A friend of mine fabricated these for me...

I probably wont be installing these anytime soon, cause I'm still deciding on the proper damper setup to go with.


let me know what you guys think, he was curious to see if any other s2k peeps would be interested.

he is in the process of fabricating a adjustable front upper control arm also.


I will provide a thorough detailed specification of materials used when i see him on monday...

 

are these rear uppers?

 

Yes these are the rear upper control arms,


he is currently working on the front upper control arms.

 

I'm in for more info.

 

What kind of tubing did he use? What is the weight difference from the OE arm?

 

FWIW, TC Designs already sells adjustible front upper control arms. No reason someone else can't also do it, of course.

 

I'm interested in hearing more.......I have some questions about durability / reliability though.

 

That design puts the rod end in bending under braking, that's scary.

If you move the rod ends to the inside you can adjust both caster and camber too, and avoid most of the bending loads.

 

That's what I was thinking! I have seen some close calls with setups like that and I have seen sudden failures also.

 

That is so not true. The bending loads are still there even on the inside threads. That is why I dont like to use rod ends for inside mounting points.

Sorry to bring this post back up, I havent been here in a long time but was just looking around since I had some time. I was the one who made these arms and the information you guys are getting or sending to each other is not very accurate. When your talking about the adjuster coming loose, you must be refering to this post, https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=612854

My design is very different then that design. I use sepherical joints for the inner mounting points, mainly because adjusting them, expecially in the rear, will mess up more things then it will help. Yeah, I can see in the front they may be usefull to adjust for maybe a small few of you trying different castor settings, the majority of people installing them will not have them correct so I'd rather not give you the option to mess up on the install. You still have the factory adjustment of the lowers to adjust to your correct settings.

Next is the outter joint. You probably cant tell in the pictures and I cant really tell what size joint they used (1/2 or 5/8). I made the upper control arms for the RSR s2k with 5/8 rod ends and found the same problem of the rod end running out of travel. Luckly with that car we had a limited amount of travel since the car was so low and didnt get into a bind situation where it would fail the joint or mounting. Even after crashing that car several times my arms where probably the only suspension parts that never got damaged or replaced on the car.

So to fix the limited travel issue, I've finally found the perfect ball joint that gives double the range of motion as the rod end, plus the thread size is larger at 3/4, so the mounting is stronger then the rod end. On the original arms, I used an adjuster on the end so you wouldnt have to take off the joint inorder to lengthen the arm. I could do that as well with these arms but did not because of cost. The adjusters add a significant price increase in the arms. Generally the upper arms are not what your going to use for your final settings, you still use your factory adjusters. The uppers are there so you can get to the range you need for the factory adjusters.

Any other questions I'd be happy to discuss. I really dont know if I'll make more of these cause I just dont have the time right now.