Cold Air Intake
05-05-2009, 05:00 PM
#22
Registered User
The only reason intakes make power is due to the length of the tube and pressure waves off the valves bouncing back and fourth. I guarantee you bypass valves ruin the HP gain.
05-05-2009, 06:45 PM
#24
Registered User
Look the only way your going to hydrolock is by submerging the intake FULLY in water. The thing is that even for this to happen your going to have to come to a complete stop in a 2 foot puddle. If the streets are that flooded then you shouldn't be driving the car anyway 
.
If you were to drive through a similar puddle without stopping then your still very unlikely to hydrolock the motor. Quick through good, slow or stop in is a bad thing. If you do stop in one then shut the motor off and push it out before turning it back on.
Now the only other issue is water getting in the filter from the top through the engine bay. If you pop open your hood, and follow the inside fender line all the way down getting closer to the lights you will see a small opening, and another a little after that. It's the first opening that allows water to get to the filter. The water gets chaneled through the inside fender to that drain which is located directly above where almost all of the cold air intakes filters rest. You have to tape this hole up to not allow water through. I would go ahead and block off the hole following that one further down as well, although that ones isn't located directly above the filter, but....why not.
There you have it. Perfectly safe, and ready for any rainy day. I had my V2 on the car for 3 years and drove it through some really bad rainy days, puddles, everything you can think of with no issues. Take the necessary precautions, and you should be fine. Most depends on your driving habits too. If you have a cold air and stop in a high puddle knowing dam well your intake is going to go for a swim then you are a crack head and deserve to have your engine hydrolock.
Oh and for those that don't know. If a tiny amount of water does actually get through the entire lenght of the cold air system....it's actually not that bad. A tiny bit of water is actually good for the motor...you just don't want a cup full going in
Drive safe.
Bypass valves are a good protection, but they negate any real gains seen by the system. Essential with it on your motor is drawing in hot air from it as well being inside the engine bay.
.If you were to drive through a similar puddle without stopping then your still very unlikely to hydrolock the motor. Quick through good, slow or stop in is a bad thing. If you do stop in one then shut the motor off and push it out before turning it back on.
Now the only other issue is water getting in the filter from the top through the engine bay. If you pop open your hood, and follow the inside fender line all the way down getting closer to the lights you will see a small opening, and another a little after that. It's the first opening that allows water to get to the filter. The water gets chaneled through the inside fender to that drain which is located directly above where almost all of the cold air intakes filters rest. You have to tape this hole up to not allow water through. I would go ahead and block off the hole following that one further down as well, although that ones isn't located directly above the filter, but....why not.
There you have it. Perfectly safe, and ready for any rainy day. I had my V2 on the car for 3 years and drove it through some really bad rainy days, puddles, everything you can think of with no issues. Take the necessary precautions, and you should be fine. Most depends on your driving habits too. If you have a cold air and stop in a high puddle knowing dam well your intake is going to go for a swim then you are a crack head and deserve to have your engine hydrolock.
Oh and for those that don't know. If a tiny amount of water does actually get through the entire lenght of the cold air system....it's actually not that bad. A tiny bit of water is actually good for the motor...you just don't want a cup full going in
Drive safe.
Bypass valves are a good protection, but they negate any real gains seen by the system. Essential with it on your motor is drawing in hot air from it as well being inside the engine bay.
05-05-2009, 10:50 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by mjb120,May 5 2009, 09:58 PM
this hydrolock thing should be shown in mythbusters so that we can finally have a definite answer lol.
05-05-2009, 10:56 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by HvRRZ,May 5 2009, 10:45 PM
Look the only way your going to hydrolock is by submerging the intake FULLY in water. The thing is that even for this to happen your going to have to come to a complete stop in a 2 foot puddle. If the streets are that flooded then you shouldn't be driving the car anyway .
If you were to drive through a similar puddle without stopping then your still very unlikely to hydrolock the motor. Quick through good, slow or stop in is a bad thing. If you do stop in one then shut the motor off and push it out before turning it back on.
Now the only other issue is water getting in the filter from the top through the engine bay. If you pop open your hood, and follow the inside fender line all the way down getting closer to the lights you will see a small opening, and another a little after that. It's the first opening that allows water to get to the filter. The water gets chaneled through the inside fender to that drain which is located directly above where almost all of the cold air intakes filters rest. You have to tape this hole up to not allow water through. I would go ahead and block off the hole following that one further down as well, although that ones isn't located directly above the filter, but....why not.
There you have it. Perfectly safe, and ready for any rainy day. I had my V2 on the car for 3 years and drove it through some really bad rainy days, puddles, everything you can think of with no issues. Take the necessary precautions, and you should be fine. Most depends on your driving habits too. If you have a cold air and stop in a high puddle knowing dam well your intake is going to go for a swim then you are a crack head and deserve to have your engine hydrolock.
Oh and for those that don't know. If a tiny amount of water does actually get through the entire lenght of the cold air system....it's actually not that bad. A tiny bit of water is actually good for the motor...you just don't want a cup full going in
Drive safe.
Bypass valves are a good protection, but they negate any real gains seen by the system. Essential with it on your motor is drawing in hot air from it as well being inside the engine bay.
.If you were to drive through a similar puddle without stopping then your still very unlikely to hydrolock the motor. Quick through good, slow or stop in is a bad thing. If you do stop in one then shut the motor off and push it out before turning it back on.
Now the only other issue is water getting in the filter from the top through the engine bay. If you pop open your hood, and follow the inside fender line all the way down getting closer to the lights you will see a small opening, and another a little after that. It's the first opening that allows water to get to the filter. The water gets chaneled through the inside fender to that drain which is located directly above where almost all of the cold air intakes filters rest. You have to tape this hole up to not allow water through. I would go ahead and block off the hole following that one further down as well, although that ones isn't located directly above the filter, but....why not.
There you have it. Perfectly safe, and ready for any rainy day. I had my V2 on the car for 3 years and drove it through some really bad rainy days, puddles, everything you can think of with no issues. Take the necessary precautions, and you should be fine. Most depends on your driving habits too. If you have a cold air and stop in a high puddle knowing dam well your intake is going to go for a swim then you are a crack head and deserve to have your engine hydrolock.
Oh and for those that don't know. If a tiny amount of water does actually get through the entire lenght of the cold air system....it's actually not that bad. A tiny bit of water is actually good for the motor...you just don't want a cup full going in
Drive safe.
Bypass valves are a good protection, but they negate any real gains seen by the system. Essential with it on your motor is drawing in hot air from it as well being inside the engine bay.
that was a good response from experience. I too (a stated above) have had cold air intakes and drove threw rain/ car washes/puddles, i remember being told "if your about to go through a puddle on the road, throw it in neutral and coast through" thats what i did and never had a problem. aem v2 is what im lookin and i plan on pluggin the drain holes, maybe even fab up an umbrella (but prefer not to) i would rather not cut through an intake and install a bypass valve, especially if it robs power.
now on the aem v2, what is this extra hole at the bottom that everyone keeps talkin about?? i have seen pics, but what is that for??
05-05-2009, 11:20 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by S20004ME_PDX,May 5 2009, 07:31 AM
Close. It was my old 3.2 CL Type S.
05-05-2009, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by alSpeed2k,May 6 2009, 03:20 AM
Cool, I had a AEM CAI in my TL, didn't have a problem with Hydrolock. Although usually in the winter I would turn it into a short ram b/c mine came in two pieces. During the winter it's cold enough up here that I didn't notice any heat bog.
i think they offered the two in one intake for the dc5 too. havent seen one for an s2k.
05-06-2009, 06:08 AM
#29
Registered User
Originally Posted by 4BANGER,May 5 2009, 11:56 PM
nice that was a good response from experience. I too (a stated above) have had cold air intakes and drove threw rain/ car washes/puddles, i remember being told "if your about to go through a puddle on the road, throw it in neutral and coast through" thats what i did and never had a problem.
aem v2 is what im lookin and i plan on pluggin the drain holes, maybe even fab up an umbrella (but prefer not to) i would rather not cut through an intake and install a bypass valve, especially if it robs power.
now on the aem v2, what is this extra hole at the bottom that everyone keeps talkin about?? i have seen pics, but what is that for??
that was a good response from experience. I too (a stated above) have had cold air intakes and drove threw rain/ car washes/puddles, i remember being told "if your about to go through a puddle on the road, throw it in neutral and coast through" thats what i did and never had a problem. aem v2 is what im lookin and i plan on pluggin the drain holes, maybe even fab up an umbrella (but prefer not to) i would rather not cut through an intake and install a bypass valve, especially if it robs power.
now on the aem v2, what is this extra hole at the bottom that everyone keeps talkin about?? i have seen pics, but what is that for??
05-06-2009, 07:06 AM
#30
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HvRRZ,
I see your point, and completely agree. Though I still would like to see some dyno proofing that the bypass valve indeed cause a loss in power. Because base on my own experience, when we had a dyno day (75 degrees) with the CL type S club, my friend and I came between 1-2 HP of each other on the exact same setup (CAI/CT header/CT exhaust), except I had a bypass valve on my and he didn't. So at that point is when I thought the bypass valve does not rob HP from the engine. At least not anything you can feel.
I think the bottom line is that its up to each individual owner to decide what route is best to go with. If you live in a city/suburbs, then no you don't need it. But if you know your commute will involve going through areas where you might have to drive through 2 feet or more water when it rains, than I think the bypass is a cheap solution that may save you a lot of head aches down the road, especially when people may panic, and don't always think things through clearly about the proper steps you should take when you drive into a big puddle of water.
For what its worth, when I ran my CAI on the CL, it was my first time doing it, so I was some what paranoid as well. I used to check the filter after I driving through heavy rain. I noticed that my filter was completely soaked, but never had any hydro locking issues.
I see your point, and completely agree. Though I still would like to see some dyno proofing that the bypass valve indeed cause a loss in power. Because base on my own experience, when we had a dyno day (75 degrees) with the CL type S club, my friend and I came between 1-2 HP of each other on the exact same setup (CAI/CT header/CT exhaust), except I had a bypass valve on my and he didn't. So at that point is when I thought the bypass valve does not rob HP from the engine. At least not anything you can feel.
I think the bottom line is that its up to each individual owner to decide what route is best to go with. If you live in a city/suburbs, then no you don't need it. But if you know your commute will involve going through areas where you might have to drive through 2 feet or more water when it rains, than I think the bypass is a cheap solution that may save you a lot of head aches down the road, especially when people may panic, and don't always think things through clearly about the proper steps you should take when you drive into a big puddle of water.
For what its worth, when I ran my CAI on the CL, it was my first time doing it, so I was some what paranoid as well. I used to check the filter after I driving through heavy rain. I noticed that my filter was completely soaked, but never had any hydro locking issues.