|
NA mods-any gains with no tune
I've been tracking my S2000 for a few years now mostly stock. Its a great platform and I've decided to slowly start modding it for track use. Currently it has a stock intake and exhaust with only with a test pipe added.
So among the changes I'm considering engine bolt ons. Partly for the power but mostly for the weight reduction, especially with the exhaust. I already picked up a FIPK for a good price and theres another local deal on a HKS single. Question is, can I expect to make any power with these mods with no tune? I know any gains will not be significant and I don't expect much on the top end but what about the mid range? I've heard that you can even lose power in some cases(bad intake design) and that would be worst case scenario because I would just rather keep the stock set up in that case. Pic for attention-My S2 in its element https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...3b377afc5a.jpg |
Not really, but if you get the Karcepts tune w/ Greddy EMU or another ECU that will extend the VTEC engagement window (along with the usual dyno tune adjustments) you're going to notice a pretty huge difference over stock.
|
Run a air snorkel to get some fresh cold air to that intake custom or bought, otherwise you are going to be pulling extra hot engine air from elevated track temps and probably lose some power. An open filter isn't really the best option in that location without a way to get some good fresh airflow to it once the car is moving. That said, on its own the single should give you a little more on the top end where the stock tune is richest. What id be concerned with, particularly if you are running an ap2 ecu, is the overly lean condition in the 5500-7500rpm range. When you start doing anything else beyond a TP id strongly advice investing in a wideband so you can make sure you are running not too lean. Its a good investment and will aid in future tuning tool as well. More accurate then a dyno tail sniffer and pays for itself after one typical dyno test.
|
Originally Posted by s2000Junky
(Post 24539325)
Run a air snorkel to get some fresh cold air to that intake custom or bought, otherwise you are going to be pulling extra hot engine air from elevated track temps and probably lose some power. An open filter isn't really the best option in that location without a way to get some good fresh airflow to it once the car is moving. That said, on its own the single should give you a little more on the top end where the stock tune is richest. What id be concerned with, particularly if you are running an ap2 ecu, is the overly lean condition in the 5500-7500rpm range. When you start doing anything else beyond a TP id strongly advice investing in a wideband so you can make sure you are running not too lean. Its a good investment and will aid in future tuning tool as well. More accurate then a dyno tail sniffer and pays for itself after one typical dyno test.
|
Originally Posted by Chibo
(Post 24539294)
Not really, but if you get the Karcepts tune w/ Greddy EMU or another ECU that will extend the VTEC engagement window (along with the usual dyno tune adjustments) you're going to notice a pretty huge difference over stock.
Originally Posted by s2000Junky
(Post 24539325)
Run a air snorkel to get some fresh cold air to that intake custom or bought, otherwise you are going to be pulling extra hot engine air from elevated track temps and probably lose some power. An open filter isn't really the best option in that location without a way to get some good fresh airflow to it once the car is moving. That said, on its own the single should give you a little more on the top end where the stock tune is richest. What id be concerned with, particularly if you are running an ap2 ecu, is the overly lean condition in the 5500-7500rpm range. When you start doing anything else beyond a TP id strongly advice investing in a wideband so you can make sure you are running not too lean. Its a good investment and will aid in future tuning tool as well. More accurate then a dyno tail sniffer and pays for itself after one typical dyno test.
The K&N sits roughly in the same place as the oem intake, I would assume itd get the same air flow that the oem gets over the radiator. All the snorkels I see for sale are some expensive JDM shit and Im not too interested. If I feel that I lose power at speed id just go back to oem but I feel like once its moving it should be fine. I wish I could do a dyno before and after installing these parts to see if any of it is worth it. I should consider doing a ECU but with all the other things I want to change and buy this winter i'm now just tempted to leave the whole engine mod part alone. |
These days most of the "reputable" bolt-ons will make a couple hp here and there (which is far better than 15 years ago, when often as not, aftermarket parts lost power). But the biggest advantage has always been weight savings: together, the OEM header and exhaust are about 75 lbs. You can lose about 50 of those with a good header and a lightweight single. Even with a dual exhaust and retaining the cat, you can save 30-40 lbs.
|
takada intake/70mm throttle body/ported intake manifold took .7 off my quarter mile .2 off my sixty foot and over all made the car way more responsive and brought it to life
i added j's ti RR 70mm and wrapped header untuned and it killed me down low ( added .3 to my sixty foot) but also added +4 miles an hour to my trap speed im going to tune it on haltch 1000 and we will see what happens |
AFR tested with wideband 1/1/2019 13.2:1= 7-9k rpm :cool:
|
MotoIQ I believe did a test like this. The answer is you don't get many gains without a tune.
|
All depends on where your afr lands after the bolt on. Depending on the year, some level of bolt on's give power because they lean out the afrs where factory tune runs rich. There is a point where you can start running too lean and lose power, needing to add more fuel.
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 07:05 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands