only being honest but with the amount of money you spent on your car and only putting down 202 hp at the wheels something seems off in your tune. I don't know if you are in Sweeden or not, so it could be the difference in dynos, but that seems way low. With I-VTEC you might have a huge midrange, IDK without seeing the dyno graph I have no idea. I'm not trying to flame, but that just seems way low.
Along with others, boosting can be had for $3k. I will have about that much in my put together SOT kit. I'll be at around 330-350 hp and 250 ft-lbs throught most RPM range. It is an auto-x set-up.
http://www.garaget.org/?car=233682&image=2884638
As comparison here is dyno before iVtec and Toda header mounted:
http://www.garaget.org/?car=233682&image=2442960
I think there is nothing wrong
I didn't do anything to get real more power yet. The ITB and E85 conversion is not done yet, this is my next step for next season.Right now I have only cold air intake, Toda header (that did nothing at all, dyno compared before/after), testpie and ultra light exhaust. And AEM ECU with tuning.
The car is very quick and feels "alive" compared to many other stock cars I and frieds have tried. The iVtec do not give more power, only added torque to lower RPM. "Massive" is little exaggerated to say
But you can feel the differance for sure.Boost give absolutley most power for the money, no doubt. I just love N/A feeling.
