Ok, Asura has answered most of my lame questions regarding the Accusump and oil lines....but I thought I'd post here (soon I'll post the results and pics of the install), but for now....

First of all, I've got to drive up to Reno on Fri., so if I do do the install, it's going to be done late Thursday night. Probably not a good idea to do a major install and then drive 400 miles, race for two days then drive back...

Question #1: Bad idea, good idea to do such an install right before two day event?

Question #2 what's the rule on teflon tape and AN fittings (like the adapter plate male to male fittings)?

Question #3: How do I verify which of the sandwich holes is "In" to the block and which one is "Out" ?

And to verify how the oil circulates....Out from block to remote oil filter, then to the oil cooler, then back to the "in" of the sandwich adapter; and the "T" fitting that connects the accusump is in the line inbetween the oil cooler and the "in" in the sandwich adapter.
Quetion #4: Correct?

Question #5: How much PSI of air should I pump into the accusump?

Question #6: Once it's installed, the proper way to turn the Accusump on would be: insert key in ignition, open valve, start car, drive, shut valve off, turn off car. Correct? Knowing me I'll screw sheat up eventually--what if I turn the car off with the valve open? Is it just as simple as starting the car again (with valve open) and then closing it and then shutting down again?

Question #7: Assuming the oil cooler is mounted in front of the radiator , how are the lines run? Through the plastic shroud and over the metal in front of the radiator? Is there enough clearance?

Thanks in advance.

 

its a crap shoot, its probably ok but a long way from home w/o spares if not. then again a flight is cheap from reno

you shouldn't need tape on the an lines, but you will need it on the npt ones. I've been using teflon paste but the tape works too.

Assuming we have the same one, bottom hole is out, top is in.

My setup: (basicly same as you describe)
engine->filter->oil cooler->check valve->tee->engine. Accusump goes in the T.

Depends on which accusump model. Btw is the accusump used too? If so I'd be sure to make sure you clean them good, I've heard horror stories of used accusumps w/ metal in them.

My startup procedure when cold:
turn key to on->turn on (open) accusump -> wait till oil pressure light goes off -> crank car.
Shut down, I usually close the accusump when I'm on track and at high rpms/pressure. if I forget I'll rev the engine in the paddock to bump the oil pressure up to atleast 60psi then I shut off the switch (close accusump).

And yeah if you turn off the car w/ the valve open its gonna dump its contents into the pan. turn the car back on and let it pump the oil back into the accusump. Tho you should avoid this cuz and extra 2-3 qts of oil in the pan isn't very good.

You didn't get the electric swtich?

-Ry

 

doh, you edited making sure my answers line up.

 

btw a normal oil filter goes from outside in. so the center is the in.

 

Thanks, Ry....yeah I edited to make it easier to respond.

Question #8: In all the plumbing there's one fitting w/a 90deg. bend and one with a bend greater than 90 deg. Will this lower oil pressure dramatically?

Accusump is used, yes...everything is/was. Got it from webestore--not sure who's car it came off of. Would've gotten the electric switch, but $$$ and time dictated I pass up on it for now.

And what's the difference between NPT and other fittings? Basically anything that isn't AN to AN (like the sandwich plate), correct?

With all the other shit I need to do to my car I'm thinking of bagging this project till I can do it and not be rushed....took forever btw to clean out all the firecharger gunk out of these lines. (It went off in shipping and none of the lines were capped).

 

That would be karners old sump then. I have some 90s, each one does reduce psi some but as long as you don't use a ton of them they'll be fine.

Yeah the sandwich plate will likely have a 1/2"NPT threads.

 

In my (actually Davepk's) setup, the filter comes after the cooler. For accusump installation and operation, go to their site ( http://www.accusump.com/ ) and to the first document under tech menu.

I wouldn't rush this install. Though I didn't install mine, I've done enough maintenance/troubleshooting that I expect you will run into mounting and routing decisions and possibly troubleshooting after installation.

 

Dont do it the night before an event. Especially one you have to travel a fair distance to get to.

The install will be more involved than you might imagine, requiring parts you have not yet purchased.

Consider yourself warned.

 

yeah the probelm with that tho is you risk getting metal (stuck) into the cooler. Ideally it shouldn't matter, till your bearings start to go.

I believe Dave did that because it was better for line routing in his case.

 

Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance. Dont do this before anything major. Install it and sort out any leaks before you test it at full bore.

You need that sandwich plate and 1/2" NPT to AN-10 male to male adapter fittings.