Proflow TB, Tapered or straight through
#12
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of the OP Please!!!
With K&N intake, OEM intake manifold, OEM cams, J's header, T1r70 and re-tuned on eManage Ult.
Boring OEM TB or BDL 66mm TB = Better throttle response and under the curve gains or
Boring OEM TB or BDL 66mm TB= waiste of money??
Can people who have actually done either respond only please. I'm looking for solid facts not speculation.
My goal is better throttle response, and mid range gains.
Thanks
J's
With K&N intake, OEM intake manifold, OEM cams, J's header, T1r70 and re-tuned on eManage Ult.
Boring OEM TB or BDL 66mm TB = Better throttle response and under the curve gains or
Boring OEM TB or BDL 66mm TB= waiste of money??
Can people who have actually done either respond only please. I'm looking for solid facts not speculation.
My goal is better throttle response, and mid range gains.
Thanks
J's
#13
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I'm gonna be honest with you man.
Everyone says it's not worth it. Obviously with n/a we're paying lots for 1-2hp. IMO, if you're dedicated to the n/a route, which you seem to be as you tune for your mods, I'd say go with the 66mm tb.
But, I would ditch the K&N intake and pick up something like the comptech or Password JDM. I know it's bucks, but those coupled with the mods you have and a good tune, IMO, could net maybe 8-10hp under the curve. That's pretty significant for n/a modding.
Everyone says it's not worth it. Obviously with n/a we're paying lots for 1-2hp. IMO, if you're dedicated to the n/a route, which you seem to be as you tune for your mods, I'd say go with the 66mm tb.
But, I would ditch the K&N intake and pick up something like the comptech or Password JDM. I know it's bucks, but those coupled with the mods you have and a good tune, IMO, could net maybe 8-10hp under the curve. That's pretty significant for n/a modding.
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If you're serious about making the car faster, focus on packaging together parts that increase the area under the curve...and especially ones that do it within the engine's useable powerband and area of gearing.
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Originally Posted by chimmike,Oct 10 2008, 04:25 PM
I'm gonna be honest with you man.
Everyone says it's not worth it. Obviously with n/a we're paying lots for 1-2hp. IMO, if you're dedicated to the n/a route, which you seem to be as you tune for your mods, I'd say go with the 66mm tb.
But, I would ditch the K&N intake and pick up something like the comptech or Password JDM. I know it's bucks, but those coupled with the mods you have and a good tune, IMO, could net maybe 8-10hp under the curve. That's pretty significant for n/a modding.
Everyone says it's not worth it. Obviously with n/a we're paying lots for 1-2hp. IMO, if you're dedicated to the n/a route, which you seem to be as you tune for your mods, I'd say go with the 66mm tb.
But, I would ditch the K&N intake and pick up something like the comptech or Password JDM. I know it's bucks, but those coupled with the mods you have and a good tune, IMO, could net maybe 8-10hp under the curve. That's pretty significant for n/a modding.
I am actually considering the pw jdm intake.
$1000 everything else, might as well have a $1000 intake , seems to be the curse of the N/A beast.
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Originally Posted by dparm,Oct 10 2008, 05:37 PM
If you're serious about making the car faster, focus on packaging together parts that increase the area under the curve...and especially ones that do it within the engine's useable powerband and area of gearing.
I'm already doing that with my J's header, 70mm single, soon to come pw jdm intake, or tuning with eManage Ult.
Sorry i don't mean to be rude but I've spent months reading on what makes power on this engine and what doesn't.
I'm looking for some advice from people who have personal experience with similar builds to mine since TB's are a very controversial item.
Thanks.
#17
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Despite what everyone says, I am going to order a 70mm and port match my manifold myself and ill let ya know how it goes, until then, no one really has room to talk without back to back dynos.
Isn't the stock size 66mm?
Isn't the stock size 66mm?
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Originally Posted by S2Kage,Oct 11 2008, 12:10 PM
Despite what everyone says, I am going to order a 70mm and port match my manifold myself and ill let ya know how it goes, until then, no one really has room to talk without back to back dynos.
Isn't the stock size 66mm?
Isn't the stock size 66mm?
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Originally Posted by 57udl3y,Oct 11 2008, 01:42 PM
start spending thousands on carbon fiber body parts
Looking for mid range power since that's what we use not peak, and better throttle response.
I'm not dumping money into cf parts I'd rather just take stuff out, but that'll get negated by my Hard Dog roll bar.