Here are the mods
2000 with 109k
KIPK with ebay aluminum pipe, BPi velocity stack, K&N filter, AUT plate
Berk coated header
Hytech 3" test-pipe
HKS 75mm



The tuner said that it's right were my power should be for the mods and that I should make great gains with tuning. Calvin made 10 less whp with his AP1 with PRM intake and Skunk2 duals, while a modified B16 made 105whp. These dyno's were all with in an hour of each other. I'll probably put it on the same dyno after I install my AEM EMS and street tune it, to kind of get an idea of the gains.

 

Good luck on the tuning. I'm curious why you chose the Mustang Dyno over a Dynojet? If it were me, I'd go dynojet all the way, just to have a better idea of what is "normal".

 

Thanks. Their was a BBQ/dyno day at the shop, so I went and put her on the dyno for shits and giggles really. Once I'm done street tuning, I'll slap it on this dyno again just to have an idea at the gains from my tuning. I'll eventually put it on a Dynojet to get more realistic numbers.

 

Thats about where you should be on that dyno with your mods and the heat that day It was in the 80s all day.

 

You think it was 80 at noonish?

 

probably not. Im sure you will pick up some power everywhere once you start tunning

 

I should see awesome gains with tuning

 

 

Well, a dynojet and a mustang read power very differently. Mustang dyno's have a set weight and use eddy currents to load them. As to which is more accurate...I've heard many with more knowledge than me say the Mustangs are as they better simulate that the car has actual weight, actual drag, etc (best summary: The mustang is more accurate when you take into account that we live on a planet with gravity called Earth). I do think that dynojets are more comparable to each other, so you do have a point there.

I think the settings used are making yours read lower than it normally would. The Mustangs use the weight and "power at 50" as their settings...I think you'd read a little better if you used 2800 (2809 is the listed stock weight). Heat is also going to play a SIGNIFICANT part in this. I don't know what relevance the "power at 50" really has, but I think that is used to simulate drag (the S2000 is relatively high-drag!). The operator asked for weight; I think in most cases they leave the "power at 50" alone. As to how much variation these settings can really have...I think the answer is not a whole lot, but temp, humidity, and elevation WILL play a part.

As a point of comparison, my MY02's bone stock reading was 191/126 (also Mustang dyno), but at a ~70F temp. Also, what gear are you using? 3rd will read lower than 4th...you want the closest to a 1:1. I also think with your mods, you need a tune...the stock ECU may not be able to adequately compensate for what is likely signifantly more airflow...it may actually be lower than stock peak. You are making more TQ than I did, but your power peak is at a lower RPM.

As another point of comparison...
My last dyno of 306HP/192TQ (at 95F!!) on the same dyno/operator as I had my baseline done was HP@50 = 14 and weight=2750. I don't have the settings for my baseline, but I think they are the same. I gained +115 with a SOS SC and CT Exhaust.

Really, my advice is to pick a dyno and use it. If you do a baseline on a Mustang, do a mod, and then go to a dynojet that reads 50HP higher, you really didn't gain 50HP. I do my pulls on the same dyno so that I know where I am. I may go to a dynojet at some point as I'm curious how good the settings on the Mustang in my area are, though...I think I'd hit 320+ on one of those.

 

^I wondered if my listed weight ect was factored in. I thought it was weird that he put in the 2700. I wonder how much of a difference that would make. After street tuning, I'll be slapping it on the same dyno again to see the gains. Then I'll use a different dyno from now on.