6ULR vs CE28?
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From: Morristown, NJ
I love the Wedsports wheels. I think they are the perfect mix of functionality (light weight, strong, good sizes/offsets) and looks. The price is pretty good as well, especially for what you're getting.
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From: Farmingdale, NJ
Originally Posted by VitaRenovatio,Feb 4 2011, 03:25 AM
949Racing 17x9 +48 Wheels with 255/255 NT01 on OEM Suspension
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Originally Posted by Voodoo_S2K,Feb 4 2011, 12:56 AM
Maybe if both were made the same, but the Volk's being forged should be stronger then the cast 949's.
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From: Bay Area, California
Originally Posted by nmrado,Feb 4 2011, 10:18 AM
"Forged aluminum" helps define the material strength. It doesn't tell you much about the wheel strength, which is a function of the material shape and material strength.
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From: Renton, WA
Originally Posted by VitaRenovatio,Feb 3 2011, 11:25 PM
I'm a bit confused. The OP says disregard cost, yet he states that he can't afford bigger sized Volk's because you usually can't find them used. So I guess cost is a factor. So if cost is a factor, you won't find a better deal than Emilio's wheels. If I were you, I'd go with 949Racing 17x10 +52 all around, and run 255/255 non-staggered (with the option to do 275/275 when you want more grip, or 255/275 if you can't deal with the oversteer). I know you're on OEM suspension. So am I. The oversteer on non-stagger isn't bad at all, and not noticeably worse than on staggered setup. The benefit of non-stagger isn't about tire longevity through rotating, it's more grip which gives you better turn-in and braking.
949Racing 17x9 +48 Wheels with 255/255 NT01 on OEM Suspension
949Racing 17x9 +48 Wheels with 255/255 NT01 on OEM Suspension
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From: Savannah, GA, USA
Originally Posted by TerminatioN,Feb 3 2011, 11:57 AM
Uh thanks I guess?
Yeah, RPF1 is definitely a good choice over the RPF1. It's weaker, less wide, and worse offsets all for the same price! Yay! /sarcasm
The only advantage it might have is that it's lighter than the 6ULR, but the CE28s are even lighter than the RPF1s. So if lightest is my goal, RPF1 loses... if widest is my goal, RPF1 STILL loses. I am not buying RPF1s.
Do people not read these days?
Yeah, RPF1 is definitely a good choice over the RPF1. It's weaker, less wide, and worse offsets all for the same price! Yay! /sarcasm
The only advantage it might have is that it's lighter than the 6ULR, but the CE28s are even lighter than the RPF1s. So if lightest is my goal, RPF1 loses... if widest is my goal, RPF1 STILL loses. I am not buying RPF1s.
Do people not read these days?
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From: Las Vegas
the 6ULRs look ok... I find the design of the RPF1s much much better...
BUT, the 6ULRs are pretty inexpensive, give you great fitment with BBK in mind, and were developed with the help of this community... why WOULDN'T you pick them? I mean, beside the look.
Now, the CEs... yeah, they look better than the 6ULRs, but not enough to validate their cost. They are definitely a wheel for hellafail guys so they can brandname drop in parking lots.
Oh, also, the 6ULRs are far better for upgrading. Meaning, if you decide to run a BBK, or even put a wider tire... I'm actually a bit miffed that I went with the 17x9 vs. the 17x10.
Summary:
If you're only interested in the looks, CE28.
If you're interested in everything else, 6ULRs.
BUT, the 6ULRs are pretty inexpensive, give you great fitment with BBK in mind, and were developed with the help of this community... why WOULDN'T you pick them? I mean, beside the look.
Now, the CEs... yeah, they look better than the 6ULRs, but not enough to validate their cost. They are definitely a wheel for hellafail guys so they can brandname drop in parking lots.
Oh, also, the 6ULRs are far better for upgrading. Meaning, if you decide to run a BBK, or even put a wider tire... I'm actually a bit miffed that I went with the 17x9 vs. the 17x10.
Summary:
If you're only interested in the looks, CE28.
If you're interested in everything else, 6ULRs.
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From: Bay Area
Originally Posted by Driven,Feb 4 2011, 11:56 AM
Now, the CEs... yeah, they look better than the 6ULRs, but not enough to validate their cost. They are definitely a wheel for hellafail guys so they can brandname drop in parking lots.
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Originally Posted by tinkfist,Feb 4 2011, 08:44 AM
I am surprised the OEM suspension is not squatting more. I broke too many front endlinks running a similar setup.
Also, my fenders are rolled and slightly pulled, and the rear bumper tabs were relocated. Pretty standard stuff that you can get done for about $100 by anyone with a fender roller.
Basically, in the OP's price range, you're looking at:
5Zigen FN01R-C 17x9 +43 - $800/set, as low as $600/set used
949Racing 6ULR 17x10 +52 or 17x9 +48 - $1000-1200/set
Enkei RPF-1 17x9 +45 - $1000/set, as low as $700/set used (caution when buying used: very weak wheels)
WedSport TC105N 17x9 +49 - $1200-1300/set used ($1600 new)
SSR Type-C 17x9 +55 - $1200/set used (discontinued)
Volk RE/CE 17x9 or 17x10, varying offsets - $1200-$1600+/set used (over $2000 new)
If you're looking for 9" wide, any of these will do, and the 5Zigen wheels are a terrific value, though they're a bit heavy and the offset is fairly aggressive. If you're looking for 10" wide, 949Racing 6ULR is basically your only option, unless you happen to find someone who has used 17x10 Volk in a decent offset (+45 to +55), which I have yet to see for sale in the $1000-$1300 price range (otherwise I would have picked them up myself). My recommendation is to go with 17x10. I'm kicking myself for not ordering the 17x10 instead of the 17x9.